I just bought a 91 that was in limp mode, with other problems. The owner sold it afraid of the worst...a bad engine. But since the car would not rev past 3,000 rpm's, I was hoping another OMP would solve the problem. The car is in very nice condition and seems to be well taken care of. Anyway, I just replaced the OMP, and cranked her up. There is barely any oil pressure. The car sputters on idle (pop-pop-pop-pop-pop) and I took her on the road to see if the OMP was working. One problem down, but the car hesitated the whole time, sputtering and just running very poorly. As I arrived home again, the coolant buzzer came on. I parked it and could not find any leaks, but when it cools down, I will top it back off (thinking that maybe I just didn't add enough after putting the radiator back in.) Does this sound familiar to anyone?

 

is the check engine light on, if so have u performed a code check to see which ones it throws?

 

ummmm...easily bogged...misfiring...loss of power...loss of coolent...you need to do a block test before you start throwing parts at it...sounds like a rotor may be out. However...

 

That and if you just swapped the OMP without disconnecting the battery first, chances are the ECU's still storing the error code. If you still have error codes (easy to check, goto http://www.1300cc.com) check them, though a compression check before you go playing around would be a wise bet.

 

Sounds like you didn't bleed the coolant system correctly or fill the rad???

why did you even have the rad out for an OMP replacement???

 

Alright...the prior owner had his mechanic test and swap lots of parts. He told me that the car was showing codes 20 and 27. Now that I swapped out the OMP, no codes are showing (nor check engine lilght). I just took the car to 6000 rpms, but the whole time, there is a bogging/sputtering present. And yes, I took the radiator out to give myself more room to work, and I also had not completely filled it. The last test drive yeilded no problems. Oil pressure is still low, around 20 while I am driving, but that could be the front cover o-ring (he has had an oil leak for a while at the OMP)...I am concerned about the hesitating while accelerating, through all rpms. The exhaust tone is very different from my 90, kind of a dull popping sound, and I am thinking that possibly the CAS may be responsible, since the guy's mechanic swapped it out. Also, the car does not smoke once warmed up, and I do know that he put 2-cycle oil in the tank while it was in limp mode. It seems there could be an easy solution to get it running smoothly...

 

This may be way off but one of mine ran like you described and I looked under the car and the cats were glowing red so I took them off after they cooled down and gutted them and that fixed my problem. Yours may be much different I would look in to it though

 

Oh...and I would like to add that the prior owner had never had a problem with this car during the last 12 years until it went into limp mode 2 weeks ago.

 

Is it possible that the car is missing due to too much oil in the gas?

I know I told the owner to mix 1 once per gallon of gas with 2-stroke oil. Now that the OMP is working in addition to the premix, it will probably be burning a decent amount of oil. It may be worth checking out the spark plugs, and filling the tank with gas just to dilute the premix some more.

When I looked at the car the owner did mention that it was popping at idle more since he added the premix.

 

Only time I've seen that in an rx-7 in was when one of the injector connections was half off. It actualy backfired on acceleration.

 

Actually, that car runs fine now. It turns out that the guy's mechanic had put the leading spark plug wires on the opposite chambers (eg-L1 coil to L2 plug). Also the OMP I replaced took the car out of limp mode. After fixing other misc. problems, the car turned out to be a great deal, with little invested...

 

Yeah, I was going to say timing

 

Crossed Leading plug wires???? That's odd. As they both fire at the same time, you can put them on either plug...It will make no difference.

 

If you are right about the leading plugs, then it must have been the T1 wire to T2 plug, and T2 wire to T1 plug. I am pretty sure, because when I replaced the OMP, the car would rev past 3000 rpms freely (whereas before it would not), but there was a terrible sputtering. When I came back home, looking at the plugs and wires, I realized that a set were not attached correctly. Swapped them, and since then on the car drives smoothly. I picked this car up expecting to put in another engine, but all it needed was an OMP, swapped plug wires, 2 mufflers and a water pump filler neck. It was a 1 owner car with all records, body great, int. perfect with leather and CD, $600 of new rubber and I only paid $1650. I will try and post pics...
Case closed for this car...(now the red 88 is another story )

 

Right on man... Good job.

 

Glad you got it fixed!