Oh yeah, please excuse the newb question, but what is FC?

Also, with the rx7, couple quetions i cant find the answers to. Does it have only one rotor (the triangle shpaed thing that i guess takes the place of the piston. I took auto shop for 2 years in HS, but we never really studdied the rotary, just a quick glance.) or does it have more than one?

Ok, I'm PRETTY SURE, but just making sure, is it RWD? PLEASE DONT FLAME ME FOR THAT ONE!!! :P

The only stick I've driven was a 78 subaru wagon. That's what I learned on, I got pretty good at it when I had my permit, but my mom totaled it. How's the clutch, not that it matters, but ive never driven another stick other than that. Smooth shifting? How long is the shifting 'throw.'? The subaru was like throwing a friggin semi truck. Just got kinda annoying, plus 3rd was messed up, if you try to go from 4th to 5th, 3 outa 5 times it went to 3rd, NOT A GOOD THING!

Thanks,
Jonathan

 

FC- body code for the 2nd gen RX7
2 rotors-not 1
RWD-yes

ping, means detonation(reason that you don't use cheap fuel)=knock

 

FC3S= 2nd gen RX-7 Coupe
FC3C= 2nd gen RX-7 Convertible

 

So which fuel to use? 89 93 or 97

 

There is nothing to be afraid of with an rx-7. It is a car. It has a different set of worries than a piston car, as long as you inform yourself, you have nothing unusual to worry about. Bascially they've all been mentioned - keep the cooling going, get it enough fuel, and keep it in oil. That's really it. The engine is extremely reliable, because there are very few moving parts. It is sensitive to the basics though. The rx-7 convertible was not sold as a turbo in the US, but internationally.

The reason you hear about rebuilds and blown engines is that some people are too damn busy to check the oil, or keep the cooling system in good shape, etc. Basic maintenance stuff. Now you can blow the engine by doing uninformed modifications, but that is a different topic, and it's the same with piston engines.

Of course since you're buying a used car, you have all the sins of the previous owners to worry about. Ask to see maintenance records, ask basic questions about how it was maintained. If they seem shocked, they probably didn't maintain it. Don't buy it, etc.

You will find out, like most everyone, that after a few weeks of owning a sweet handling car, you'll wish for more acceleration, so you can have the entire experience. This is no Japanese people mover modified to have a larger engine, it is a bona-fide SPORTS CAR designed and built to be that only. It has plenty of pick up and go, especially once you're into the RPMs.
I have a 1990 Convertible that I paid too much for ($4000), but it had 58000 miles on it, and all maintenance records. Unfortunately it's an automatic. Avoid that as many have said. I go 0-60 in about 10 seconds. With the top up, I've had the speedo over 120 mph, at that speed the car is still rock solid. My car is completely stock, not even intake. A manual vert is probably 2 full seconds faster (1st gear on the Auto is a horrible ratio, obviously chosen by a complete moron), and with simple intake and exhaust mods even faster. I can corner 90 deg city streets at 35 mph, with only a slight wiggle at the rear, and that's on the 13 yr old suspension. Braking is very good.

All good advice about the top, mine had been replaced once. The rx-7 convertible is one of the finest convertibles ever produced. It is far superior to the miata, and the many miata clones (z3, mr2 Spider, etc.) that have appeared. This is a real car, it feels far more substantial to drive than those smaller verts. The hardtop is completely awesome - when the top is up, the car is very similar to a coupe in sound levels.

As you have noticed the rx-7 is a steal in today's used car marketplace. Follow your instincts. Welcome to one of the finest car experiences on earth (sorry coupes).

 

Thank you very much for that post, it was very informative, as was all the posts. I'm glad there is a commnuity that is there if you have a question. I hope to be here a while. This will be my first car and I just hope I don't get screwed on this. But like my dad told me a couple days ago, he got screwed when he bought his firt car at 17, as he did on his 2nd. He has passed on his experiences and what he has leanred, like to ask for maitence records etc. I just have (had) no information on the rotary engine, its needs, wants, special circumstances etc. I have a basic idea of how the engine works, but I don't know if I could re-build one if needed. I have no idea how complicated they are, but just to let you know my skill level, I have rebuilt a camaro LT1 (94 Z28) engine, and a 4.6 crown victoria block (in autoshop) That has to be one of THE BEST courses I took while I was in high school, next to math classes.

