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another threat to the books....important

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Old 12-20-01, 12:27 AM
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another threat to the books....important

intake air thermosensor (engine) code 11
port air solenoid valve code 33



what is the deal with this parts how they go bad and the fuctionality of them ???? please be kind of specific .

as you guys know my car has been backfiring so i decided to pull codes and came up with this 2 codes

can you explain how this parts work and what makes the go bad? and where the location of them are in the engine?? a pic with arraow will do the tric hehe
Old 12-20-01, 12:41 AM
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burp it
Old 12-20-01, 12:59 AM
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the intake air thermosensor is in the intake path. on mine I think it is oin the lower chamber just behind the throttle body ( the part that says
" 13B" It goes bad just like other electrinc components. corosion dirt. or for no reason at all. they are not hard to replace I think it is just a 10 mm wrench and it is jsut below the BAC valve I beleive.
The other I am not sure.
there are several things like this on our cars and which one is called that I don't know. there are ones with electrical connections and without.
Old 12-20-01, 12:59 AM
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Re: another threat to the books....important

Originally posted by prmazdarx7
intake air thermosensor (engine) code 11
port air solenoid valve code 33



what is the deal with this parts how they go bad and the fuctionality of them ???? please be kind of specific .

as you guys know my car has been backfiring so i decided to pull codes and came up with this 2 codes

can you explain how this parts work and what makes the go bad? and where the location of them are in the engine?? a pic with arraow will do the tric hehe
i have a code 32 on my T2.....i'm guess its somewhat different than 33, but it still lists it as a solenoid valve.....i "think" its something to do with the BAC valve...not sure...

mazdaspeed7 said he also had 32 for a while....but it was no biggie...
Old 12-20-01, 10:36 AM
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anyone else with more sudgestions??????
i really need to know where those parts are located pics will help greatly
and the fuction of thgese parts
Old 12-20-01, 10:41 AM
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If it was a turbo , then the air intake temp sensor would be the one int he airflow meter or the stand-alone sensor on the throttle body "cap" under the intercooler.

The port air solenoid valve is inside the ACV (I think).&nbsp This controls emissions and would help surpress backfires in working correctly.




-Ted
Old 12-20-01, 04:16 PM
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I've gotten the air intake temp sensor code and the only reason it went off is the two prongs on the sensor were not holding the plug on. Its on the left side of the *dynamic chamber*. Small sensor with a two wire plug. The port air solenoid is on the acv. Should be the forward plug of the two plugs on the acv. The rear plug is the split air solenoid. Make sure its on good, then check for the code again. There is a checkout for the port air solenoid in the 88 manual. Put a meter on the (BR) TERMINAL AND GROUND WITH THE PLUG STILL HOOKED TO THE SOLENOID. START THE ENGINE AND RUN AT IDLE. METER SHOULD READ 2.5V. NOTE THAT THIS SENSOR SHOULD READ 2.5V AFTER THE CAR HAS ACCUMULATE 20,000 MILES. YOUR CAR SHOULD MEET THIS SPEC. IF LESS THAN 20,000 MILES TAKE THE PLUG OFF THE TPS. READING SHOULD NOW BE 12V IF YOU CAR HAS LESS THAN 20,000 MILES. If the above does not work make sure the other wire has 12v on it. EDIT: Picture of air temp on 88 http://www.rhichome.bnl.gov/People/shrey/images/bac.jpg

Last edited by HAILERS; 12-20-01 at 05:03 PM.
Old 12-20-01, 04:44 PM
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hey so it makes sinse that the acv is what i need to replace my car has been backfiring alot so acv you out the door hehe thanks for the replies
Old 12-21-01, 12:06 AM
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Hold it, hold it! Let's not get carried away here! First of all, those darn ACV's are expensive! Secondly, a bad port air solenoid valve will NOT, I repeat NOT, cause backfire. Yes, the Anti-Afterburn valve is in the ACV, and if it is bad, it will cause this problem. However, this valve is a completely mechanical valve - the ECU does not even know about it! It is actuated by high manifold vacuum. There are 2 holes on the back of the ACV near the top. The valve itself is the big one on the top. To test it, you need to remove the ACV, since there are no external hoses to gain access to the valve. I personally took apart the ACV and checked the diaphram by trying to move the valve shaft - it wouldn't budge, so I replaced the valve.

By the way, this port solenoid is nothing but a bleed, it supplies a little bit of air to the exhaust ports when the switching valve is supplying air to the catalytic converter. Also, it screws into the ACV - if one were available, you could purchase it and replace it without replacing the whole ACV! Hey, I'll sell ya my solenoid from my old ACV, if you want it! IMHO, it is not really all that important, nor will it cause any problems if it doesn't work. That's my $.02!

Irv, Keith's dad

Last edited by Keith; 12-21-01 at 12:09 AM.
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