All My Gauges Went Dead!!
#1
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All My Gauges Went Dead!!
Anybody ever have this happen to them? All my gauges, (except speedometer) and cruise control went dead! I checked the fuses they are good, I really can't figure this one out. I'm not to good with wiring.
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#3
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yea my warning lights are always on... even the parkin brake light too.. ...how do i fix that? (and yes teh car is runnin perfect..) is it the fuse? or what?.. =( did anyone hav this problem?
#4
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Chances are you have a short in the wireing..
There's no real easy way to find shorts..they arn't any fun to track down.. but here is a suggestion
Get yourself a multimeter that has a continuity alarm on it..something that makes a sound when you have a complete circuit... now, go to your fuse box and pull the fuse for the guages.. one side of the terminal for that fuse is +12V, the other side should be nothing (put one probe on one of the terminals, turn on your ignition (since this will be a switched +12V) and touch the other probe to ground.. find out which terminal gives you +12V .. once you figure that much out, turn your multimeter over to the continuity test position.. attach one probe to the terminal that IS NOT +12V ... take the other probe and attach it to a good ground...
If your meter makes a sound, then you have a wire shorting to ground...
Keep the probes hooked up so that meter sound is constant.. now start wiggling around your wiring harnesses.. take your time.. as soon as you hear the meter stop sounding, you've found the general area of the short...
Hope this made sense..
There's no real easy way to find shorts..they arn't any fun to track down.. but here is a suggestion
Get yourself a multimeter that has a continuity alarm on it..something that makes a sound when you have a complete circuit... now, go to your fuse box and pull the fuse for the guages.. one side of the terminal for that fuse is +12V, the other side should be nothing (put one probe on one of the terminals, turn on your ignition (since this will be a switched +12V) and touch the other probe to ground.. find out which terminal gives you +12V .. once you figure that much out, turn your multimeter over to the continuity test position.. attach one probe to the terminal that IS NOT +12V ... take the other probe and attach it to a good ground...
If your meter makes a sound, then you have a wire shorting to ground...
Keep the probes hooked up so that meter sound is constant.. now start wiggling around your wiring harnesses.. take your time.. as soon as you hear the meter stop sounding, you've found the general area of the short...
Hope this made sense..
#5
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Did it happen after you put it in reverse? The backup light switch likes to short out and pop the gauge fuse. If so, I'd do like Chris Ng suggests, and start looking for the short around the backup light switch and the wiring.
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The silly clutch switch also likes to do this.. the wiring for the the clutch switch (the one in front of the clutch pedal, not the one on the back) hung a bit too low and my foot had caught it... the wiring pulled out of the connector and proceeded to ground itself to the clutch pedal intermittently.. Took me awhile to track it down .. I'd replace the fuse.. guages would work.. I would drive around for awhile, then guages would stop working again... I think I went through about 15 damn fuses before I caught it
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#8
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Poor soldering is the reason a majority of electrical problems occur in FC's. If you look at the solder points closely, they have a circular fracture around the pin. Often they work intermittenly, or they just dont work at all. This is common also in the heater control units and light switches. Take it apart and check it out, you might just need to heat them up again with a soldering iron.
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