So I'm finalizing my front end, and was about to pound in my ARP 100-7708 12mm x 1.50 late model GM wheel lugs, when I noticed that the teeth are different. I somehow managed to count the tiny teeth and found that the OEM lug studs have bout 10 more teeth than the aftermarket ARP studs. See attached photo. Am I just supposed to smash these bastards in? I'm not usually one to do cave man **** like that, but as this is my first time changing wheel studs, I'm not sure if this is the correct thing to do or not. Please advise!!!!!

 

Don't pound them in. Go get a few new open lug nuts from the auto parts store and several thick washers. Grease 2 washers up and a put them on the stud. Put the lug nut on the stud backwards (taper up), and put grease where the lug nut will touch the washers, as well as on the threads of the stud where the lug nut will be. Finger tighten it up then tighten it down with a ratchet or wrench. The stud will pull through and cut proper splines.

Before you start torquing the studs down you'll feel the splines "catch". Line them up like that and tighten the lug nut finger tight, then go for it.

Are you running those 2.5 inch studs all around? Be aware that they will not stick out as far in the front as they do in the back and those 2.5 inch studs are only about 1/2" longer than stock.. I run the 3.25 studs in front part number 100-7713. They are oppressively expensive, but are pretty close to even front to back.

 

use a large conical nut that slips loosely over the threads and an open ended wheel lug. tighten it down until it is cinched against the hub.

you don't pound in wheel studs.

edit: LOF beat me to it.

 

Ok but you guys are missing the point. The tooth count is wrong on the ARP studs. WTF. I've read a lot of people use the late model gm studs, 100-7708. But after some research it looks like I need 100-7703 ford studs? How could so many people say they work perfectly when the teeth don't line up? Something doesn't make sense.

OEM = 36 Teeth

ARP 100-7708 = 28 Teeth

WTF.

 

the teeth don't matter, is what we alluded to. as long as the diameter of the teeth is relatively the same as the stockers the new studs will make their own home.

the only reason they even press in is to make removing and installing your wheels easier, otherwise their job is done.

 

Understood.

Do you know of any extended studs that don't "cut their own groove"?

 

Don't worry about it. The ones you have work perfectly. The only thing you need to know is that if you break a stud, you need to replace it with another ARP stud.

 

Don't make this more expensive and complicated than it needs to be.

Just use some grease, go slow and the studs will go in perfectly.

 

Cool thanks for the help. I think I'll pick up the longer ones for the front.

 

It really helps if you want to run any kind of spacer up front, but $70 for studs sucks . They last forever though.

 

I tend to spend money very irresponsibly on this car. Just got some on amazon prime with free 1 day shipping for 70 out the door. Be here tomorrow.

Stupid question, its probably much easier to use a press, correct? Just wondering because I do have access to one.

 

Also, all lug studs "cut their own groove" from the factory. The holes are drilled round and the splines are simply there to keep the stud from turning as you tighten the bolts.

When I installed extended studs in my Dodge, I used Ford Taurus studs and not ARP studs, because the ARP units were obnoxiously expensive. Since you already have them, do what the others have stated. I never saw the benefit of the expensive ARP studs, when you can find factory studs in the proper extended length and such. In my experience, I have yet to see a stud fail that was from something other than the lug nuts not being tight, or the client drives into a curb at 40 mph. Studs that break on removal or get cross threaded is a different story.

I use one of these at work when I replace studs.


It has a nice little bearing inside and I slip a large washer under the installer as well. The bottom of my installer (which is well used and old) tends to gall hub faces, so the washer prevents that.


Last thing, I know it's late now, but you can get studs in almost any spline diameter and just drill your hubs to the proper stud diameter for a press fit and put them in. I had to drill the rear hubs out on my Dodge to fit the Taurus studs. There are some racing bodies that require 1/2" minimum diameter studs, so drilling out the hubs is really the only option at that point. I've had the Taurus studs installed for close to 50k with zero issues.

 

Ya you can use a press..(actually saw studs being pressed in on the "tube" just recently..haha!..freaky..coincidence?..hmmm!)
Or you can just buy a couple conical open end nuts(spares) and zip the old impact on them and yer done!

 

Lug nuts and washers it is! Thanks for the help everybody. Truley appreciated.

 

Not that I wouldn't use the ones that are a different count spline, there are some issues this to think about.

To add to what ACR said about the factory ones. The new stud may want to drift to the side where most sorta line up and may end up actually cutting off full or near full peaks from the old stud somewhere else. To a certain degree removing metal for gripping and not being as centered in the hole.

I believe the courser ones will cut deeper negating some (depends how much deeper) of this but some of it will be going on Check with a caliper if you have one). I don't think you could do this more than a few times before you had problems (unless back and for from stock to ARP) and then needed to upsize the stud. I'm a machinist and I think about these things, I can't help it.

Just a heads up.

 

Yeah I work in Metrology. I was thinking the same thing. I think as long as the head ends up being flat against the back of the hub, the difference in position shouldnt make too much of a difference. But I suppose with the longer studs, a small angle coming out of the hub could translate to a lot at the end of the stud. Worse comes to worse ill go to the junk yard and pull another hub.

Ill try to center it the best i can before torquing it down.

 

I don't think it would be a big issue except say, you wanted to change studs again and they had an even different spline count. At some time the hole will be screwed up if one did this over and over.

One shot change, you shouldn't have a problem.

 

Yep once you switch to ARP, only replace with ARP.

 

Probably will never replace. Swapping to run 10mm spacers for Z32 wheels.

 

Good thing you got the longer ones for the front then. I run 7mm spacers on the front of my car.

 

The short studs should work me thinks. Theyre more than 10mm longer than OEM. I just like the look of the longer studs.

 

be glad you don't live out here then, eventually you'd just be looking at rusty ugly stubs.

 

Easy peasy.

 

Nice work!

 

Thanks!