Ajusting my primary throttle valve?
02-04-10, 01:43 PM
#26
No, I ajusted the one that pushes up against the thermowax. Is that the fast idle screw? I can't find it for the life of me.
I was laying across my engine bay with a mirror and my he head crammed between the firewall and TB and I don't see any of the ajustment screws in that pic. I'm hopeing the idiots that had the car before me didn't remove any of it if thats even possible.
Is that pic from the top looking down? I don't see how these pics were taken unless the TB was removed.
I was laying across my engine bay with a mirror and my he head crammed between the firewall and TB and I don't see any of the ajustment screws in that pic. I'm hopeing the idiots that had the car before me didn't remove any of it if thats even possible.
Is that pic from the top looking down? I don't see how these pics were taken unless the TB was removed.
02-04-10, 01:55 PM
#28
i didn't read through all of the crap but first of all, the screw on the front of the throttle body is for the secondaries(the double set of butterflies) and they should be nearly completely shut, the screw is to only make sure they don't slam shut and cause the throttle to bind up.
second, the proper way to adjust the idle is with the idle adjustment screw ON TOP OF THE THROTTLE BODY IN THE CENTER OF IT, under the black cap.
third, reset all the rest of your adjustments that you screwed up in this thread back to how they were. you had it set properly in the first place but were reading things incorrectly about the SECONDARIES being open and were worried for nothing.
if the rest of you can't understand what someone is asking then try to be sure you do before causing people to further make more issues for themselves.
second, the proper way to adjust the idle is with the idle adjustment screw ON TOP OF THE THROTTLE BODY IN THE CENTER OF IT, under the black cap.
third, reset all the rest of your adjustments that you screwed up in this thread back to how they were. you had it set properly in the first place but were reading things incorrectly about the SECONDARIES being open and were worried for nothing.
if the rest of you can't understand what someone is asking then try to be sure you do before causing people to further make more issues for themselves.
I tried the screw on the top under the black cap, I can only turn it about 1 1/2 turns in either direction and neither helped.
I also said earlier that I'm not sure it's the primary throttle valve that is the problem, I have been trying to fix my idle for awhile and upon looking at it, thought it might be the problem.
02-04-10, 01:58 PM
#29
No, I ajusted the one that pushes up against the thermowax. Is that the fast idle screw? I can't find it for the life of me.
I was laying across my engine bay with a mirror and my he head crammed between the firewall and TB and I don't see any of the ajustment screws in that pic. I'm hopeing the idiots that had the car before me didn't remove any of it if thats even possible.
Is that pic from the top looking down? I don't see how these pics were taken unless the TB was removed.
I was laying across my engine bay with a mirror and my he head crammed between the firewall and TB and I don't see any of the ajustment screws in that pic. I'm hopeing the idiots that had the car before me didn't remove any of it if thats even possible.
Is that pic from the top looking down? I don't see how these pics were taken unless the TB was removed.
02-04-10, 02:04 PM
#30
so you mean you have to manually push the throttle cam down to get it to idle properly? your original post sounded like you adjusted the secondary throttle stop and it came down to where it was supposed to be.
if that is the case then the easiest way to verify that the thermowax is sticking open is to find the cam on the backside of the throttle body and push it down off the throttle(with a flat tip screwdriver). if it comes down and idles smoothly and your engine is fully warmed up then your thermowax has a blockage inside it, likely in the coolant passages not allowing it to warm up and close properly. pull the hoses off of it(they are filled with hot engine coolant so let it cool off) and make sure they are flowing fine from the engine through the thermowax and up to the water pump housing. you can bypass it by taking the spring off the screw in Satch's pictures and screw that screw all the way back in. you do have to remove the throttle body to do this though, that is only in the case that the thermowax itself has failed.
http://img109.imageshack.us/i/fastidlecam.jpg/
lower left is the screw and spring, remove the spring and screw the screw in fully to bypass the thermowax.
if that is the case then the easiest way to verify that the thermowax is sticking open is to find the cam on the backside of the throttle body and push it down off the throttle(with a flat tip screwdriver). if it comes down and idles smoothly and your engine is fully warmed up then your thermowax has a blockage inside it, likely in the coolant passages not allowing it to warm up and close properly. pull the hoses off of it(they are filled with hot engine coolant so let it cool off) and make sure they are flowing fine from the engine through the thermowax and up to the water pump housing. you can bypass it by taking the spring off the screw in Satch's pictures and screw that screw all the way back in. you do have to remove the throttle body to do this though, that is only in the case that the thermowax itself has failed.
http://img109.imageshack.us/i/fastidlecam.jpg/
lower left is the screw and spring, remove the spring and screw the screw in fully to bypass the thermowax.
02-04-10, 03:21 PM
#31
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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I'd take the time and just remove the throttle body. Then look carefully at the linkage and find the water thermowax and how there's a screw touching the top of the piston on the thermowax.
Now fill a teapot of boiling water and pour it over the external parts of the thermowax and watch the piston extend and drive the cam and roller apart. Should.
