nice stylEmon

too bad I'm a noob and need to use the stock MAF

I ordered the short ram that NJ was using, and now I just need a BOV.

would anybody happen to have a blitz SS for sale?

 

Hey stylemon are you worried at all about the amount of crap going to get stuck to the airfilter with it there, ie roadmuck?

 

Paul Yaw has amde same setup. He claims on the dyno he lost almost 13 HP on the top end..he didn't give reason for, just air flow bench testing..my .02 cents


also you want the BOV as close to the TB as possible..keeps the boost higher through out the system, without backpedaling the engine, and you will never get a back surge on the turbine wheel.. I run a Hybrid Turbo @ 34 psi and do not have any surge issues or back flow.

 

Just make sure the AFM is sitting nice and level:

 

No, there are a couple reasons that doesnt make sense:
the oil cooler would be crammed closed if that was a problem. (I don't even see a mentionable amount of 'roadmuck' on the bumper when I wash the car)

So far, this hasnt been an issue AT ALL.

Not to mention the air filter is cleanable...

I'll have to talk to him about that... I would think this would be good all around because it's actual cold air, not engine bay air or air off the radiator...

 

how do people mount there air flow meter, the intake i made, i had to make a little brace so the afm wasnt just resting in the engine bay

 

??? i dont have the exact same setup (i have a s/c instead of a turbo) but my intake ends up in the same exact spot as nj's. i dont have any bracket because the intake duct is solid enough that i dont need it, but i guess a bracket or brace of some sort wouldnt hurt. depending on your setup tho, maybe not neccessary

 

I guess you could use a bracket if you need one but mine is pretty solid where it is, not much movement possible. I have toyed with the idea of welding up a little bracket though...

 

yea i wound up welding alittle bracket, i think the tubing i used for the piping was shorter than yours so the afm wasnt in a good spot

 

yeah mines way up front right behind the headlight so it has some sheet metal to rest on.

 

if you really want extra support, take some sheet metal and fab up a heat sheild for the filter. sorda like was shown here, but there are lots of ways.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=cold+air+box

 

this is VERY BAD idea, pvc when heated lets off very toxic fumes.

 

I dunno about that... I doubt the engine bay gets hot enough to do that to PVC. I mean, it's designed to handle extremely hot water isn't it?

plus I used to have a sweet custom CAI on my grand marquis and it was made out of all PVC and I never smelled any toxic fumes.

 

PVC has to get VERY hot to do that. Downpipe made out of PVC = Bad Idea. Intake = No problem.

The day the engine bay gets 400 degrees plus is the day you have to worry about your PVC giving off toxic gas...

 

PVC is safe to use as a temporary intake or TIMC bypass for diagnostic reasons but should probably be replaced with aluminum, even if only to avoid the ghetto association that comes from having kitchen plumbing in your engine bay.

 

Here is my current set up. it used to be a 4th gen prelude intake that I cut up. not having an AFM makes things a lot easier.



I also don't really suggest the PVC way. if it burns it creates chlorine gas which is no fun...

as far as BOV, I have an apexi one, it's a kit they don't make anymore, but there are probably some others. it just replaces that plastic pipe between the turbo and the IC which is probably a good idea any way, and mine made my shoot sweet flames on the stock ECU

 

Mine. $20 or so for the sheet metal.

Being N/A, the other part of my intake is probably good for as much HP as I am making. Might do some aluminum or something another time, but right now, it works great. And sits right behind my headlight. Thought about getting rid of the rubber behind the headlight so that air would flow straight to the filter, but, where I am it rains religiously.

 

this is very similar to mine, except i have some weather stripping along the top of the sheet metal to make a nice seal with the hood. also, you kno that your intake snorkel serves no purpose now rite? unless you like the way it looks you can remove it. your shroud will look a little cleaner and less cluttered. unless of course you wanna rout it into the air box.

 

Yea, no purpose right now, just haven't takin it off yet. hahah.

School and work. And, weight isn't adding anything.

Glad you pointed it out, anyone looking might wonder why it was on there. haha. So everyone knows, it's just cuz i am lazy. Two 10mm bolts...... i know, real lazy. Was thinking of creating something later to take air from the snorkel to the air box, but, not sure if i want to yet.

 

LOTS of ppl do that. all they do is just make the air box a bit bigger, then cut a hole out and plug the snorkel into it. ill try to fina a pic.

 

That would be cool, thanks!

I looked online at.....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

But, decided it was more expensive then the HP i would get...... errr, not worth the cost.
I was considering wrapping the inside of the box with this stuff, and hopefully keep most of the heat out.

Though, a guy i was talking with said I should just put another piece of metal, with a small air gap between them, and it would probably do just as well.

Haven't really checked the air temp with and without the box.

 

yea, that would probably work too. honestly, as long as you have something, its probably about the same. when you are needing the power (aka hauling ***) there is so much air moving in that it probably makes little to no difference. its like the concept of the radiador fan: its only on from like 0-25mph because beyond that, there is already enough air naturally coming through the radiador that you dont need a fan to pull the air through.