andrewbossie06

i dont enjoy a/c and it doenst work anyways so im contemplating taking it out. but im a little unclear of the effects of its removal, am i going to need a stronger alternator belt? ive read somewhere that it adds strain to the other belts. and can anyone point me to a good thread about removing the a/c?

inb4 search is your friend

also should i get an e-fan of keep my stock clutch fan?

MMoore4545

iTrader: (7)

taking the a/c is a straightforward job, I just finished doing that on my 'vert
if you're unsure of any of the steps, search, check the FSM, or go buy a Haynes manual.
mine was detailed enough to get the whole system out without much help.

if you don't have a good wrench set (you're going to need some 20mm+ ones for this)
invest in one.

take the car to a shop, they'll reclaim any refrigerant you have left in your lines, even if it doesn't work there could still be some in there.

you will only need to get a dual alternator belt when you remove your emissions system, because the contact patch between the waterpump and the alt-belt isn't very large and can cause cavitation.


as far as Electric fans go.
you have to ask yourself why you'd like/want one.
they clean the engine bay up, make room for intercooler piping, etc
but proper shrouding, wiring, and setting the thermostat correctly are all a must
or you will have a high likely hood of overheating

check Aaroncake's webside on the myths of an electric fan.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Once you've removed the refrigerant, it's all just a matter of unbolting stuff.
Very straightforward and simple, really.
The evaporator (the part inside the cabin) is fairly easy to access without removing the dash (the panel under the glove box does have to come off) and will leave three holes in the firewall when removed (inlet, outlet and drain).
These are easily filled with rubber body plugs which can be had for a song at the junkyard.

Assuming that your fasteners aren't all buggered/frozen, the whole job can be done in a few hours.

Cavitation is a result of overspeeding the waterpump.
The waterpump is literally trying to whip the coolant into a froth.
This is why racers- who spend a majority of their time at high RPM- use underdrive pulleys.

What you're referring to is the waterpump pulley slipping due to lack of belt contact, which means the pump is not flowing as much as it should, thus overheating.

As for converting to an efan...
You don't have to ask why you'd want to do this, I'll tell you.
An efan is a superior method of cooling the rad....period. Full stop.

It goes without saying that the above statement is predicated on a proper install of the new system (search the forum for a wealth of info about this) but assuming that, an efan beats the pants off a mechanical fan any day.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

I dont know exactly how much weight you will save taking it ALL out, but you may want to just remove the compressor, condensor and the lines. If you go to sell the car later the next owner may want the AC in the car.

Im a fan of AC, when I was younger I always took it out, and always dreaded hot days, taking a girl out to dinner or a date in a blazing hot car aint cool either, showing up at family functions with a sweaty shirt because you got stuck in traffic sucks too. No AC is fine alot of the time, but sitting in traffic SUCKS.

But anyhow- I would also keep the stock fan for now, it works great and people spend alot of time and money trying to duplicate its effectivness.