Another lame engine won't start thread. But please help
#27
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Man that rain is coming down, gotta do it after it stops!!
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 04-01-12 at 09:08 PM.
#29
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I have the rats nest removed while keeping the dashpot, thermowax, thermovalve, bac, asv, twin scroll, and the acceleration diaphragm.
I removed the OMP, ABV, PCV, and all solenoid except twin scroll.
Do you know if there is a way to install the pressure regulator solenoid valve without reinstalling the entire rats nest? I'm considering reinstall all of the solenoid, purge control valve that was there to help with idle and start. However looking at the diagram I'm not too sure if there is a way to install it while bypassing Air pump, ACV..etc
Another problem is that I frequently hear the engine either advance or retard (not sure which) its ignition timing and cause the spark to fire when the rotor is at exhaust phase, which leads to loud clicking sound from exhaust making it sound almost like a exhaust leak. This happens usually when the engine is hot, but it almost occurs all the time when the car is operational. I was wondering what could've caused the ECU to trigger the mode that retard or advance timing?
And thanks a lot for the help!
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 04-02-12 at 12:34 AM.
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The car never ran fine, although it didn't have problem when starting hot, it did have the timing issue and runs lean. I got the car with removed emission and rats nest, all idle assist blocked off, throttle body modified, dashpot removed, secondary butterfly removed, and thermowax removed. I swapped a complete engine with everything original and removed the rats nest while keeping some of the modules and rerouted the vacuum. Now the car has problem starting hot, and has rough idle when hot while starts fine and idles smooth when cold.
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 04-02-12 at 02:21 AM.
#34
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Ok, so no suction to the FPR, let it be a vacuum leak when hot or something malfunctioning (water thermosensor) will cause the fuel pressure to go up, or the wrong fuel type selected (btw I didn't know there are different fuel type within the same fuel tank) and making the car harder to start when hot.
And when the fuel pressure go up, does the engine floods? or less fuel is getting to the engine and make engine run lean? Because the car also idles rough and runs lean when hot.
And when the fuel pressure go up, does the engine floods? or less fuel is getting to the engine and make engine run lean? Because the car also idles rough and runs lean when hot.
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 04-02-12 at 02:36 AM.
#36
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Thanks
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Did you ever check the compression on both rotors as was mentioned earlier? I just got through pulling a motor that was running on 1 rotor and it sounds a lot like mine did (granted mine was an NA). Mine wouldn't idle below 1000 RPM and it ran a lot better if I advanced the timing a little bit. i didn't even need to check compression, i just got it running and pulled the spark plug on one rotor and it almost died, then put it back on and it ran the same, pulled the other one off and it didn't make any difference. Then I pulled the spark plug and started it while someone had their finger over the hole, and there was nothing on that rotor. It's worth checking so you don't drive yourself crazy like I was looking for something else that's causing the problem. That motor was also pulled from a running car according to the guy I bought it from (and it did run, just only on 1 rotor). Good luck!
#39
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I was having similar hot start issues with my last engine before it finally blew. My coolant seals were blown and my injectors were stuck wide open. But it had the same trouble starting anytime and usually wouldn't start hot. My new engine is having similar issues to your issues at the beginning of the thread where it will turn over but not start, and when mine does start it dies instantly after revving to 3000rpm. all of this lasts for about 1-2 seconds and it takes forever cranking it to get it to do even that.
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