Alert!!! my clutch is F'd up!
ok here is what happened. my clutch seemed to be getting weak at times and i didnt know what was wrong. it has the right amount of fluid. so it gets weak and then wroks right away. well 5 min ago it just got stuck to the ground and i couldnt get out of 1st gear. does can anyone help? i use my car more than half the day so this is a must fix be tomorrow. thanks in advance
Originally Posted by TRnnPnt88
ok here is what happened. my clutch seemed to be getting weak at times and i didnt know what was wrong. it has the right amount of fluid. so it gets weak and then wroks right away. well 5 min ago it just got stuck to the ground and i couldnt get out of 1st gear. does can anyone help? i use my car more than half the day so this is a must fix be tomorrow. thanks in advance
Without a sealed system (similar to when you are bleeding the system) when it's open, the clutch does not comeback up after you depress it.
New master/slave cyclender and some braided lines and never look back

*** I am no expert but the clutch not coming back up sounds like a leak/non sealed system or no/not enough fluid for pressure...
~CYD
No, the leak comes from air getting into the system. You won't actually be dripping any hydrawlic fluid onto the ground. I think... 
I had the same problem.
I got a new master & slave cylinder, new fluid and SS lines and never looked back!

I had the same problem.
I got a new master & slave cylinder, new fluid and SS lines and never looked back!
If you havent tried it yet, bleed the clutch hydrolics system with the bleeder screw on the Slave cylinder. Before you even waste time doing that, be sure to check the clutch master cylinder for leakage and to squeeze the slave's rubber boot. If any fluid is apparent, youve probalby found your problem. I know I couldnt find any visual leaks on my car when I had a dead clutch pedal until I sqeezed the dust boot on the slave and fluid ran out. 30 minutes of labor and $25 in parts and a lot of air bleeding and your good as gold.
Your slave or master is probably shot. I would replace BOTH at the same time (including the hose between them). Basically fluid is bypassing the pistons inside them.... if there's no leak, this is the most likely scenario. You COULD get a rebuild kit for them, but chances are... you'll need replacements.
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Go To your local parts store and buy them both for about 80-100 bucks, They are simple to install and you can go to the archives or look in your haynes manual to see how easy it really is. This is not hard to do man. Just replace them!
Originally Posted by TRnnPnt88
ok here is what happened. my clutch seemed to be getting weak at times and i didnt know what was wrong. it has the right amount of fluid. so it gets weak and then wroks right away. well 5 min ago it just got stuck to the ground and i couldnt get out of 1st gear. does can anyone help? i use my car more than half the day so this is a must fix be tomorrow. thanks in advance
Check the bellhousing by the oil filter. If that is pretty dry, then the slave is probably not the issue.
Bleeding is a different issue.. You know how to bleed brakes?
I don't mean to hijack his thread, since I am having the same problems, and I plan on just replacing the cylinders myself, my question is this;
Can you get to the slave cylinder from above, or does it require getting under.
I ask because it is cold as a witches tit in MD right now, and an under body repair will have to wait til spring, or an unseasonably warmer day.
Can you get to the slave cylinder from above, or does it require getting under.
I ask because it is cold as a witches tit in MD right now, and an under body repair will have to wait til spring, or an unseasonably warmer day.
Look between the oil and firewall. 2 bolts and its out. If you put a steel braided line (I recomend at least replacing yours. Mine was about to split) put the line on with the slave NOT bolted down. At least for the corksport line, the fitting doesnt "swivel" so the slave will need to spin.
Did you try bleeding before replacling because that could have bought you some time.
Believe it or not, these things hold quite a bit of fluid. So make sure you have done a complete bleed at both the slaev bleed nipple and the master.
Keep bleeding until it stops comming out black and bubbly and it's the color of the brake fluid. If bubbles are still comming out, keep bleeding.
Depending on who you ask, you'll probably get two different answers on how to bleed the clutch. Most say, do it like the brakes. A few will tell you it's slightly different because the slave acts differently than a caliper. I've found both ways work, so ... whatever. Bleed it like they are brakes.
Here is a writeup about rebuilding the cylinders. It has pictures at least.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=clutch
Believe it or not, these things hold quite a bit of fluid. So make sure you have done a complete bleed at both the slaev bleed nipple and the master.
Keep bleeding until it stops comming out black and bubbly and it's the color of the brake fluid. If bubbles are still comming out, keep bleeding.
Depending on who you ask, you'll probably get two different answers on how to bleed the clutch. Most say, do it like the brakes. A few will tell you it's slightly different because the slave acts differently than a caliper. I've found both ways work, so ... whatever. Bleed it like they are brakes.
Here is a writeup about rebuilding the cylinders. It has pictures at least.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=clutch
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