was wondering what temperature readings (in fahrenheit) people were getting with their Turbo II's and at what combination of boost and fuel.

8 psi (stock injectors)

10 psi (stock injectors)

12 psi (aftermarket injectors ie 680 secondaries or larger)

Oh yeah. It would also help me if you could tell me where you tapped your probe. Also whether or not you're running cats or a straight downpipe. Thanks


-Justin

 

I don't have the exact setup you do, but my EGT gauge reads about 1000-1300 deg. F depending on load.

I can run down the road and see 1,100 deg. on the EGT and find the fuel load point on the stand alone puter and richen that point up and watch the guage lower a bit....A richer condition acts as EGT coolant, because of fuel characteristics... of course you probably knew this anyway. But its all based on your tuning..I guess that my point..If the EGT's are high your lean, etc.

 

Thanks for the response. I know the characteristics of how the egt will look whether is rich or lean. What I'm trying to find out is what's normal for the amount of boost. Like when do I know when it's warmed up so I can stomp on it. I want to start relying on the egt gauge rather than that weak excuse for a temp gauge on the stock cluster.

If anyone else has something different I would love to hear about it.

Oh yeah and 1000-1300 sounds awfully high. But then again that's what I'm trying to figure out. What's "normal"?

 

The position of the EGT probe makes a big difference.
It shouldn't matter if you're running cats or not - the EGT probe should be closer to the engine than the cats, period.

I don't understand what you're trying to ask.&nbsp EGT's should be a target, and not something you just passively look at.&nbsp Running 680's should not matter, if they are adjusted correctly for power.&nbsp If you're just running 680's and watch the EGT plummet due to too much fuel, you're using the EGT wrong.

GReddy EGT, 52mm, EGT probe in downpipe right after turbo:
720C WOT
780C cruising, closed-loop mode

GReddy EGT, 60mm, EGT probe in turbo manifold:
760C WOT
810C cruising, closed loop mode

1000F to 1300F is actually a bit too cold.


-Ted

 

with my greddy egt guage mounted about 2 inches from the turbo i would see 700dc at cruise and was told by a former moderator, 2nd ged extrodinair that i should not go over 780dc at wot for risk of explosion.

-Chris

 

should be the same for all 3.... other wise you need some tuning.

 

The reason why I'm asking is because I don't know what temp is considered normal. Like you said "EGT is a target". How will I know what to aim for if I've never seen what a modded TII's temp is normally like. None the less I guess you've answered my question.

Anyone else??

 

i am running WOT in 3rd 15psi boost i see 680 d C,
but my car is not fully tunned yet, and i would rather be safer than sorry, so it is running rich.. until i can get it proffessionally dyno tunned!

 

I think my car is running very rich ,
when I am running at 10psi at WOT (3rd and 4th gear)it shows 680C . my probe is locate at 3" behind the turbo.

 

Just so you guys know about this EGT thing.

That is great that you do have an EGT of 680C at WOT.

But do you also that that 680C can be seen at two places? That temp can be seen rich of peak and LEAN of peak. The question is....which one is it homeboy?

James

 

I don't think 1000-1300F is to cold but it could be a bit better tuned. Mine is mounted in the DP right after the turbo/turbine and I do wish I had bought 2 EGT's and tap'd into the collector of the HKS manifold...that would have been optimum. Of course I'm more interested in the difference in temp vs. location. I'm sure there is a difference, but you think how fast the exhaust gasses pass through, how much different could it be? Its probably more than I realise

 

the idea I originally planned on tapped the manifold before the actual turbo. I assume that would get the best and most accurate reading about exhaust gas temps.

thanks to everyone who responded. If anyone has anything different let me know.

 

Well on my 88 T-II, Im running a Auto Meter EGT gauge reading in Fahrenheit. When im flushed it reads 1400 degrees at 11-12 PSI. Im using Greddy 720's in the secondaries, and of course stock 550's in the primaries. As far as upgrades are concerned I am running the stock turbo, stock intercooler, slightly ported motor on the exhaust side (just a **** hair) intake, FCD, Full Racing Beat Exhaust, stock fuel pump (not rewired), Dual alternator Pulley. All emissions removed. Basically all the bolt on's you can do, before you start upgrading the turbo, and going with a aftermarket EMS. By the way my throttle body is not upgraded its stock. "Cagefreak" by the way you mentioned that you wanna go by the EGT, to know when your is "Fully Warmed Up", well all I can tell you is when you start your car and its cold just let it warm up for a good 5 miutes thats what I do every morning before I go to work, giving the motor a chance to fully warm up, and at the same time giving the turbo some time to get some fresh oil in the bearings as well. After its warmed up I cruise the car for ac ouple of blocks, before I get on it, "Like the mad man that I am. " Thats my personal tip to you ofcourse, take my advice or do as you please, but let me tell you that with proper care, and routine maintenance your T-II will last a long time, of course be aware of boost spikes, over boosting, running lean, and overheating the motor, etc. Im living proof that T-II's are reliable cars if cared for properly my car has 180,000 miles, and still running, its already time for a rebuild. But **** after 5 years of hard drivin, daily driven miles its time to freshen up the internals "Gentelman Enough Said". By the way my EGT probe is mounted on the hole for the R.B. downpipe thats right next to the 02 sensor.

 

Yeah, 1400F is a much better number, when mounted in the downpipe. That's why I said 1000F - 1300F is kinda low.

The EGT's should read about 100F higher in the manifold, versus the downpipe.


-Ted

 

Actually I just realized that me making that comment was kind of noobyish of me. I should go by my oil pressure and temp to know whether or not the car is warm to WOT.

I've made up my mind and I'm just going to tap and weld the probe at the manifold. I truly believe that it's the ideal location for a good reading. Thanks all

-Justin

 

it's easy to know if the car is warm or not.

set a stopwatch and click the button when you start the car.

when 10 minutes have passed, the car is warm.