Why do a compression check? I mean, the motors there one way or another. I am not gonna do another swap anytime soon. If the compression is low, which doesn't feel like it, then I guess I'll have it but would rather not know about it. I think the water pump is leaking. We are gonna do a liquid gasket sealant deal on that to see if it fixes is, also planned for tomorrow is adjusting the timing. Hopefully that should make the car driveable for my evening date.

 

Dude , Slow Down forget about your date and do this right. If you try to half *** this thing you are only going to pay later. Do the comp check and seal the pump right. We are taklking about the coolant sysytem here, remember heat is not your friend with rotarys. One good temp spike and goodbye. You need a good baseline to start to tune that new motor right, so do the check and if it is ok set your timming and work on from there.

 

So your saying it's not ok to use liquid gasket on the water pump? We're gonna spend all day on this. I'm just trying to solve the problem of my hard to start and rough idle.

 

I have never been a big fan of liquid stuff. If it come with a gasket from mazda, you tell me which is better. Check out this stuff http://www.mazdatrix.com/b9wpumps.htm

 

You get any of that stuff in you system and you could have blockage and get poor coolant flow. Heat = problems

 

There's no way we're gonna get any of it in the system. We used it on the upper intake manifold and someone from a local store recommended it because that's what they did with their water pump on a 12A dunebuggy. I will go order the water pump gasket from mazda but for now it looks like liquid gasket is the way it's gonna have to be unless anyone can think of any reasons why it will for sure not work.

 

Ok, it appears we had the O2 sensor wire and the Water Temperature gauge wire switched. We are going to fix that tomorrow. Hopefully that will help with performance as well as being able to see the temperature of the engine. After putting silicone sealant on the water pump, it no longer leaks and seems to work fine. We are getting stalling at idle now. The rough idle is gone because we took the O2 sensor wire off of the water temperature sensor, BUT it is stalling. We're guessing the stalling is due to the timing being off. Also, we have to start the car by pulling the fuel pump plug first then putting it on once the car revs. This will probably be necessary until we get the S-AFC hooked up to the wiring harness. Please let me know if you see any logic or errors in what I am saying so I can know we are doing the right things. Oh, BTW the other problem is the running lights won't stop frying fuses now. We don't know the problem for sure but we're gonna replace the headlight switch tomorrow with one we just happen to have off of a parts car. Hopefully it will fix it but if it doesn't we may need some hints. Thanks for your input.

 

^

 

vacuum leak causes it to die, but will stay started if you give it gas.

 

Yes, this could be possible, I'm also thinking the timing is soooo retarted that it's not firing all the gas causing it to stall due to flooding. Also, we don't have the little bolt in the BAC valve for some reason so we're gonna go to the junk yard today and get one, hopefully that will fix something. One more thing you guys can really help on is letting me know exactly what color wires go to the
1. BAC valve
2. O2 sensor
3. Water Temp Gauge.

thx.

 

bump

 

The BAC has a B/W or black and white stripe wire and a L/G or blue and green stripe wire. The 02 wire should be a grey shielded wire. It does get discolored in the engine bay. The wire that goes to the water temp gauge unit, next to the oil pressure sensor, is a yellow wire with a white stripe

 

Where can I find out the exact colors of the wires from the ECU and what they go to?

 

Wiring schematicS from the free manual at http:www//iluvmyrx7.com used with a section in the Fuel Section that deals with the CONTROL UNIT i.e the ECU. Tells you what each pin does on the ECU.EDIT: http://www.iluvmyrx7.com