Before I buy: should I buy a CARFAX report? Or should I request it from the seller? How informative are these reports (if you have purchased them)

Again, thank you all very much for your information and help. I hope to be a 'more active' member soon!

Jonathan

 

In stock or minor mods:
NA FC 87 octane, for a Turbo: 91

 

oh yeah, another total newb question... 2 seater or 4?

 

by the way the verts are geared high... they have 4.10:1 in the back and can still hit 130mph below 6 grand in 5th gear. if you live in an area that has nice weather year around a vert is much nicer than a n/a coupe to have. however a turbo would trump them all (except maybe the foriegn market only turbo verts)

get the carfax, they are well worth it

as for your worry don't. i bought my vert as my first car as well and have no regrets a year later. take it to a dealer for a compression check and inspection, and ask on here about any questions you may have. the engine may look complicated but the overall systems are relativly simple. the biggest fear you will have is the fear of the overheat and of the engine itself out of ignorance.

verts are 2 seater only (the top of the roof will rest right behind the headrest speakers when lowered) the coupes are 2 or 2+2, but diffently not a 4 seater unless you are a small asian child

 

heh, heh, heh, nope, I'm 6'2" 210lbs of pure southern red-neck

I'd say we get pretty good weather, the winters can be slightly rough. Thats why they make a top though. OH, to test the top, if I see one 1st hand, heh, do u think it would be too much to ask the seller if i can hose er down and see if it leaks? IF he admits no leakage. From whay ya'll have been saying, tops are expensive.

 

Jon,

I have an '89 convertible now, that I'll be selling in a week or so. I just bought a '91 convertible. This '91 will be my 5th second generation RX-7.

Since you are a young guy, here's some things to consider.

When the RX-7 has a problem, it tends to be very expensive. Are you willing to pay $300.00 for a new clutch fan. Or say $800.00 to replace a primary injector?

The very reason this forum exists is because RX-7 owners are trying to save big money by doing repairs themselves, and asking others how to perform those repairs or worse yet, where to locate parts. There is not a lot of aftermarket support for RX-7s. Almost anything specific has to come from the dealer. And, look out when you go in there.....the parts alone can break you and God help you if you don't know what you are doing and need the dealer to do the repair.

I'm selling my '89 for probably around $2500. Its also white, black top, blue interior, but it is an auto.

Anyway, if you are up for the maintanence, I would suggest you look for a cheaper coup to learn on. Also consider that the convert top after 14 years will need to be replaced soon....that will cost at least $700 to have done right.

I once bought a '86 coup with a bad brake master cylinder for $800. Fixed the master the next day. Drove the car for about a year and a half and then sold it for $900.

Deals can be found, and you can have a quick car for half of the $4,000.

rob
robfeltner@cfl.rr.com

 

Ok, well now I'm confused....

People in this forum are saying that rotaries are reliable, etc. And I assume that they're saying the are "reliable" cars. Good for a first car.

Now, others are saying that alot of parts break, etc. This summer I will be working my *** off. I will do glass, mirror, light work framing houses, and shower door instalations from 9am-4pm, then work at Wendy's from 5pm-12pm all in the same day. I hope to build up some cash to buy a car.

So to put it in basic terms, Is this worth it??? Simple yes or no, with optional explanation. I don't have any experience with rotaries, but I know one person who can work on one, and another buddy who is ASE certified. Dont think he can work on rotaries, but maybe he can wing it - well, dont think that will work.

Anywho,

In you most un-biased opinion, is this a good car for a 17 year old. I thought it was because I want a semi-fast car (which the RX-7 is) good hefty car (3000 lbs is hefty enough) decent suspension (why not, might as well, another plus) and IT'S NOT A RICER (well, technically it is, but it gets respect from others, who dont like ricers either).

 

the key to remember is that any 12+ year old car is going to have some problems... can you afford to fix them or pay someone to fix it.

You'll see some of the same problems on any 12+ year old japanese car (and many 8 year old domestic built cars- but that is another story).

But because the RX-7 has a rotary motor, many people/techs/mechanics just don't understand the engine and therfore write off the whole car. Because of that it may be tough to find someone reliable to work on the car in your area, which makes you have to learn how.

