Alright. I'm SERIOUSLY confused about my overheating..... (long)
09-18-04, 11:06 AM
#26
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RotaryForce13b - Nope, normal oil smoke... I have a hypothesis, that I haven't had time to explore..
I think i have (well, I know i have now) a oil leak at the top of the engine block, where the oil injectors are. I'm THINKING that the leak is causing low pressure, therefore, no oil cooling, which causes my water to overheat then.. I don't have functional oil pressure gauge, as mine is broke, and I don't have the 45 dollars to buy a new one, since I keep spending the money on replacing cooling system components which aren't working because the oil system may be running low on oil presssure, but I can't afford a new gauge since I keep spending money on the... nevermind, you get the point..
Either way, I'm tearing the Upper Intake all off as soon as possible. It may not be until possibly tomorrow or so, as my house is getting ready to flooded.. .This has NOT been my past two weeks......
Thanks for the suggestions all, I will be doing a THOROUGH investigation as soon as I get to look at the car..
I think i have (well, I know i have now) a oil leak at the top of the engine block, where the oil injectors are. I'm THINKING that the leak is causing low pressure, therefore, no oil cooling, which causes my water to overheat then.. I don't have functional oil pressure gauge, as mine is broke, and I don't have the 45 dollars to buy a new one, since I keep spending the money on replacing cooling system components which aren't working because the oil system may be running low on oil presssure, but I can't afford a new gauge since I keep spending money on the... nevermind, you get the point..
Either way, I'm tearing the Upper Intake all off as soon as possible. It may not be until possibly tomorrow or so, as my house is getting ready to flooded.. .This has NOT been my past two weeks......
Thanks for the suggestions all, I will be doing a THOROUGH investigation as soon as I get to look at the car..
09-20-04, 04:43 PM
#28
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oh yeah, i'm skilled at it now.. I had a leaking coolant problem up there, and I removed ALL of my emissions while I was up there... now it's a race-team style removal.. 
BUt we've been flooded here pretty good... So I'm not going to get to play with my car for a while longer..
BUt we've been flooded here pretty good... So I'm not going to get to play with my car for a while longer..
09-20-04, 07:38 PM
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did you do omp block off while you were there? im thinking of doing that soon..
back to topic. maybe youre just running really really really lean and combustion temps are cracked out.
ive been thinking on this one, ive got it to this:
first it has to be a block in the coolant. somewhere.
hopefully (hope to gaawwwd) its not in the housings, but that could be most likely. last time you changed the pump was the housing unusually worn?> maybe your walls are corroded.
when you drained coolant last time was there alot of sediment?>
back to topic. maybe youre just running really really really lean and combustion temps are cracked out.
ive been thinking on this one, ive got it to this:
first it has to be a block in the coolant. somewhere.
hopefully (hope to gaawwwd) its not in the housings, but that could be most likely. last time you changed the pump was the housing unusually worn?> maybe your walls are corroded.
when you drained coolant last time was there alot of sediment?>
09-20-04, 08:06 PM
#30
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[QUOTE=WonkoTheSane]
I think i have (well, I know i have now) a oil leak at the top of the engine block, where the oil injectors are. I'm THINKING that the leak is causing low pressure, therefore, no oil cooling, which causes my water to overheat then..
The oil supply for the MOP is basically a static flow, it is not pressurized, therefore if any of your injectors are leaking, it shouldn't affect your main oil pressures...
As for the bleeder screw on the S4's, in the 6 years or so I've had my car, I have never had to crack open that bleeder, and have never had a problem with "air bubbles" blocking any coolant flow, and the system has been drained and refilled more times than I could count. Even with the aftermarket rad (which has no bleeder screw), no problems... I think you guys are giving mystical powers to the ability of a simple air bubble to totally clog your coolant system, lol...
I think i have (well, I know i have now) a oil leak at the top of the engine block, where the oil injectors are. I'm THINKING that the leak is causing low pressure, therefore, no oil cooling, which causes my water to overheat then..
The oil supply for the MOP is basically a static flow, it is not pressurized, therefore if any of your injectors are leaking, it shouldn't affect your main oil pressures...
As for the bleeder screw on the S4's, in the 6 years or so I've had my car, I have never had to crack open that bleeder, and have never had a problem with "air bubbles" blocking any coolant flow, and the system has been drained and refilled more times than I could count. Even with the aftermarket rad (which has no bleeder screw), no problems... I think you guys are giving mystical powers to the ability of a simple air bubble to totally clog your coolant system, lol...
09-20-04, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
The oil supply for the MOP is basically a static flow, it is not pressurized, therefore if any of your injectors are leaking, it shouldn't affect your main oil pressures...
As for the bleeder screw on the S4's, in the 6 years or so I've had my car, I have never had to crack open that bleeder, and have never had a problem with "air bubbles" blocking any coolant flow, and the system has been drained and refilled more times than I could count. Even with the aftermarket rad (which has no bleeder screw), no problems... I think you guys are giving mystical powers to the ability of a simple air bubble to totally clog your coolant system, lol...
