alright so my 91 vert i picked it up for 2500$$ probably put another 2000$$ in repairs and such. this is how it started wheni first got her she started right up ht or cold but the idle would sputter up and down and had check engine light. so i ran a really aggressive engine treatment witch lucky got rid of check engine light and i replace spark plugs with ngx iridium magnacore SP wires this solved the varieing idle for the most part. my oil mettering pump is still hooked but but ive been adding premix just to be safe though their have been times where i havent had time to add premix.

THIS IS THE BIG PROBLEM
so its been getting progressively worse. so when ur driving and you clutch in and the rpms drop fast someimes it dies out but would start back u again.
it started not wanting to start when hot (having to crankengine very long time to get to turn over. sometimes it wouldt fire over so id bump start and it work fine) but would start up quickly when cold.
one weird thing i was idling in neutral and i push in the clutch and it would die out im not sure what would cause this.
but frot the finally couple days ago iwas at at stop going to make a left and then engine suddinly died while holding rpms at 2500 went to turn it over souds like battery is dead because it cranks SO SO sloww. ive gone thre tested all eltrical componits (starter alternator battery replaces wires with 2 gauge wire added extra frame and engine grounding and this diddent fix or effect anything. still cranking rediculusly slow it and i cant compression test without the starter turning properly. something is inturnaly bound or seized.
i mean i dont get it i can red line it to 8000 and be fine but suddinly dies during daily cummute not being hard on it or anything
PLEASE HELP
Has 155,000 miles on it not sure when or if the owner before me rebuilt it.
N/A

 

take a 19mm socket and 1/2 drive tool and try to turn the engine over by hand clockwise. It should turn over fairly easily but with added resistance where it builds compression. If youre saying the electrical system is all good it could be something internal thats no good.

 

His previous thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...-help-1083339/

 

Your starter should not start smoking after 5 seconds of cranking...you have an electrical resistance somewhere. you need to take a multimeter and check resistance to and from the wires that you added, as well as the factory wires. Do you have corrosion buildup somewhere Rusted factory terminals?

 

What is a "really aggressive engine treatment"?

 

Bg-44

 

but the starter wouldent cause the care to just die and not bumpstart..
and trust me im very good with electronics, ive wired a 5000w audio system to 1.5 ohm and in audio its all about rsistance

 

Well theres still something wrong wireing wise because NO starter should smoke after spinning after 5 seconds, i've spun one for 30 seconds straight (NOT advised) and it didn't smoke a bit, so you have a short somewhere, or your starter is junk

And no, the starter would have nothing to do with it shutting off, but if you have a short somewhere, its very possible.

 

If that OMP is bad and you still have it hooked into the ECU it will make it go into Limp mode..at any time it wants to.

 

what dose limp mode do exactly?

 

Allows you to limp home by preventing the engine from being able to rev above a certain rpm threshold, usually under 3k. By turning off the engine and restarting it the engine can revert to normal mode but only for a period of time before relapsing into limp mode.

 

I had an older Porsche that did the same thing. Fire up cold slow crank warm.
Eventually I had an electrical fire. Had to write the whole dash, and retire starter alternator to battery. Check your wires, make sure you don't have a bare wire some place.

Also, not sure if you checked your tps yet. As soon as my girl would get up to full operating temperature, it would die. Cool down, fire up again run til it was warm. Replaced my tps, adjusted, back on the road. Even just the light test will be enough to check it out

 

Is the endplay set correctly on your eccentric shaft? Is the throw-out bearing and clutch installed correctly? Does the car have a "new" clutch and pilot bearing? When you're checking engine rotation, is the car in neutral? For some reason I'm leaning towards a mechanical problem. What was replaced when your engine was "rebuilt?"

 

im not sure the last time the engine was rebuilt. owner before me dident say. but ive swap transmissions to an 89 manual tras cause i blew up the other sidesteping the clutch. but when we did the swap we did not replace piolet bearing or clutch