I wouldn't be anymore scared to own a 15 year old RX-7 than I would be to own a 10 year old Honda as far as reliability goes however.

But either way, you are buying a car almost as old as you are, do you expect it to be perfect???

But an RX-7 in no means, will be as reliable as a 5 year old Toyota truck... so buy accordingly.

 

Ok, I understand, its an old car. I guess I'll bite the dust and just get one. I just hope the thing dont crap out on me after 2k miles, that'll suck. And boy will my dad have something to say about it... he has an old Delta 88 2-door, 5600 lb. POS. It dosent run, suspension is almost shot, but "It's still a car, I'll fix it for you." - NO THANKS! Sorry, but I'd rather buy a newer one. One thats in better condition. This thing is just awful. I kinda talked it over with him, he thinks it isnt worth it. But thats just because he wants to get rid of the POS, and hes mad because I dont want it. Nothing really that bad against the car, just that I dont trust his mechanics work, and grated, it has a 302, but I dont do to well driving a tank. The thing is huge...

anywho....

I start looking for a RX-7...........................
well, in a few months, gotta get some cash first.

 

God you guys are verbose! Look at the pic of my car. People have no idea what it is. Girls ask for rides all the time, girls I have never met before. The car is an absolute blast to drive, and mine will run stride for stride with an older 5.0 Mustang or Camaro. I have done very few mods to mine, and lightened it about 400 pounds. There is no more fun car made that doesn't have the prancing horse for an emblem. I have driven Ferraris, this is as close as you are gonna get on your budget. And if you have to pay 5K, it is money well spent. These cars only will appreciate in value.

 

Ok, thanks ya'll for all the info.... so usually no more than 3500 for near stock? (of course mileage affects this greatly) but for around 100k

STILL SEARCHING

 

FOUND A CAR ALREADY!!!! YA!

89 Coupe, 63k miles, exaust and intake mods, N/A, 3500, possibly less, going to go see it today.

I so essited

 

BUY A VERT!!!! Well, only if you like to give cute girls rides.

 

GO verts!
I have 2 a 89 and a 91.
Daily drivers from Kailua to Honolulu.
Hawaii is the place to have a vert, except my dermatologist does not think so.
Both have 146,000 miles. I put 100,000 on them. $6,000 for 91 rebuilt engine, new top, new leather seats, new...apply the green $ and enjoy.
When I see my first car a 1948 Olds listed for $19,000, the vert is a bargan and a investment you can drive.
Good luck, Forum will help with resasonable priced parts and free good advice.
Aloha, Dave in Honolulu

ps make sure you get the top boot cover. The guy that had the 91 before the gal I bought it from kept it to sell on ebay for 300, extorted me for it.

 

I also have a convertible. 88. But I bought it for 500 dollars. Sure, it had some problems, but I didnt expect it to be running prestine when I bought it. I'll attatch a pic at the bottom.

I have had to replace some wheel studs, the engine, tranny, and driveshaft (all bad at time of purchase) Also, sometime I will need to replace the top, the Las Vegas sun beats on it really bad. But overall, I am satisfied. I just want to make it a turbo now
I would give my opinion an say that you should buy one, but it might not matter too much, because we here are all pro-rotary. If you take care of it right, it's true, it wont need alot of maintenance. My car needed alot of maintenance, but I dont know what kind of people were driving it before hand. They might have cared a little, because it had some wheels/tire/suspension uprgade. But besides that, it was gone. Here is a pic of how the car looks now:

 

Looks nice, like the rims....

Well, I'm satisfied that the car is in good condition. The owner is acutally on this forum as well and knows his rotaries. It needs a new clutch, which he is replacing before I purchase. He said something about it being 'sluggish' past 5k rpm... can't punch it or anything. Sometimes it quits, sometimes it dosent, just loses alot of power....

I had to leave out of town before I could see it Friday, I just got back into town. I hope to see it possibly this weekend, give it a quick drive down the street, although it won't be fun w/ a slipping clutch (don't know how bad it is now, but it is driveable.)

Anyone know what that sluggish act is???

Thanks,
Jonathan

P.S. I went for the coupe because of the top having to be replaced and some of the leak, you never know when they will start leaking etc. etc.

 

It could be a major vacuum leak, or maybe some very dirty injetors.