DO you think that sheet metal could work I have fifty sheets of flat sheet metal in my yard and I know I could use shears on it

 

I have like fifty sheets of sheet metal in my backyard its thin do you think that could work it would be easy to cut with shears

 

Again, thanks for the compliments guys.

Thinner metal can work pretty well. My brother's airbox is constructed of that thinner aluminum roof flashing you can get at any home improvement store. I believe he used tin snips on his. I just wanted something a bit more substantial so I actually ordered the aluminum from an aircraft supply compant that was just a little bit thicker. I'll try to work on a construction manual...maybe that'll help you guys. It really was easier than I thought it would be. It took me nearly all day, but that's because I really paid attention to detail like filing and sanding the edges smooth and stuff like that. Plus, I made some modifications to my brother's templates to fit my car a little better.

 

...and when you say "sheet metal" do you mean galvanized sheets? I'm sure that would work, but its appearance may not be as nice as nice, shiny aluminum.

 

Please, please, please,
Just produce so for us people who don't have the skill or are to lazy to do it. That looks VERY professional. You would be like, pimp god yo wid the like pimp tight *** air box yo. Yeah, thats a tight name don't yo think? You could sell the box for like $50-60, I could get a good number of people to buy from you and you could make GOOD money from them. Think about it, please.
Charles

 

could I use sheetmetal instead Ive got lots in my backyard its thin and flat

 

sorry about that so typing that so many times

 

the metal is galvanized but has a polished finish on one side

 

Rexter, give it a shot. It may look great. One more thing...steel is much harder to work with than aluminum and the thinner it is, the sharper the edges will be so wear gloves or something. To me, a thin steel box is as good an idea as the thicker aluminum box, but aluminum is A LOT easier to drill, bend and file and it's lighter weight, but if you've got steel, find a way to make it work.

 

Looks great, I was pondering the idea of making a chargecooler + cool can + water/AF + electric 12V water pump to replace my intercooler. And on race-day use dry ice to fill the cool can. I am still trying to get all the plans, actually funds for this idea and then I will try it out. An idea like yours would further compliment the chargecooler.

Thanks
TRU

 

Man that is so sweet, I think im gonna have try and make one......or just market the thing, you could make some serious $$$$ off that thing.

 

Man, I never thought there would be such a desire for these things, but here's the deal. They take a long time to make and I don't have the time to make a bunch of 'em. All that I can say is, as I have before, it is easy to do yourself. If you want templates, I'll be glad to trace mine onto paper and I'll send 'em to you along with a list of tools you may need, materials and a great source for aluminum. Then, you can go get a twelve of Shiner, take the box it came in, trace the paper images onto it and then trace that onto your aluminum for cutting. You'll notice I didn't suggest going straight to the metal. That is because you'll want to construct the box out of cardboard and fit that first so you can make any adjustments to the cardboard and not the more costly aluminum. My email address is attomica@aol.com

 

What tools are required? How'd you cut the sheetmetal so clean.

Thanks man

 

for cutting, Radio Shack has a $10 tool called a "nibbler". This thing is awesome! It makes super clean cuts and they can be curved or straight. Of course, there's a trade-off. It works by cutting out a small "bite" each time you squeeze the handle so it's not, by any means, a fast way to do it. Knowing that, I just got a comfy stool and sat out on the driveway and just made the cuts without worrying how long it was taking. I thought about a jigsaw, but I saw the cutting of the aluminum as a more delicate thing and I'd rather use a hand tool for that. After cutting, I'd run a file over the edge just to make it as smooth as possible.

 

why not just paint the outside of the metal box with high-temp engine paint? 4 or 5 coats of that will insulate it nicely, and you can paint it to match your car. The stuff is cheap too.

just a thought

 

can you get the part # for the tool out of a radio shack catalog?

 

Strange, the tool's not on their website, but I bought one at a store near me and another at a store across town so unless they've quit distributing them, they should be in any store. I'll try to go by tomorrow or Friday and see if they're still there.

 

ponykiller, I thought about painting it, but frankly, I didn't want to hassle with the mess associated with painting. Plus, actual installation once the box has been produced is sort if an ungraceful process with force and I'm certain the resulting scratches would look pretty crappy.

 

How did you secure the box in?? Is it just setting in there or did you put screws into the fender wall or something?? I just went out and got some materials to make my own, and this is the only thing I am unsure of.

 

about the jigsaw, i wouldnt recommend using a blade on sheet anything. the general rule is that there should be at least 2 teeth engaged on a piece of metal at all times, otherwise you rip metal and tear off teeth. there is something called electric metal shears, (power tool price)

just a tidbit of info

Justin

 

can you get a pic of the nibbler or tool that you used !

 

Excellent job, your craftsmanship looks great.

Now notice how the hood prop partially blocks the snorkel inlet. I removed mine and now use an aluminum tube stowed behind the snorkel.

 

Rxmfn7, I fabricated a small bracket with some scrap aluminum and used that to secure the box to the side of the engine compartment using a threaded hole that was already there to secure the stock airbox. It is also supported and held in postition by the actual neck of the air flow meter where the cone slides on (I actually fortified the flexible duct of the AFM with some polished aluminum bar too). Then on the side by the snorkel, it's all pretty much just held in with tension. It turned out to be very secure and doesn't flop around or vibrate. I hope I'll never need to, but I sort of dread the removal of the box because it is so tight.

vmb, I'll post some pics of the nibbler tonight.

SureShot, Thanks. I haven't noticed if my prop rod intereferes, but I'll definitely give it a look.

 

OK, thanks alot. I just made my template and will start actually cutting the aluminum soon ( took a break to go swimming its like 95* outside ) If all goes well I should be done tonight, Ill post pics tomorrow (unless it looks shitty then I'll just say that I never got it finished