Hey all! I just recently purchased an '88 black convertible 5-speed that I have been drooling over for the last 5 or 6 years. Anyway, she's got some problems. The water temp gauge never goes more than 1-2mm above the bottom of the gauge (where it sits when off). Is this normal? The engine idles at 2k usually, sometimes at 1500-1600, and if at the lower idle, it bounces by 50-100rpm randomly; any ideas? I had to replace the alternator, but when I did, I lost the metal spacer that goes in between the mount and the alt. Is that a problem, or is it fine like that? I can't find the f#^king power steering reservoir, and the ps is squeaking like a bitch! Unless if I disconnect the motor for the windshield wipers, they come on when ever I have the key in the ignition, regardless of what position the wiper **** is set at, same speed every time, too. Lastly, I have noticed that the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs were a little low, so last night I stopped at autozone and bought some Valvoline Syn-Power brake fluid (exceeds DOT 3/4, dry boil at 500*, compatible with conventional brake fluid, etc.) and topped both reservoirs off. I almost made it home before my clutch went completely to the floor and stuck there. The fluid in the brake res is clear and looks normal, while the clutch res is filled with this murky brown/black fluid that must have been clutch fluid at one time. WTF? Please help. I love this car! I felt like this when I nursed it home last night - (me being the yellow guy; life, of course, is the green one)

 

Water temp= no should not be that low, check or replace your thermostat with an OEM Mazda thermostat.
Idle = mis-adjusted TPS or timing
Alt spacer = yes that is a problem not having one
power steering belt = adjust or replace the belt
Wipers= bad wiper switch or bad motor (have rebuilt wiper switches on my webstore if you need one)
Clutch= replace the hose and replace or rebuild the clutch master and slave cylinders.

 

the idle sounds like a nice-sized vac leak, especially the 100 rpm hunting. get some carb cleaner (or wd-40 works too), spray it around the vac lines, and if you find an area that makes the engine rev, then you've found an area with a leak.
As icemark said, the alt spacer is necessary. Otherwise your alt will move around, shred belts, and just cause all sorts of badness. If you cant find the spacer, grab a bunch of washers and build up to the correct thickness.
Murky clutch fluid in the reservior i would think would be from the seals going bad and getting destroyed in the master cyl, altho im not positive on this.

Enjoy the 'vert, i have an 88 in red thats getting a turbo motor, and i love the thing

 

Cool, I had the same thing planned. Would you recommend any sites that have a good reputation for getting a turbo-II motor from? I found this this site. I know corksport is another good place.

 

Do you know of anything else that could cause this? I looked at it today and saw that the bolt that hold the line going from the master to the slave clutch cylinder looked wet with what is possibly brake fluid. I suppose that gives more validity to the seals going bad and leaking, but I just don't understand how that turned the fluid murky.

 

Murky is cause by water being absorbed from the air and by the seals breaking down in the cynders

remember brake a clutch fluids should be changed every two years or 20,000 miles. It seldom is

 

Yep, yep, that's a definite possibility. She has 114k on the clock, and from the previous two owners I hear that it broke down often.