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add coolant buzzer comes on at low RPM what's wrong?

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Old 05-29-04, 11:08 PM
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add coolant buzzer comes on at low RPM what's wrong?

88 TII no modifications

Today the add coolant light came on and the buzzer sounded so I pulled over and checked the cooling system out and everything was okay. I started the car again and drove home. After a little experimentation I found that the buzzer comes on if the car is under 1,500 RPM for more than 10 or so seconds.

The speed does not matter. If the car is stopped and below 1,500 rpm the buzzer sounds. If its going 55 with the clutch in the buzzer sounds.

3 or so seconds after I raise the thing above 1,500 rpm it stops.

The temp guage stays right where it always is; 1/3 up the guage.

anybody know what the problem could be?
Old 05-29-04, 11:44 PM
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Mine does the same thing but i dont want to tell u what my problem is. Dont wanna scare u. Let it kool and refill it with water/coolant. If it does it again..... I feel 4 ya.
Old 05-30-04, 12:28 AM
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Originally posted by PureSephiroth
Today the add coolant light came on and the buzzer sounded so I pulled over and checked the cooling system out and everything was okay.
Did you check the radiator level? That's what the warning is telling you, low coolant in the radiator.

Last edited by NZConvertible; 05-30-04 at 12:30 AM.
Old 05-30-04, 02:42 PM
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First, confirm it's the LOW COOLANT and not the LOW OIL sensor being tripped.
A quick look at your warning cluster should tell you if it's one or the other.
Second, if it is the LOW COOLANT sensor, you've got air bubbles or air pockets in your cooling system.  What does it mean for you?  You have a *leak* in your cooling system.

How do you fix it?
Find the leak and seal it, either by replacing the failing part or sealing the leak itself (i.e. sealant, clamps, etc.).


-Ted
Old 05-30-04, 03:16 PM
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Sometimes(actually a lot of times) due to the bend of hoses and slant of rad you need to loosen the sensor on top of rad to allow fluid to properly fill rad. I even tried adding the fluid there once and was semi successful tho sloppy(small hole). Easy just to loosen it put a rag to catch fluid while adding and slowly add till it starts coming out hole, then tighten sensor then final start and fill.

As well check all hoses for leaks and small leaks especially if you removed any of the smaller hoses like BAC cool hose etc. as the fit is never perfect after pulling them off when they are older and puttin em back on. I had a leak at the BAC carb cool pipe that took me forever to figure out as it was so small I never realized it was loosing fluid there. Had to take hose off clean everything reseal and use screw down clamps as pinch type no longer could do the job on the older hose.
Old 05-30-04, 07:53 PM
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Step 1 unscrew air bleeder plug next to the upper rad hose, i had this same problem for almost a week and I checked 3-4 other things before I loosened that screw and hear a resounding whoosh and see the coolant level in the water pump drop down to nothing.
Old 05-30-04, 08:37 PM
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Originally posted by Tiers
Sometimes(actually a lot of times) due to the bend of hoses and slant of rad you need to loosen the sensor on top of rad to allow fluid to properly fill rad.
There is already a bleeder plug on the radiator specifically for this purpose. There is no need to remove the level sensor.
Old 05-31-04, 12:20 AM
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just fixed the buzzer problem. Although, now my bleeder screw is stripped. Lousy plastic, that's gonna be a bitch to get out.

I don't know where the leak is in the cooling system but I will be checking for that as soon as this rain lets up
Old 05-31-04, 02:41 AM
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Get a flat blade screwdriver, heat it up real hot, and carefully melt a new slot into it. It doesn't need to be very deep.
Old 05-31-04, 10:16 AM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Get a flat blade screwdriver, heat it up real hot, and carefully melt a new slot into it. It doesn't need to be very deep.
Excellent engineering trick! I just getting to changing my coolant and found this stripped, thanks.
Old 05-31-04, 10:28 AM
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YA I know about the bleeder screw and have seen it stripped a lot. As well it doesnt always insure the rad is full whereas removing the sensor assured it was full. I use the bleeder to remove any air after topping up my way.
I am no expert yet on the second gen but am only passing on what worked good for me
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