DoriftWolf

My S4 TII started acting wierdly the other day. She needs some work, but I was driving her anyways. I'm new to rotaries so I'm finding troubleshooting to ba a little more difficult than the piston engines I've had.

Symptoms:
1) Very laggy off boost, but accelerates quickly once the turbo is spinning. The car seems to bog if you go WOT and then picks up if you back off partly and get on it again.

2) Gas smell in oil. I've changed my oil twice in the last 1000 miles.

3) Brake warning light light came on (the one in the ABS position, that says Stop and has a pic of a light, my car doesn't have ABS) I was sitting at a drive thru a night with my headlights on and my foot on the brake. I noticed my lights were getting dimmer as well. Radio and heater were off, but it was Zaxby's so I was there for about 15-20 mins at idle. Engine started to run roughly too. I've noticed before on a test run before it got too dark, that the car doesn't run so good with the headlights on.

4) Since #3 when I start up the car, it doesn't cold start, even after the car's not been running for a while. Did it this morning, at lunch, and after work, it was a cold night and I worked late so it should've done the old 3K thing for both of those starts.

5) Gas milage is horrible. I burned about half a tank in about 50 miles.

I've only had the car for a month, so I'm still getting used to it. If anyone recognizes these symtoms, I'd be glad of some help.

I'm thinking the alternator is going weak, but I don't have a tester here at home, and our shop is a pretty lengthy drive if there's something more serious going on here.

And my last question: What does a rotary sound/act like when the bearings are going? Does it knock like the mains in a piston engine??? I'm no stranger to knock, I've unfortunately blown 3 SR20DET's in my 180SX, and I'd kinda like to know if the engine knocks the same way or makes different sounds. I'd like to try to save it for a rebuild if that's the problem.

Thanks
Derek

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Most of you questions are addressed in the FAQ's, but here's a few things to try.

#1. do a compression test
#2. Make sure the thermosensor is plugged in- green plug on back of coolant neck-
#3. Adjust your tps according to FSM
#4. check for a clogged CATYLITIC CONVERTER-
#5. Oil in gas means too much fuel getting into the chamber via leaky injector most likely...
#6. change out your plugs and wires
#7. change out you fuel filters/ one on pump too....
Start there and come back and let us know.

DoriftWolf

Yeah, I've been throught them a few times... I was looking for some feedback more than anything else. I've been second and third guessing myself over these issues. Before I spent another big amount of money, I thought I would get some human feedback to narrow down my search.

Things I've done so far.
1) New battery.
2) New terminals
3) New NGK Spark Plug wires.
4) According to the previous The plugs were put in about 1000 miles before I bought the car, and I've maybe put 2500 miles on it since them.

Engine has been running strong, ran a 14.5 at the track a week and a half ago running street tire pressure, so I'm assuming that the turbo and compression were still good at that point. The car has 145K miles and everything is still original including the engine.

I just bought new brake rotors, pads, stainless lines, an ACT clutch, a Mazdaspeed ground kit, and suspension. so I'm pretty strapped for money to put into the car, so I would rather not go at this randomly if I can help it.

My partner specializes in piston engines, and my decision to go with a rotary was in part to help us both get more familier with them. However with his work load being what it is, he's pretty much given me the "well it was your idea to go with a rotary, you need to figure it out for yourself" approach. Unfortunately, I lack a lot of practical mechanical experience, so it's been very frustrating at times. I had hoped to learn a little more gradually and concentrate on the tuning aspects a little more

Thanks for your suggestions and input... they are very much appreciated.

Derek

DoriftWolf

Definately not the thermosensor being disconnected... I unplugged it and plugged it back in when I was home at lunch. Still idling low, no cold start, and a seriously gassy smell when she was running in my garage. I could smell it under the hood when I was working (the garage door was open)

If I hit the throttle slightly when I was under the hood then backed off it would struggle a little bit, and die sometimes.

We are going to run the TPS voltage test tonight and adjust if necessary. We are also going to test the alternator. I'm wondering if the spark just isn't strong enough until it reaches higher revs and spins the alternator fast enough.