another clutch thread- ehh why?
09-16-05, 11:20 AM
#1
_
Thread Starter
another clutch thread- ehh why?
well, Before you all balk.
I just wanted to get some general thoughts on clutches.
I have a fully stock car, and it seem that most clutches that are not bottom of the barrel will wreak havoc on my drivetrain,
I really don't want to replace my tranny because I put too hard a clutch in.
I'm not even thinking any puck or racing clutch, just the ACT and CF ones. IT seems like mosty people put better clutches in to get better grip and less slip.
That's fine and all, but I have to have this car last, not be fast....lol
So what I'm looking for is people experinces with stock clutches...
and really how long should your clutch last?
I've read anywhere from 30,000 mi to 2x that.
Mine was replaced(with a stocker) about 40,000mi ago, and it cost $700(rip off?)
I can get it replaced with a stock one from my local parts stores for around $450 or so, or I can get the ACT for $300.
My concern is that this ACT clutch is gonna grip so much harder, that it's gonna screw the rest of everything up. And everything seems to be in great condition, with fluids regularly changed, regular maint. etc.
maybe I'm being over-cautious, but if the cheaper clutch wears less on all the other parts, is that a good idea for long term reliability?
Or is the 'cheaper' ACT of CF clutch gonna cost me more in the long run(IE: all other drivetrain wear?)
Yeah, I know, kinda lame post. But I need this car to be reliable, and don't tell me to get a kia or honda.
And yes I did search
and search
and search.
found lots of good info re: brand opinions, replacing tips etc, but very little about clutch reliability.(but I only went 11 pages into the threads and the 3 archived pages....LOL
Anyhow, any suggestions and/or advice??
|M|
anyone in FL got a good used clutch laying around? or is this an even worse idea?
I just wanted to get some general thoughts on clutches.
I have a fully stock car, and it seem that most clutches that are not bottom of the barrel will wreak havoc on my drivetrain,
I really don't want to replace my tranny because I put too hard a clutch in.
I'm not even thinking any puck or racing clutch, just the ACT and CF ones. IT seems like mosty people put better clutches in to get better grip and less slip.
That's fine and all, but I have to have this car last, not be fast....lol
So what I'm looking for is people experinces with stock clutches...
and really how long should your clutch last?
I've read anywhere from 30,000 mi to 2x that.
Mine was replaced(with a stocker) about 40,000mi ago, and it cost $700(rip off?)
I can get it replaced with a stock one from my local parts stores for around $450 or so, or I can get the ACT for $300.
My concern is that this ACT clutch is gonna grip so much harder, that it's gonna screw the rest of everything up. And everything seems to be in great condition, with fluids regularly changed, regular maint. etc.
maybe I'm being over-cautious, but if the cheaper clutch wears less on all the other parts, is that a good idea for long term reliability?
Or is the 'cheaper' ACT of CF clutch gonna cost me more in the long run(IE: all other drivetrain wear?)
Yeah, I know, kinda lame post. But I need this car to be reliable, and don't tell me to get a kia or honda.
And yes I did search
and search
and search.
found lots of good info re: brand opinions, replacing tips etc, but very little about clutch reliability.(but I only went 11 pages into the threads and the 3 archived pages....LOL
Anyhow, any suggestions and/or advice??
|M|
anyone in FL got a good used clutch laying around? or is this an even worse idea?
09-16-05, 12:15 PM
#2
Lives on the Forum
Stick with organic, full-faced sprung hub clutch discs.
It's the unsprung hub or copper pucks clutch discs that tend to kill transmissions.
ACT makes great clutches, period.
Another alternative is Racing Beat.
Exedy is a Japan brand that started to offer aftermarket clutches after doing OEM for a long time now...
-Ted
It's the unsprung hub or copper pucks clutch discs that tend to kill transmissions.
ACT makes great clutches, period.
Another alternative is Racing Beat.
Exedy is a Japan brand that started to offer aftermarket clutches after doing OEM for a long time now...
-Ted
09-19-05, 09:18 PM
#3
_
Thread Starter
Well, after all, MAZDA PARTS ARE CHEAP!!
well, like anyone cares anyways....
