davescustomperformance

Well, I did some studying and a lot of swapping parts around and still have not come up with a single thing except more numbers. I own an 1988 N/A SE. My problem is when I hit around 6000RPM at WOT, it starts cutting out really bad and the A/F meter bounces rapidly between rich and lean. I can only read the rear rotor because of my header. I found out later that it has to do with the air meter more than RPM, on my apexi safc2, it reads 50% when it starts cutting out. Here are some voltage numbers I obtained from it.
Meter fully closed - 3.860 V
Meter fully open - 0.390 V
Meter at "50%" as listed by safc2 - 0.495V
The main issue I'm having with this is that I KNOW that you supercharged and turbo conversion from N/A are flowing TONS more air than I am, and I've never seen another problem like this. I have tried 3 different air meters, one from another 88 (which I am using the ECU from), and one from an 87. They all about the same, and they all cut out at the same point. The only real air-flow mods I have are full exhaust, TB mod, and 6-ports wired open. My theory so far is that the air meter should opperates on a .5-4v reference, seeing the if it goes under .5V, it starts cutting out and 3.8 is close to 4. If anybody happen to know how to set these, it might solve my problem. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much guys

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I hit damn near 90% on my SAFC all the time with my '87 6port turbo. Have you checked the usual culprits other than the AFM? Such as fuel pump/plugs/coils/timing/etc? Are you sure your SAFC settings are correct?

davescustomperformance

yeah, I did all that. She's in excellent shape, The 88 GXL i had bought off a kid who wrecked it ran excellently and was 100% stock. Over the past few days i've been replacing all of my parts with ones from that car. My timing is good, appx 800rpm, 4% retard, idles smoothly, plugs look great, wires look great. I evern got rid of my little bit of bypassed air and put that snorkel back on it. My afc is set right, I ever redid the whole thing to make sure. I'm am just completely out of ideas. Sonic, do you have an afc or afc2?

WAYNE88N/A

Dead spot on the TPS at 6K?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I've got an s-afc (the blue, 4 button style). I followed the directions on http://www.1300cc.com, and haven't had any problems since. Do you have any corrections/etc entered?

HAILERS

Try going minus 20-25 percent above 3000 and see what happens.It sounds to rich to me. TPS should not matter if it's a series four.

davescustomperformance

thanks guys, I'll try everything in the morning, but for now, got a tid bit more info to add to the frey. I was playing with the 3 meters I have and chose the "freshest" of the bunch. The car it came off of ran like a bat out of hell before it was wrecked. I also let it sit a good while with the battery disconnected. After I put it all together, I started it up, had a little struggle with keeping it idling, then it eventually stalled. It flooded itself, ofcourse. When I started it again, it ran nice, but my tach didn't work and my AFC was at 0 RPM. I got out on the highway and decided to screw around with it. I got it up to where the air meter read 52% (where it seems to cut out) and it kept going, clean up to 58% (appx .405V) when I decided to back off. I figured since the problem is only getting worse I decided to give the nitrous a shot (appx "50" shot 37/37 jets, independent 7psi fuel pump). It ran like a champ, felt like it pulled harder than it ever had before (yep, butt dyno, inaccurate but what I got). I got to work, shut it off, went to get out and the dorr handle wouldn't work, which is completely unrelated, it just sucks having to play "dukes of hazard". On the way home, my tach signal was back, it started the same stuff again, so I did what any person who ever played with a DSM would do and held it against it cut off point. It managed to give up to 6500, and it stayed that way. Tomorrow I'm going to put in my other ECU, Crank sensor, the other other coil packs (from the other other car), maybe switch some injectors and definately change the plugs and O2 sensor. I'll also try the age-old fix for most anything wrong with an RX-7 and run a ground wire from the air meter ground to the battery. Wish me luck!

Note: the ECU and injectors along with everything else is from an 88 car also, only the coil packs from the 87 are going into the 88.