I was looking at the icemark rotary page

http://www.mazdamark.com/prod01.htm

Because someone else on here was asking about the resistor deal....I used them on my honda and my Impalla SS, I bought them at Radioshack and they do work... BUT, his installation involves screwing with the maf sensor...why wouldn't you just put it in the AIT sensor on the back of the TB? Wouldn't this have the same effect? My understanding is that the AIT (air intake sensor) on the back of the TB would adjust the ecu accordingly...I may be wrong...but i thought we might simplify the installation for folks if it is possible to do it my way. I just hate to cut factory wiring....IMO.

 

Where exactly is this AIT? My TB has only one thing of wires going to it and thats for the tps? is this a only turbo or s5 thing?

 

It should be right around the BAC valve. Below it I think.

 

ANy ideas on why it isn't installed on the sensor that is designed for sensing the air intake temperature? Or am i just missing something?

 

This is a crude hack and just plain shouldn't be done.

 

Right i agree that it is a "cheap/ crappy" way to trick the ecu BUT still WHY would you molest the wirirng harness when it can be done less distructively?

 

The air temp sensor is in the AFM on nippondenso Air flow meters.

The sensor on the back of the dynamic chamber won't effect the ECU for timing. It only is for HOT START.

So you need to modify the signal that the ECU uses for air temp of the running engine, not the hot start circuit (which really is nothing more than a thermocouple switch).

By tricking the ECU into thinking that the air is cooler by modifiying the signal, the ECU advances timing slighty and provides slightly more air through the BAC.

Both of which lean out the mixture, helping a non turbo make more power.

The other advantage is that Nippondeso air flow meters have a really wide default range, so that for example, at 68* F, the meter can report between 2000 and 3000 ohms of resistance...

well if it really is reading off by 1000 ohms (and that is within the factory operating window) at 69*F it could be telling the ECU that it is really 110*F... which would way rob performance and actually richen up the mixture (less air in and timing back to default- no advance).

So adding a resistor in there helps prevent that warm weather default operation as well.

And everyone knows how much better the FC and FD engines both run on cold days.