'88 Rebuild - up and running before the end of summer
 

Hello all. I've owned my 7 for about three years now, and have worked on it here and there, mostly aesthetic stuff. Now, I'm about to start my biggest project yet. The rebuild.

It overheated and fried the water seals, so I'm going to try and do an amazing job on this build. I hope to make the engine bay as clean as the rest of mt car. I'm going to try and get rid of as much as possible to simplify and really clean it up. I'm sure I'm going to need assitance on the reassembly, so I'll be looking to you guys.

It actually has been rebuilt before and was running good untill the thermostat went. :icon_tdow

Anyway, here she is

Here's a good/clean pic
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...lyWaxed008.jpg


Dirty, neglected and not running
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0118.jpg


The problem...
Hopefully there is no warping :confused:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0106.jpg


And here are some before pics
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0123.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0125.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0127.jpg


My plans aren't to bold. Just want to get it running right and looking clean. Maybe I'll consider a racing beat full exhaust, but I'll have to see how much the rebuild is going to cost. I'm sure I'll do a few small things along the way as well, and will post on here. This is my first rebuild so I may need help. I'm taking mass pictures too so I think that will help. Any advice would ba appreciated. :)

Here are some pics from my first day of stripping. Not much, but it's a start, and I only worked for a short while after work. All the intake is out, the intercooler and blow off valve, radiator fan and shroud, alternator, all the easy stuff. I'm bagging, grouping, and labeling everything as I go though. I'm trying to keep this organized. I want to do it right.

I'm planning on relocating the battery, getting an intake, and getting rid of the power steering all to simplify and make space. Thats nothing big but it makes the bay look much cleaner. But, how is the steering with a manual rack? What are some thoughts and opinions.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0133.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0128.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0130.jpg

The turbo!
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...d/100_0132.jpg

I'm pretty much in the same boat as you. My car looks great, just lacks in the engine department :P My simplifying plans, for my 88 T2 was and are removal of AC (done), depowered steering rack (done and a lot easier than it sounds), removal of most of the rats nest, and an electric fan. I got lucky and got a full mazda oem seal kit for really cheap. Overall i estimate my cost with buying new rubber lines and the rest of the gaskets i might be touching $1200 on this rebuild, but that is with everything for the internals.

Getting the engine out is not hard at all. I bagged and labeled just like you, you should be fine. Taking everything off the engine and apart has been relatively easy, the only difficult part i expect is how to properly set the seals and clearance them to a specific size. I wish you luck, and as a first time rebuilder also, it's not a hard task to rebuild these engines :icon_tup:

Your car is immaculate!! :icon_tup: :icon_tup:

Im Right There With You
 

yea im right there with you on the 88 rebuild except im poor and my body isnt very clean or un dented my ava is a good befor picture any hint or tips or problems you had ob the way would be most greatly appreated ohh and could you tell what kind of rims those are ive been looking for something like it cause i was planing on murdering my car (PITCH BLACK) and those rims would look very nice with my mental image

ohhh btw did that turbo have pre exsisting coolent in it or was that from stripping it ( from the pic it looks like coolent might have been gangreen lol)

It's been nearly a year since I converted from power to manual steering and I can't remember a single instance when I was sorry...and every time I pop the hood I appreciate the extra space/lack of clutter.
I deleted the AC at the same time, so the difference in the bay was quite noticeable.

That was from when I took off the upper radiator hose. I'm pretty sure some spilled into the open TID. Not much though, just a splash.

I have my first question. Inorder to take out the AC, it has to be depressurized. The car doesn't run, so does this mean I have to get someone to make a house call or can I get the tools to do it.

Edit:

They are actually a replica off ebay, I believe of an old motegi wheel. They are decent wheels. I'm considering getting different wheels soon anyway if you would be interested you could take them real cheap.

Anyone know on the A/C?