Then notice how if you had taken your finger and lifted up on that screw that sits on top of the water thermowax's piston.....that the cam will come off the roll pin and make the linkage go full closed.
With the linkage in the full closed position.......read the FSM and how to adjust the gap b/t the primary throttle plate and the throttle body. A feeler gauge won't work very well, so I just take a piece of electrical wire and stip the insulation off it. Then I unwind a single stand of wire and measure that single strand with a mic. If the single strand of wire is too thick I just take a piece of emery cloth and sand it down to the thickness required in the FSM. Then adjust the adjustment screw (NOT the screw on top of the thermowax) til the wire just fits b/t the throttle plate and the throttle body.
IF one turns the cam screw all the way clockwise the cam and roll pin will always be seperated no matter how cold the water in the engine gets. Of course you lose the function of the thermowax during cold weather and have to feather the throttle til the engine gets hot to keep it running. Not desireable.
The ROLLPIN is the item that has a green dot on its end in some of the Pictures taken by others. I think some of those pictures are of a TURBO throttle body and that throttle body is upside down from a Non turbo throttle body so it's easier for them to see/take a picuture of.
Now fill a teapot of boiling water and pour it over the external parts of the thermowax and watch the piston extend and drive the cam and roller apart. Should.
Then notice how if you had taken your finger and lifted up on that screw that sits on top of the water thermowax's piston.....that the cam will come off the roll pin and make the linkage go full closed.
With the linkage in the full closed position.......read the FSM and how to adjust the gap b/t the primary throttle plate and the throttle body. A feeler gauge won't work very well, so I just take a piece of electrical wire and stip the insulation off it. Then I unwind a single stand of wire and measure that single strand with a mic. If the single strand of wire is too thick I just take a piece of emery cloth and sand it down to the thickness required in the FSM. Then adjust the adjustment screw (NOT the screw on top of the thermowax) til the wire just fits b/t the throttle plate and the throttle body.
IF one turns the cam screw all the way clockwise the cam and roll pin will always be seperated no matter how cold the water in the engine gets. Of course you lose the function of the thermowax during cold weather and have to feather the throttle til the engine gets hot to keep it running. Not desireable.
The ROLLPIN is the item that has a green dot on its end in some of the Pictures taken by others. I think some of those pictures are of a TURBO throttle body and that throttle body is upside down from a Non turbo throttle body so it's easier for them to see/take a picuture of.
02-04-10, 03:33 PM
#32
On mine the screw is on the bottom of the thermomax and I the screw doesn't move by lifting or push ing on it.
Karack, stupid question, is the cam the part on the front and back of the throttle body that turns with all the springs on it. If so I turned the one on the front clockwise(opposite of giving it gas) and yes the idle went down to normal, but only if I hold it there.
I will go take off the lines and check them and this weekend I will take the TB off and put the thermowax in the hot water.
Karack, stupid question, is the cam the part on the front and back of the throttle body that turns with all the springs on it. If so I turned the one on the front clockwise(opposite of giving it gas) and yes the idle went down to normal, but only if I hold it there.
I will go take off the lines and check them and this weekend I will take the TB off and put the thermowax in the hot water.
02-04-10, 04:39 PM
#33
PROGRESS!!!.....I think...I did what karack said and took the spring off the thermowax ajsuster screw and turned all the way in. I managed to do it with the TB on but it was a pain, maybe could get another couple turns in if I really tried.
I started the car( had been sitting a little over an hour so it wasn't hot but not completley cold) It went to 1500 rpm, then droped to 1200 and stayed there! I let it run for a few minuits then shut it off. When I started it again it bounced about 3 times then leveled out at 1200. I drove it to the gas station, got gas, started it back up it bounced again a couple times and leveled out.
By the time I got to my house it was at full operating temp and was idleing steady at 1000rpm. So it's still not quite where it needs to be but is getting there. I'm gonna check the coolant lines next when it cools off to see if thats whats makeing the thermowax not work right. I can't thank you guys enough, this has been driving me crazy for months!
I started the car( had been sitting a little over an hour so it wasn't hot but not completley cold) It went to 1500 rpm, then droped to 1200 and stayed there! I let it run for a few minuits then shut it off. When I started it again it bounced about 3 times then leveled out at 1200. I drove it to the gas station, got gas, started it back up it bounced again a couple times and leveled out.
By the time I got to my house it was at full operating temp and was idleing steady at 1000rpm. So it's still not quite where it needs to be but is getting there. I'm gonna check the coolant lines next when it cools off to see if thats whats makeing the thermowax not work right. I can't thank you guys enough, this has been driving me crazy for months!
02-04-10, 05:56 PM
#34
I went 3/4 of a turn in on the ajuster screw with the black cap on top of the TB. It idles at 750-800 right now. I can see the tack needle moving just a hair but thats kind of normal isn't it? I'm not going to be able to look at the lines tonight, so without the thermowax I'm just gonna have to tap the gas when I start it cold till it warms up right? I'll set the TPS on monday when I can use the multimeter in my auto class. Thanks again guys, I'm so stoked!
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