As for the bleeder screw on the S4's, in the 6 years or so I've had my car, I have never had to crack open that bleeder, and have never had a problem with "air bubbles" blocking any coolant flow, and the system has been drained and refilled more times than I could count. Even with the aftermarket rad (which has no bleeder screw), no problems... I think you guys are giving mystical powers to the ability of a simple air bubble to totally clog your coolant system, lol...
Oh well, i'm going to do some checking while I have the upper intake off, and see if I can find anythign messing up... I dunno what else to do.rs_1101 - That's a possibility.. I don't think they were corroded though.... My coolant didn't look too dirty, but then again, it's only in htere until the car heats up... but last time I drained it, there wasn't anything in there (as far as sediment/oil/etc).
In other news, I'm probably eligible for a very low interest emergency loan, so I"m thinking I'm going to look into getting a miata for a daily driver, and keep the Rx for fun time
09-21-04, 03:02 PM
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EFF THAT!!!! drop the 13b into the miata. can you say power to weight ratio? in SCC they just featured a dude that dropped in a carbd s4 na motor that runs 13's.
what id do: take the miata, pull your motor (assuming its good). take some time, rebuild it, shine it up and whatnot, then when the time is right...rotarize the miata, like it shouldve come from the factory.
what id do: take the miata, pull your motor (assuming its good). take some time, rebuild it, shine it up and whatnot, then when the time is right...rotarize the miata, like it shouldve come from the factory.
09-21-04, 03:09 PM
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Rs_1101 - I would LOVE to have a 13bt miata, but I need at least one car to be dependable.. besides, I like what I've done to the body of my Rx
09-21-04, 04:59 PM
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i didnt say bt. i said 13b. a 2000lb miata is very possible.. those things are like go karts.
i figure selling the shell would get u some decent cash for a garage rebuild and custom mounts.
i figure selling the shell would get u some decent cash for a garage rebuild and custom mounts.
09-21-04, 05:13 PM
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Nah.. .I'm not selling the 7 One car for practical, day to day driving (miata), and then my fun car (7).. .best of both worlds
From what i've read/heard, the miata engines never die. and most of the bodies I've seen don't have any rust, either
either way, it's a pipe dream for now, i won't know anything about the loans for about two more weeks or so.. I guess the office is overloaded, since i'm in a disaster area...
One car for practical, day to day driving (miata), and then my fun car (7).. .best of both worlds From what i've read/heard, the miata engines never die. and most of the bodies I've seen don't have any rust, either
either way, it's a pipe dream for now, i won't know anything about the loans for about two more weeks or so.. I guess the office is overloaded, since i'm in a disaster area...
Last edited by WonkoTheSane; 09-21-04 at 05:15 PM.
09-21-04, 09:37 PM
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Hey, i have a question for anyone out there in rx7 land.. Which direction does your coolant flow, if you're looking down into the coolant fill cap? Mine flows from the water pump TO the radiator.... that does not make any sense to me?? shouldn't it be flowing from the top of the radiator down, through the water pump/engine block, then to the bottom of the radiator?? I've never worked on a car with the opposite, and i never paid attention to mine before I had problems with cooling..
09-21-04, 10:04 PM
#38
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If we start at the rad, the flow goes like this...
Lower rad hose
Water pump
Top left passage of front rotor housing
Upper and left sides of the rest of the housings
Heater core -and-
Upper coolant run (thermowax, BAC)
And the return trip...
Bottom and right sides of the housings
Nipple on the pump housing (from the small coolant lines)
Upper right passage of front rotor housing
Water pump
Upper rad hose
Radiator
I left the turbo coolant run out, because it doesn't concern me, lol...
Lower rad hose
Water pump
Top left passage of front rotor housing
Upper and left sides of the rest of the housings
Heater core -and-
Upper coolant run (thermowax, BAC)
And the return trip...
Bottom and right sides of the housings
Nipple on the pump housing (from the small coolant lines)
Upper right passage of front rotor housing
Water pump
Upper rad hose
Radiator
I left the turbo coolant run out, because it doesn't concern me, lol...
09-21-04, 10:43 PM
#39
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hmm.. so I'm not crazy.. is it possible that it's messing up since I have all external systems blocked off? I mean, the nipple on the back of the pump housing is blocked off, nipple on the engine block is blocked off, there's no thermowax or anything.. the only thign I have left is the heater core..
you've already shot down my oil pressure idea, have any others?
you've already shot down my oil pressure idea, have any others?
09-21-04, 10:49 PM
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Lol, no, I don't think blocking off your upper small coolant run would reverse your pump flow...
I have heard some guys say that they ran hotter with those passages capped off, and I've heard guys say it makes no difference. So who knows???
I have heard some guys say that they ran hotter with those passages capped off, and I've heard guys say it makes no difference. So who knows???
09-23-04, 06:09 PM
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hmm.. I have another hypothesis.. I'm wondering what the radiator fill cap PSI rating should be? I thought I heard someone say that the system runs around 13 PSI normally, right? My cap (that I just got a bit ago) is rated at 13PSI? could my cap be letting coolant out too easily? I'm hoping that my OEM replacement gets in tomorrow at the dealer... Any idea waht tehy're rated at?
it would really suck if I can't make the autocross on sunday because I can't keep my temps down...
it would really suck if I can't make the autocross on sunday because I can't keep my temps down...
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