Why are you disconnecting the A/C? You don't need to, to pull the engine. I would try and avoid de pressurizing the a/c system unless you absolutely have to, especially if you still have R12 in there. Legally, and technically, you should have someone "reclaim" the R12, but realistically you can just open it up and vent it to atmosphere, just keep your body parts away from it and do it in a well ventilated area.
But, it's going to cost a lot of money to refill it. So, think twice before you dump it.

I see. Can I remove the pump without depressurizing the system? I really want the block stripped for cleaning and paint. Sorry if I sound like a newb, its my first rebuild.

You don't really have to remove the pump, just take it off the bracket and lay it on the side without disconnecting the hoses. You just need it out of the way to get the motor out. If you wanted to depressurize it it would recommend getting it towed to an a/c place and doing it there. The gas will fog your whole neighborhood if you do it at home as i've been told.

A shop would be glad to take that r12 off your hands lol. The stuff is valuable and hard to come by but anyways its easy enough to just let it go to the atmosphere nobody's gonna know. I seriously doubt it would fog up your neighborhood...

Well, I guess I'll update and put up some more pics. I've been working slow. I work full time and there are so many distractions on the weekends.. My dad has this lake house and I'm always down there, so most of my work has been brief after work. But, finally I stayed home and got some good work done with some friends. Considering the time I have put in it, its going easier than expected. I have stripped about everything. I probably didn't need too, but I have never pulled an engine and I don't want to somehow break something. If I can use my friends hoist, I'm going to get it out on sunday.


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0148.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0157.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0156.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0153.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0164.jpg


Here are the manifolds. They seem really built up. Could I send them off and have them polished or something? Is there anything I can do about it myself? Sorry the pictures are not the greatest, I only have a cheap camera...


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0165.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0166.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0167.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0168.jpg

Awesome TII man, it's so clean.

As far as the manifolds go, If you soak them and do some heavy duty scrubing they might look decent. Or you can get them media blasted and they'll look brand new. The shop that that ceramic coated my turbo manifold blasted it before hand.....actually u might wanna look into ceramic coating if you're going to send them out.

Also, is emissions removal an option for you?

it's a 20 year old cast iron turbo manifold. Just scrub the big junks of crap off of it, inspect for any warping or cracks, and move on to something else. You did say you want the car running by the end of the summer right? And you don't get that much time to work on it? Don't get sidetracked.

^ good point, I didn't even read that portion.

In Virginia there is no emission testing for inspection or anything. Not that I'm aware of. It probably wont be my daily anymore either. What other problems might I have ( with legality )?


The manifolds, I don't really want to send off, and cleaning probably will be sufficient. If anyone has any tips or anything. I'll try some engine cleaner/degreaser or something.

Got the engine out on Sunday. :icon_tup: Oil and coolant spilled out of the housings when we were moving it. I doubt I have any of the soft seals left. No good. I couldn't get my hands on an engine lift. My friend who I was going to use was out of town, and any rental places were closed on sunday. So, I had to redneck it out. Not the best idea I know, but it went smoothly. Here are a few pictures I took right after. Nothing too interesting yet.


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0171.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0172.jpg


I'll be getting into it this week, getting to the problem, and ordering parts. I'm going on vacation when the parts will be in shipment too so that worked out nicely.

Where can I get the pilot bearing and dowlpin puller? Are they common tools?

I know for a fact you can rent the pilot bearing puller from autozone if you put down a refundable when returned deposit.

Well in that case, don't let not nan-one of them emissions components sneak its way back into your engine bay. Add some blockoff plates to your parts list (or trace the gaskets and cut your own out of some decent gauge aluminum). There's a good emissions removal writeup here http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html


There are also tips on engine breakdown/ cleaning proceedures on the aforelinkedto site.:icon_tup:

^^
Helpful post, thanks. I remember seeing that emissions page back when I was searching about doing the rebuild. Its good, and I didn't save it when I came across it.


