Any one you know make test pipes for FC's?
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Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Any one you know make test pipes for FC's?
hey guys, do you know anyone that makes test pipes for our cars. one more question, my car had a RB 3'' turbo back exhaust. I have one question, is the DP included with the kit the same length as the stock DP? I need a test pipe to bolt in between the 2. thanks -alex
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WingmaN
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Damn, I missed that word "turbo" in the original post My bad. The best way to do the pipe is to get flanges (even cutting them off old components is fine because they are always in better shape than the rest of the component)
Unless you have a bender, a mig, and a good way to get the car up enough to be comfortable under it then you need to take it to a good exhaust shop.
If you do have all the above you want to bolt the flanges in place and bend/cut the pipe to fit.
You want to tack weld the pipe at 3 points per flange as equally spaced as possible.
Unbolt the flanges and pull the pipe so you can make the weld in a flat position.
If you don't have it tacked good or gaps between the tube and the flange they will usually draw up more on one side and when you try to bolt it back up it will not be flush.
The easiest way to make one in a shop that you cannot get the car in and/or up in the air is to take the piece that you want to copy as a straight pipe and make a simple jig with it. You can bolt the component to two pieces of flat bar or angle iron and then weld those to a makeshift fixture. Unbolt the component and bolt in some flanges. From there it is the same as working it under the car except you can do the weldout in place while the pipe is still in the jig.
The cool thing with the jig is that you can knock off extras and sell them
Unless you have a bender, a mig, and a good way to get the car up enough to be comfortable under it then you need to take it to a good exhaust shop.
If you do have all the above you want to bolt the flanges in place and bend/cut the pipe to fit.
You want to tack weld the pipe at 3 points per flange as equally spaced as possible.
Unbolt the flanges and pull the pipe so you can make the weld in a flat position.
If you don't have it tacked good or gaps between the tube and the flange they will usually draw up more on one side and when you try to bolt it back up it will not be flush.
The easiest way to make one in a shop that you cannot get the car in and/or up in the air is to take the piece that you want to copy as a straight pipe and make a simple jig with it. You can bolt the component to two pieces of flat bar or angle iron and then weld those to a makeshift fixture. Unbolt the component and bolt in some flanges. From there it is the same as working it under the car except you can do the weldout in place while the pipe is still in the jig.
The cool thing with the jig is that you can knock off extras and sell them