I called all around and looked online for a clutch kit at a somewhat decent price(IE cheap)
MY mechanic(who has been good to me and my family and friends- many times just tells me it's something simple and tells.shows me how to fix it myself-they've even let me borrow special tools!) seemed to be beating me over the head with the part price for the clutch kit. Saying $470 for some no-name shiot.. WTF man. I was about to order the ACT last friday, and something made me call my local Mazda dealer. Turns out they have the clutch I need, full kit, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, alignment tool, EVERYTHING for only $171+ tax~~!!!!
WOW!
and from the dealer too!
(same dealer got me all new bushings and boots for the shifter for $45 less than from anyone online[mazdatrix was next after that])
They had it in stock and everything.
When I went in there I was talking to the parts guy, and he told me that I'm lucky I have the convertible. He showed me that the clutch the N/a vert uses is the same one used in th B2300 and the 323 of the same years. He said if it was the N/a coupe or a TII or a Turbo vert that it'd be 2x or 3x that!
Well I'll be , it actually pays to drive a N/a vert!
LOL
Just kidding
Anyways, thats a bit of Convertible trivia that I bet hardly anyone here knew about. MY guess is the same as Icemark's , that the clutch for this car has different springs, that make the clutch engage with a 'lighter' touch, probably more slipping, so that the car doesn't have a jerky underpowered take off....
but your guess is as good as mine as to why mazda used a different clutch on only this car.....
Just thought I'd post an update.
|M|
I called all around and looked online for a clutch kit at a somewhat decent price(IE cheap)
MY mechanic(who has been good to me and my family and friends- many times just tells me it's something simple and tells.shows me how to fix it myself-they've even let me borrow special tools!) seemed to be beating me over the head with the part price for the clutch kit. Saying $470 for some no-name shiot.. WTF man. I was about to order the ACT last friday, and something made me call my local Mazda dealer. Turns out they have the clutch I need, full kit, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, alignment tool, EVERYTHING for only $171+ tax~~!!!!
WOW!
and from the dealer too!
(same dealer got me all new bushings and boots for the shifter for $45 less than from anyone online[mazdatrix was next after that])
They had it in stock and everything.
When I went in there I was talking to the parts guy, and he told me that I'm lucky I have the convertible. He showed me that the clutch the N/a vert uses is the same one used in th B2300 and the 323 of the same years. He said if it was the N/a coupe or a TII or a Turbo vert that it'd be 2x or 3x that!
Well I'll be , it actually pays to drive a N/a vert!
LOL
Just kidding
Anyways, thats a bit of Convertible trivia that I bet hardly anyone here knew about. MY guess is the same as Icemark's , that the clutch for this car has different springs, that make the clutch engage with a 'lighter' touch, probably more slipping, so that the car doesn't have a jerky underpowered take off....
but your guess is as good as mine as to why mazda used a different clutch on only this car.....
Just thought I'd post an update.
|M|
09-19-05, 09:28 PM
#4
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I wish the stock unit had more "bite" like the towing clutch I had put in my old truck. It had a really heavy pedal though, as it was a towing clutch. I can get over 100,000 miles from a clutch. i have done it more than once. The stock one in the FC has 60k on it and feels good still. Even after teaching my wife to drive a stick and also after beating on it some, ie: a couple clutch drops, and really hard launches. It's not bad really, but I wish it were a bit heavier in the grabbing departmant.
09-19-05, 09:52 PM
#5
tom port.. AKA streetport
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i got the centerforce dualfriction
the other day. i tried to get a decent burnout (with the stock)and just had LOTS of smoke from the clutch!! still has lots left just a little to much tach
the other day. i tried to get a decent burnout (with the stock)and just had LOTS of smoke from the clutch!! still has lots left just a little to much tach
Last edited by 88rxn/a; 09-19-05 at 10:02 PM.
09-19-05, 10:00 PM
#6
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Centerforce Dual-Friction and dont look back....
If you have ANY questions just ask....
matrix9eleven@hotmail.com
If you have ANY questions just ask....
matrix9eleven@hotmail.com
09-19-05, 10:02 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
i got the centerforce dualfriction the other day i tried to get a decent burnout and just had LOTS of smoke from the clutch!! still has lots left just a little to much tach
the other day i tried to get a decent burnout and just had LOTS of smoke from the clutch!! still has lots left just a little to much tach
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