AIT mod (eBay, +20hp etc etc): REVEALED
#26
*shakes head* These resistor modules plug into the dynamic chamber temperature sensor readout, not the airflow meter.
I'm basing this information on this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/intake-chip-433244/ Someone who purchased one took pictures of where it gets installed. It definitely goes to the dynamic chamber sensor.
At this point, we have a few people over in the other thread saying that this does work, and one reported dyno gain. We have here a lot of people saying it's junk based on theory. Even at Radio Shack, a pack of 100kOhm resistors is cheap. Can some people with heavily instrumented cars (wideband, EGT probe) with the stock ECU try this out? Fuel delivery changes would instantly show up on the wideband, and I believe timing changes would show up on the EGT probe. To do a slightly more scientific test, get a pack of 2-5kOhm resistors as well to test with the engine being told that the intake air is really hot. If, indeed, the dynamic chamber temperature sensor is used for nothing other than hot start, there won't be any difference between the two resistors in exhaust-side readouts.
-=Russ=-
I'm basing this information on this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/intake-chip-433244/ Someone who purchased one took pictures of where it gets installed. It definitely goes to the dynamic chamber sensor.
At this point, we have a few people over in the other thread saying that this does work, and one reported dyno gain. We have here a lot of people saying it's junk based on theory. Even at Radio Shack, a pack of 100kOhm resistors is cheap. Can some people with heavily instrumented cars (wideband, EGT probe) with the stock ECU try this out? Fuel delivery changes would instantly show up on the wideband, and I believe timing changes would show up on the EGT probe. To do a slightly more scientific test, get a pack of 2-5kOhm resistors as well to test with the engine being told that the intake air is really hot. If, indeed, the dynamic chamber temperature sensor is used for nothing other than hot start, there won't be any difference between the two resistors in exhaust-side readouts.
-=Russ=-
#27
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Syonyk
At this point, we have a few people over in the other thread saying that this does work, and one reported dyno gain.
We have here a lot of people saying it's junk based on theory.
Yet a 50k 75K or 120k resistor on the dynamic chamber did doo doo.
I even sold resistors on my online store for a while to debunk the Ebay BS, and this is why I did the testing.
So, I am extreamly skeptical that there are any gains that anyone found on any changes to the dynamic chamber.
But prove it for yourself, go check timing with and without a resistor in there. Go spend some dyno time. I have. So saying that :
We have here a lot of people saying it's junk based on theory.
#28
Carter 2.0
Icemark, I didn't see where you 'said' that you tested it before on the Dyno and had actual results. I bet Syonyk didn't either.
You pretty much proved your point after you said that you already tested it on the Dyno......which is what the thread (discussion) needed. Thanks
You pretty much proved your point after you said that you already tested it on the Dyno......which is what the thread (discussion) needed. Thanks
#29
Fair enough. I didn't realize you had done the extensive testing.
What kind of ambient air temperatures were you running in when the 4.7kOhm on the AFM showed the changes?
-=Russ=-
What kind of ambient air temperatures were you running in when the 4.7kOhm on the AFM showed the changes?
-=Russ=-
#31
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Syonyk
Fair enough. I didn't realize you had done the extensive testing.
What kind of ambient air temperatures were you running in when the 4.7kOhm on the AFM showed the changes?-=Russ=-
Then assorted Jacob's road dyno tests at anywhere from 40F through 90F.
See the problem with the dynamic chamber is that it gets heat soaked from the engine anyway.
#32
does it affect timing as well ? I guess the only way you would be able to feel a difference is if it fuked with timing. 2 hp is meaningless, you will almost never get the same horsepower twice not to mention on back to back runs.
#33
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yeah ive since removed it. that was a wasted 10 dollars.
Yesterday I started getting some messssed up idles (surging/pulsing, random dieing) its all better now since ive removed it. maybe ill resell it on ebay
plan B: time in install a prelude CAI. anyone have a how to ?
Yesterday I started getting some messssed up idles (surging/pulsing, random dieing) its all better now since ive removed it. maybe ill resell it on ebay
plan B: time in install a prelude CAI. anyone have a how to ?
#34
Originally Posted by Icemark
, yeah actually published the results here about two years ago. That is why I couldn't believe someone was still buying that BS and started another (now two) threads on this.
Also, *something* should probably be moved into the archives about it - "The Truth about the Resistor Mod"
-=Russ=-
#39
Missin' my FD
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Bump on this thread.
