Heres the deal, i was driving my 7 last night, and all of a sudden it lost power (i thought it died or something) so i pull over, and notice the engine is still running, so i tried to rev it, and it only revved up to 1800 rpm, and it had a hell of a time getting there, so i turned off my 7, waited like 30 seconds, and it started and ran fine, then about 30 seconds to a minute later, it did the same thing, so i repeated this process for about a mile until i got home, it seems to only do its deal after I have been driving it for a while and it is nice and warmed up.

does anyone have any idea what the hell is going on, my daily driver just blew up, so i am forced to drive my 7, i am off until Saturday, so any help getting this problem under control by then would be greatly appreciated

 

have you adjusted ANYTHING under the hood?

anything at all?

I bought a FC that needed some work once, people had already played with all the screws under the hood, one of them the TPS thinking it was the idle I suppose- adjusted that and it was fine.

car would idle fine, drive ok cold- then when it got hot I had almost no power.

 

The inability to rev at WOT is puzzling. You might want to follow the ECU diagnostic procedure and check your sensors.

I don't know what series you have, but my '91 correctly determined that I had a loose wire on the Intake air temperature sensor once.

The simplest thing to check would be the fuel filter and other fuel delivery components.

It could also be the fuel pump relay (only runs while cranking).

 

I have a 88 Na Convertible (13b obviously), as i mentioned above my daily driver blew up (it was a 97 sable Gs, the god damn engine seized up, and it only had 70K on it)
I found out what causes the problem, when i drive my car for a long time (30min+) and then let it sit for like 20min, come back, then start it the rpm gauge rapidly bounces from 900-1800 (with the gas peddle fully pushed in), it idles perfectly when acting up, but it only seems to do it after it was running, then if i let it sit for a few hours, it runs fine, i ran my car all around Jefferson county WI for like 4hours with no problems, but as soon as I turned it off, and let it sit for like 20 min it started its crap, i have only adjusted the idle (the one by the left strut tower) screw (i followed the instructions in the manual), other than that it has new plug wires, new plugs, fresh oil/filter, new air filter, good oil pressure, good compression, and a good running temp, there is a vacuum leak its not too bad) i have tried disconnecting various things while it is running to try to track down the problem, but i haven't had any luck i will try replacing the fuel filter, but i don't think it is fuel related (unless the fuel pump is crapping out when it get used then sits for a while) who knows though i have seen stranger things

 

It sounds like one of three things to me:
Bad coolant temp sensor
Bad intake air temp sensor
Poor compression

 

a coolant temp sensor can make it do that?, like i said it only does it after driving it then letting it sit, i am almost tempted to go to the dark side, and slap in a 350, damn thing is pissing me off

 

i was looking online, and i happened to see a Air Cleaner Temperature Sensor, would that have abything to do with it?

 

I installed a new fuel pump, fuel filter (its getting correct fuel pressure when it does its thing, i installed a gauge to monitor it), I haven't tried replacing any sensors yet, replacing the fuel pump/filter seems not to have helped

 

Make sure the AFM is pluged in tightly and the connection is clean. Also check the spark plugs and wires.

 

so can a plugged cat take off the pipe see if the cat has chunks taken out of it

 

could i just replace it with a straight pipe, or pound all the crap out of it (assuming that it is the one with the grid pattern and not the *****), or is there some reason that I shouldn't do that (other than emissions)

 

You could just gut the catalytic converter. Theoretically, that could be the problem...


I'd double check the resistance on your TPS and the thermoswitch on the waterpump housing (sensor with green plug) as well...

 

I probably have not read this thread carefully enough so pardon me if this was covered. Here is whats happening. One of the Black plastic plungers on the TPS is getting stuck. This only happens when the car has been driven until its hot as hell and turned off for a few minutes and then cranked again. One of my RX7s had this problem and the TPS itselt was fine. It just needed some lube. Another RX7 has this problem and in addition to sticking it was also bad and throwing codes.

 

I will have to look into these "plungers", i just did gut the cats (took me like 4 hours to drop the exhaust, in the mud to top things off) and when i took the exhaust down that pipe that goes from the air pump to the cat broke off at the cat, do i need to fix this (i plan on plugging the hole on the cat so i don't have a exhaust leak), or can i just let it blow out air, and sort of put that pipe down by the exhaust, as i said before i don't need to be emissions checked, and i don't really want to mess around with a doing a emissions removal

I probably should have mentioned this before, i have no idea if this has anything to do with this, but my rx7 was sitting for a year before i bought it, i found a guide on the internet for resurrecting a stored rx7, and did that, it ran like crap when i first got it, and the more i have ran it, the better it has run (until it started acting up)

 

It seems to stopped its not revving crap for now (i still need to re adjust the tps, it looks like someone was messing with it, the screw is cranked down all the way), but if i red line it, then let it drop back down to regular idling speed, it shoots out a white cloud of smoke, any one have any idea what that is about, it doesn't smoke any other time (other than start up for a minute, but its barley noticeable) is there any way of adjusting the oiling system, or is it supposed to do that with gutted cats?