I went and test drove a '91 vert today. It has 117,000 miles on it and has a clean carfax report. It is N/A and feels kind of sluggish. I had a '80 and then later an '88, it has been quite a few years ago but I think my stock '88 may have been quicker.

My questions are these:

Is the vert less powerful than the coupe (both N/A of course)?

Is $5,700 too much for a clean '91 vert (in Virginia)?

Lastly, I've searched but could not find a thread on this. What would be the least expensive mod that would increase my horsepower if I decide to get this vehicle?

Thanks,
Kermit

 

A: They have the same power.

B: Not sure.

C: I would say freeing up your exhaust. Do you have emissions testing?

 

No, no emissions testing in VA

 

The vert is a lot heavier than a coup, which makes it pretty slow.
$5700 does sound kinda steep but maybe not where you live.

 

The '88 came with 146 hp while the '91 has 160hp.
The vert is about 300 lbs heavier
Here in Texas $5,700 is high.
As mentioned getting rid of the cats will give you more power.

 

That's complete BS. I put down 170BHP with just a partial exhaust upgrade (NA downpipe & single performance cat only) and my 0-60 ETA dropped by 1/2 sec to ~6.5sec. I've got lots of bottem end power and it feels much more rev happy.

And that's just partial exhaust, I haven't even done a cold air intake or streetport yet.

The fastest OEM NA (naturally aspirated - non turbo) coupe model is the GTU-S, but the rest of the NA coupes & convertibles are about the same power:weight.

The 1990-1992 verts are nice because unlike the S4 1988 or S5 1989 it has rear subwoofers (vs door subs) & full range speakers on the doors.

For $6500 it better be super imaculate. For $5700 I'd expect a clean inteior with no excessive rubbing/cuts on the seats. The top should be in good shape with no rips in the top's drain pockets (right behind the doors). The carpet should not be faded due to water damage. There should be no rust on the car or on the underbody (rust on the subrame or exhaust is normal). Check that there's no rust on on the licenseplate frame's top lip (an indication it was driven allot on salty roads). The suspension should feel nice & tight without excessive "swaying" on the hightway due to worn out swaybar end links & subframe end links. Shocks should still be in good shape.

Also make sure he has the original "hardtop bag" that protects the targa top when you pull it off and put it in the trunk.

 

Thank you all for the information. I think that I will offer $5,000 and stop at $5,300, and see what happens.