Act 4 puck race clutch help (searched)
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Act 4 puck race clutch help (searched)
So I ordered an act 4 puck race clutch, and i learn it will be horrible on the street. can anyone explain further why? How long will this last me?
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Its because once u get into race clutches, Not only are they stiffer and annoying as hell to drive in traffic jams, but the range if you want to call it that that it engages is different as well. IT grabs quicker/harder and doesnt make for a very easy time driving it around everywhere
#4
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you cant slip a puck disk that much either. Slip too much and goodbye flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.
If you are intent on getting a puck disk, get one that is sprung so its not a light switch, but a dimmer so to speak in terms of engagement. A sprung disk would still be abrupt but its livable.
If you are intent on getting a puck disk, get one that is sprung so its not a light switch, but a dimmer so to speak in terms of engagement. A sprung disk would still be abrupt but its livable.
#6
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+1 on the flywheel comment.
A 6-puck unsprung is liveable (noisy, but driveable) with the stock flywheel, a 4-puck will be even more grabby. What's the point of a digital clutch anyhow? Do you really need to hold over 400 ft-lbs of torque? For drag racing maybe, but then a lightweight flywheel makes no sense.
Since the pads are metallic, the clutch disk itself wears OK, it's the PP & FW that buckle under the abuse.
You can try to use it, but realize you just bought a costly, high risk experiment.
A 6-puck unsprung is liveable (noisy, but driveable) with the stock flywheel, a 4-puck will be even more grabby. What's the point of a digital clutch anyhow? Do you really need to hold over 400 ft-lbs of torque? For drag racing maybe, but then a lightweight flywheel makes no sense.
Since the pads are metallic, the clutch disk itself wears OK, it's the PP & FW that buckle under the abuse.
You can try to use it, but realize you just bought a costly, high risk experiment.
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thanks for the advice. planning on buying an ACT street/strip clutch. since i have to drive this one home from Rotary Resurrection i cant return it. So i just wasted 350 dollars. then have to spend another 400 for a new one. fml
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#9
Rotary Revolutionary
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Its not the end of the world (unless its un-sprung...in which case it is lol). I learned to drive stick in my first fc, it had a racing beat 4-puck w/stock flywheel.
It IS a light switch, there is no gradual anything, essentially it was like using a series of controlled drag launches to get moving from a stop. U learn rather quickly what rpm u game to be@ to avoid stalling, (especially w/hot start issues and no fuel cut switch). If there are hills where u live I hope there are no stop lights on them; I was not so fortunate : wallbash:
If you're already stuck w/it you might wanna try it, if not for the hills it wouldn't have een so bad. It'll make u better at modulating the throttle, that's for sure. But if not, just buy a different disk, which won't cost u near 400.
It IS a light switch, there is no gradual anything, essentially it was like using a series of controlled drag launches to get moving from a stop. U learn rather quickly what rpm u game to be@ to avoid stalling, (especially w/hot start issues and no fuel cut switch). If there are hills where u live I hope there are no stop lights on them; I was not so fortunate : wallbash:
If you're already stuck w/it you might wanna try it, if not for the hills it wouldn't have een so bad. It'll make u better at modulating the throttle, that's for sure. But if not, just buy a different disk, which won't cost u near 400.
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