Here's my situation. I have a non-intercooled supercharger on my S5 NA. It runs great when the air temps (aftermarket sender just before throttle body going to digital gauge) are around 100 degrees; however, the car gets sluggish as the temps heat up. Part of this is probably due to the non intercooled problem. Also, heatsoak is likely causing part of the problem.
I have an S-AFC II. I moved the stock IAT sender to the supercharger elbow (about 4 inches from the throttle body) because I originally had the aftermarket intake temp send in the stock location.
Basically, my intake temps will continue to get hotter and hotter assuming I don't get into the water injection for a while. I see temps higher than 160 degrees sometimes and I'm sure the ECU is pulling timing with such hot temps. I'm interested in using a resistor to "fool" the ECU into thinking the temps are really ~50 degrees cooler than they really are. That way, when my temps are showing 150, the ECU would only see 100. And on a cool night in Florida (let's say 55 degrees) the ECU would still see temps that are reasonable.
I would guess that this resistor mod would be worthless on an NA car where the air is really not that superheated, but it seems that, in theory, in my application, it might be of some benefit. I'm not expecting to gain any power but rather just maintain the power that I have when the IATs are super hot.
Thanks for the input.
1. Is it worth the hassle? (really not that much hassle, so I'd like to try it)
2. What resistor do I need to purchase?
3. How do you "install" it? One for each line?
Here's my situation. I have a non-intercooled supercharger on my S5 NA. It runs great when the air temps (aftermarket sender just before throttle body going to digital gauge) are around 100 degrees; however, the car gets sluggish as the temps heat up. Part of this is probably due to the non intercooled problem. Also, heatsoak is likely causing part of the problem.
I have an S-AFC II. I moved the stock IAT sender to the supercharger elbow (about 4 inches from the throttle body) because I originally had the aftermarket intake temp send in the stock location.
Basically, my intake temps will continue to get hotter and hotter assuming I don't get into the water injection for a while. I see temps higher than 160 degrees sometimes and I'm sure the ECU is pulling timing with such hot temps. I'm interested in using a resistor to "fool" the ECU into thinking the temps are really ~50 degrees cooler than they really are. That way, when my temps are showing 150, the ECU would only see 100. And on a cool night in Florida (let's say 55 degrees) the ECU would still see temps that are reasonable.
I would guess that this resistor mod would be worthless on an NA car where the air is really not that superheated, but it seems that, in theory, in my application, it might be of some benefit. I'm not expecting to gain any power but rather just maintain the power that I have when the IATs are super hot.
Thanks for the input.
1. Is it worth the hassle? (really not that much hassle, so I'd like to try it)
2. What resistor do I need to purchase?
3. How do you "install" it? One for each line?
Last edited by pianoprodigy; 09-02-05 at 12:13 PM.
#40
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Originally Posted by Icemark
, it would be BS, I have tested it myself
No, I say its junk off of actually testing. I have personally run dyno tests on resistors on both the dynamic and AFM. The AFM change with a 4.7k resistor is the only thing that showed any gains (typically 2 HP on a dyno jet).
Yet a 50k 75K or 120k resistor on the dynamic chamber did doo doo.
I even sold resistors on my online store for a while to debunk the Ebay BS, and this is why I did the testing.
So, I am extreamly skeptical that there are any gains that anyone found on any changes to the dynamic chamber.
But prove it for yourself, go check timing with and without a resistor in there. Go spend some dyno time. I have. So saying that :
is pretty much BS itself, and sounds like you are basing it all on theory.
No, I say its junk off of actually testing. I have personally run dyno tests on resistors on both the dynamic and AFM. The AFM change with a 4.7k resistor is the only thing that showed any gains (typically 2 HP on a dyno jet).
Yet a 50k 75K or 120k resistor on the dynamic chamber did doo doo.
I even sold resistors on my online store for a while to debunk the Ebay BS, and this is why I did the testing.
So, I am extreamly skeptical that there are any gains that anyone found on any changes to the dynamic chamber.
But prove it for yourself, go check timing with and without a resistor in there. Go spend some dyno time. I have. So saying that :
is pretty much BS itself, and sounds like you are basing it all on theory.
#41
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Someone needs to dyno the electric leafblower/supercharger!
http://videos.streetfire.net/Player....AD23CA9564&p=0
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