Also, what kind of PSI should I use on my impact wrench for the flywheel nut? I borrowed a tank and wrench from work. I think the tank is 125 PSI and the wrench maybe around 250 Ib. I don't think that will be enough. That sucker is on at like 300 Ib if I'm correct. I gave it a shot tonight with about 120 PSI and it didn't budge.

Well, this has turned out to be very slow. I was hoping to be done this week, or atleast getting the engine back in the car. I'm only like two weeks behind where I wanted to be though. And, that was mostly because of small snags here and there with tools or what not. Anyway, the parts are on their way and if they come early this week I should be able to get the block back together before I head back to school.

I bought a gassket kit and front/main seals from mazdatrix. Also I broke three side seals when plucking the rotors and a dowl pin I broke trying to pull. I'm getting those too. I need to know if the mazdatrix gasket kit comes with the rotor oil control ring "O" rings? I want to replace all the rubber seals/gaskets. I think I can reuse all my apex seals, springs and what not.


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0242.jpg


Here are the housings after a light cleaning. If anyone sees anything that looks bad let me know. I don't know what to look for like some of you guys. I need to get some precise measing tools to check for warping before I reassemble.


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0191.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0192.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0194.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0197.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0199.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0201.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0203.jpg


The rotors cleaned up nicely I thought.


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0243.jpg


Sorry to be making so many seemingly pointless posts. Figure you guys might catch something I wouldn't from the pictures. Say something if I'm doing something wrong. :icon_tup:

Kudos to "red-necking" the engine out of the car. I've done it with friends a few without any problems :) Good times.

The Mazdatrix gasket kit does not come with the rotor oil control ring o-rings. Totally different item to buy. Mazdatrix does sell them, and Atkins sells the Viton ones. Definitely something to buy new. Apex seals, I recommend, only on my searching and reading, buy new. Seems the engine builders will agree just buy new. Most everything else can be reused, which looks like you kept organized. :)

Also I broke these and I"m not sure where to get a replacement. It looks like oil injector lines..

I think its these: "Oil Injector Lines for Fuel Injected Engines" about halfway down the page but I don't know what to buy exactly.
MAZDATRIX

Here are pictures.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0250.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0248.jpg

ya those are the oil lines for the injectors.

check the cast iron around the groove for the orange coolant o-ring on all of your irons.

make sure there are no chips or gaps.

So, I realize I wanted this done by the summer and its now november. That goal was set because I am off at school and can work on it zero, meaning I haven't done a thing since august. Anyway, I plan to assemble the block over thanksgiving. So, I have the atkins video, and they call for RTB black sealant. What kind of sealant is it exactly so I can get it or something similar in the morning. I probably should chang the thread title...

how did u clean your rotors?

They are talking about Black RTV. go down to advance auto parts or autozone and they will show you where it's at.

Also definitely check all the coolant o rings to make sure part of the iron didn't break away.

^^
The irons are fine I checked them well.

But, today I got through the assembly but I sheared off a couple bolts. A few on the rear stationary gear and one of the front cover bolts. So, where should I get these? I was just going to go to NAPA and get whatever they have using the thread testers, but I figure I should I ask here and maybe order them online.

I got everything I wanted to get done over my break finished, and I can't work on it for about another two weeks. So if I need to order these bolts thats not a problem.

nice dude clean car. i know what u mean about the rebuild taking so long mine seemed like it took 4ever

I just let them sit briefly in some engine degreaser, brushed off what I could with a stiff brush and then used 600 or 800 grit sandpaper and wet sanded the faces.

I didnt see you address the OMP/MOP lines you broke. I followed this writeup and they worked out great.

Good luck!

Thanks, I think I will do that. That is a great write up. :icon_tup:

I wasn't too worried about that yet. Starting december 12, I have a month to work on this thing. Its all I have to do, no school or work. Planning on working almost everyday and hopefully get her atleast close to running. :)

Could anyone recommend where I could get new hardware? Just for the rear stationary gear and front cover.

