Coca Cola Kid

Stock 1988 RX7 convertible N/A. Purchased a year and a half ago with 40K original miles. Now has 60K miles. No problems until recently.

One day the car would not start. I had it towed to a mechanic and he used ATF to get it started.

Car was bucking badly and acting as if it was getting fuel. I replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires to plugs. The tank looked shiny and no deposits.

The bucking has stopped and now it seems to still not be making enough power.

From a dead start I have to rev the engine to get it to move. Underway, it is slow to get up to speed. The power loss is noticeable. Even underway there is a noticeable power loss. This car used to zoom zoom like were are all used to.

I built the diagnostic engine code checker and only one LED is lit as it should be.

It also has a leak in the muffler system about in the middle of the muffler but past the CAT. I can start the car and bend down and hear the noise from the muffler in the middle.

It has a rough idle with noticeable vibration when not moving.

I thought that maybe the mechanic using too much ATF might have damaged the CAT, but there is exhaust coming from the two tail pipes.

It was running about 1/4 on the temp scale, but now runs almost to the halfway point.

I pulled the connector from the boost sensor, under idle, and the engine did nothing different. Shouldn't the engine reved higher if this was done?

There are no fluid leaks under the car.

I am thinking:
fried CAT
bad fuel injectors
bad fuel filter
bad boost sensor
bad seals
?
?

I see no point in keep buying parts that it does not need or will not cure the problem.

Thanks,
Coca Cola Kid

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Our 90 vert acted in very much the same way last year. We pulled the exhaust and it ran fine. Cat was clogged. Takes maybe 30 minutes to remove the exhaust. It would be worth a try. Doesnt cost anything but time.

freemanrx7

My TII had really bad clogged cats and it idled fine. Not saying this isn't the problem just look elsewhere.

Check the compression in both rotors first!

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

remove the cats and crank to car to see if it idles better. Pressure test the coolant system also since you said its running a good bit warmer now(I dont like that you said he used ATF to unflood it).

Coca Cola Kid

I read this page
http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/faqidle.html

I turned the air adjust screw all the way clockwise and it does not stall, but barely runs. The above link states that this is a vacuum leak.

Now the question is which one?

C-CK

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Using ATF to unflood the car is OK.I prefer regular Motor oil though.ATF smokes alot after you get the Engine started.

duo2999

iTrader: (1)

wait, you plugged it in to the right harness? that sounds like its the harness near the air box.

the correct harness is next to the battery. what supposed to happen is that both LEDs are supposed to flash when the ignition is turned on, and they only blink three times at first, which is just a default thing its doing, and then they will stay off or start flashing which indicate certain codes.

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=39&co=1&vi=1

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1

those are the only places i know where to plug in the LED tester.

Coca Cola Kid

Yup, I did both tests and they are normal, forgot to mention that.

I will not have the chance to do anything else until I am off on Tuesday.

C-CK

Coca Cola Kid

Rear rotor has zzzzzzzero compression.

Anyone near South Carolina that rebuilds them?

How much in parts to do it myself?