What's up guys? I just got back from overseas and am looking to put some more money into my car. I have Buddy Club Buzz Spec coilovers, but no camber adjustability. The rear wheels have excessive camber, and the front have none. My question is can I get any brand of pillow ball mount to work for the front? IE Tein. What can I do to straighten out the rear wheels? The car feels horrible right now and I'm trying to get back into drifting. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Yes....Cusco makes a great set as well as Tein. I believe there are a couple Cusco sets on ebay. Search for FC3S. The rear wheels can only really be adjusted by buying some rear camber links. Try MazdaTrix.com ( http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm ) The red rear camber link is currently on backorder, as I am purchasing one as well.

 

Don't the fronts already have adjustable pillow ball mounts? When I was looking at the Buddy Club coilovers they had adjustable fornt pillow ball mounts and non-adjustable rear mounts. You should be able to add negative camber to the front by adjusting the pillow ball mounts in front. I used AWR racing camber links in the rear with my coilovers. I am currently running -2 degrees in front and rear because that is all of the camber that can be adjusted out of the rear.

http://www.awrracing.com/awr.html

 

Unfortunately, the ones I have utilize the stock rubber upper mount. What is the optimal DRIFT camber set up for front and rear? I was under the impression -2 was good for the front and 0 for the rear. Is there any way to make my rear wheels straight again? I'm running 235/45/17 in the rear and 225/45/17 in the front.

 

To really get a handle on your rear... you should replace the trailing arm bushings, the diff mount, sway bar mounts, and put some rear steer eliminator bushings in it.. Most guys hate the Rear Steer anyway cause it gives the car an ***-happy feel if your not used to it.. ESPECIALLY if they are worn out.

Toe is adjusted up at the trailing arm mount by turning the indexed cam bolt (have to look up between the trailing arm and the body to see it) AWR has a good replacement bushing for this.. if the bushings are worn... it won't hold adjustment.

There are two options for camber.. One is the adjustable center link that does both wheels at once. the other is the adjustable toe links that does each individually.. I went with the single bar.. cheaper, and less BS to muck about with.

Changing the 15+ year old diff mount will help with wheel hop and general rear end sloppyness.

 

Thanks for the helpful information, but what should the camber (in degrees) be set at for front and rear?