The torque wrench I have isn't very acurate under 20 Ibs so I think it just didn;t register the 12-17 Ibs those bolts needed and A few sheared off.

I haven't posted any of my recent work in a long time.. I have the block together and I am still get everything in the bay cleaned up and removed. I still have some minor stuff that I want to do, but I am getting anxious to just throw the block in there and see if I can get it running. But, I'll be patient and get done what I want.

One thing I still need to do is decide on removing the power steering. pretty sure I want to but I don't have a manual rack. What are recommendations on one and where to buy? would like to do this without the engine in for ease of access.


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0298.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0300.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0301.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0309.jpg

Looks like it's coming along really good. :icon_tup: If you can't find a manual rack anywhere, it is possible to de-power the power rack.
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...=291&co=1&vi=1

Electrical/wiring question
 

I want to know what thses to wiring connectors/plugs go too. The first one Im thinking is AC. Since I removed my AC I want to get rid of the wiring as well. The second I'm talking about the two towards the brake stuff up by the firewall.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0322.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0326.jpg

Engine in tomorrow?

dude yur doing good i just got a turbo block out of a junk yard and i want to rebuild as a back up engine but does ne one have experience with the light weight /shaved rotors? i dont remember if mazdatrix or racing beat makes them

Haha yeah. Glad to see you got roped into the RX7 club. Hopefully icking up the hoist in the morning.

I decided to spend the money to do some mods I was going to do after I got it back up and running. Since its going so slow I figured I better just do it now or I might not get around to it.

I just bought a front mount that should come on friday. I've been combing the for sale section looking for a 2.5" dp and a presilencer or high flow cat. If anyone has one they want to get rid of let me know. I'll be making some kind of more performance intake. I'm also going to port my wastegate. I removed emissions today. I'm sure there will be some other things needed as well; fuel pump, tunning, FCD, ect. And I have been searching about the taurus and fiero E-fans..

hey looks like your build is coming along very nicely. its eerie to see an exact replica of my car doing the exact same thing i did lol. same color on engine and all.

i pulled my AC and PS and havent looked back since. ya the AC coming out gets to be a pain but it has made everything so simple in my Bay.

as for the PS i havent found a single reason not to pull it out. i love it being gone. you get an awesome feel for the road.
i need a new pic of my engine bay this one is a lil old
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...II/engine4.jpg

and this was when i first got the car.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...TII/airbox.jpg

^^
Thats pretty crazy. Thats almost exactly what I had in mind of my enfine bay looking like when I'm finished. Looks really good, a little bit of inspiration. Where did you get that intercooler? Because I just oredered a generic ebay one and hope it can fit that nicely.



Some more updates.

When cleaning my bay, alot of paint stripped off on the frame rails so I cleaned it and repainted it back. What do you guys think? I think it looks fine. I didn't want to paint the whole bay because I didn't want to have to remove everything


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0323.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0328.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0330.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0348.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0347.jpg

Engine is in
 

So I finially got the block in yesterday. Alot of help from M50e30, thanks man. Cost me $45 bucks to rent a hoist. Made a rookie mistake though and didn't have the clutch alined perfectly, so we struggled for a while. Untill a family member said to check the clutch. So we did and realigned it and it took another maybe 20 minutes to get it in, after a couple hours of being baffled.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0349.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0353.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0354.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0355.jpg

Port the turbo, get some exhaust, and fit the intercooler/piping and we are good to go!

Intercooler came in on friday. It looks like a pretty good peice, and the piping looks decent as well. Came with a cheap blow off valve that I will use for a while. I was also impressed with the couplings.

The core size is 18" x 12" x 3"
End to end is 25"
Inlet/outlet 2.5"
piping is 2.5"

I did a quick mock up to see how it would fit in the bumper. Saw a guy on here put one in this spot, what do you guys think?


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0362.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0367.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0370.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/100_0368.jpg
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