I have the oppourtunity to get a 1988 10th Anniv Turbo (white/black leather).
This car has 90,000 KM on it, and is suppossedly perfect (it doesn't run currently, a coil or something, which will be fixed before sale, but other than that, I didn't see ANYTHING wrong with it).

It's bone stock, except for tinted windows (I don't think those are stock)

I've really liked the RX-7, and would have got one for my first car, but I got a really really good deal (or so I thought at the time) on a fiero V6.
well, the fiero is a pile, and has cost me like $4500 in the past year, so I'm dumping it. (if anyone here wants one that's almost been fixed up, cheap, lemme know)

Anyways, what would be a decent price to pay for this vehicle? (assuming it runs/etc ok)
The seller is asking $6000/obo (CDN funds) (that's about 3500 USD), and that seems like alot for a 14 year old car, even if it just has 90k on it.

Anything I should look out for? (rotary specific, I'm going to have the car fully checked out by my mechanic)

What do these things get for gas mileage? My fiero gets around 20, (4:11 gearing and agressive cam)

Do they have LSD or no?

How hard is it to install a rear seat?

Thanks.

 

$3500 for a TII is not bad at all. I wouldn't complain. Just remeber that the turbos can have a lot of problems. I'm not good on specifics, but the base price he's offering is not bad at all. Remeber how much these cars cost when they were brand new. I bet you can talk him down to about $3k, though. Still not a bad price.

 

how much did these cost when new?

I just did some looking on the net and can't find anything.
I'm guessing 20-25kish?

 

One thing you may not know is that there were only 1500 10th Anniversaries produced.

Yes they do have an LSD rear, and a rear seat install is a simple affair. You just need the seat and belts out of a 2+2 car.

 

for gas mileage about 17 in town and 25 or so on the highway

 

In Canada they listed for about $36k but I think the average transactional price was a couple of thousand lower.Unless your mechanic knows RX-7s he won't be much use on the motor.Make sure you have a good cash reserve(at least $2k) to put the car in good order unless you are into band-aid stuff.Once you get it up to snuff it should be good for a few years of cheap motoring.Both my turboIIs have been relatively trouble free after I got them sorted.Just tires and gas!

 

$2k to put into the car?

For what?

Its (stupid apostrophy key just quit working) MINT!

Just some light wear on the leather seats and a few small missing interior pieces.
The car will be in good running condition before I make the purchase.

 

I live in Canada and I paid $4500 for my 87 T2. its got 158kms on it, and only has a few very minor problems. i considered $4500 to be an excellent deal for it. I would pay $6000 for an AE, but you should still try and talk him down

 

If it is mint get it. I looked for years and settle on one with more KM and paid more

Ian Skacel
88 10th AE

 

10th AE's had bronze tinted windows stock.

If the car has been taken care of and you don't plan to do lots of modding, then it will last a long time. When you decide to do some performance modifications, don't cut corners because that's when things go bad. If you modify it properly and buy things in the right order, you will have a pretty solid car.

Gas mileage is about 16-20 miles per gallon average depending on how you drive it.

$3500 is a very good price for one in good condition. The ones I see around here usually go for $4000-$4500. Maybe $3000 cash in his face will make him go down.

Good luck!

 

Terrh,

Hey if you drove a fierro before your going to love the Turbo II 10th AE.

Better handling, acceleration, stiffer chassis, smoother ride, better international following from manufacturers/tuners/enthusiests, better selection of performance upgrades, lots of addons & accessories, and the rotary engine makes more reliable HP from lest boost than other cars.

-- vaughnc

 

allright!

I'm speaking with the owner tomorrow
and with the bank wednesday
I've gotta pay off a few things first (will be done by end of this month)
and then, provided they've got it purring, and I've got the fundage from the bank, and my mechanic says OK, I'll buy it.

Is it true that rotaries have no real redline (e.g. I can rev the motor to 8500RPM and it won't care?)

 

Actually, the motor does have a redline, but that is usually fuel cut-off related.

In fact, my FC loves to redline. I try to do it at least once every time I go through the gears.

 

DUDE!! get the car even if its not running!!
there are so many people who can help fix it it's unreal!
If I were you I wouldn't mess with the mecanic. if he doesn't specialize in the '7's he wont know much of nothing about it. once you've seen how they work and what to do to them it's a sinch. took my entire engine apart awhile back and as long as you mark what your supposed to it would be easy as pie! I say get it and if you need help... EVERYONE here would love to help!
thats what we are here for. hit me with an e-mail and I can tell you where to get some of the best stuff for the cheapest prices. (i.e. engine!!!!)
peace out,
peacekeeper

 

I'd jump on that. Of course, I'm biased:

 

I think I'm going to go for it......
the second I can, I'm buying that car.

Thanks!

 

$3500 hundred US is a really good price man, get it before someone else does. Now I wish I lived in Canada, but then its also cold as Christmas up there.

 

yeah, it is.
cold as hell here
was only 55F today

 

Yeah... and it felt like summer.


This area sucks for mechanics. Windsor Mazda is a joke. London is good.
The ONLY thing I use the dealership for is getting the occasional part if I can't find it ANYWHERE else.
You can learn a lot on this forum, and if you have a garage, it's best off to work on them yourself. Once you figure out any problems with the help of all these guys here (doesn't take long!) You can just fix it yourself- They aren't the hardest cars to work on- but they do have a lot of electrical and emmisions related systems.
Good luck, and let me know if you want me to look at it first.
Oh- Try to do a compression test first- before you buy it.... PLEASE!!!
Take the check valve off the tester- and look for three even, indentical bumps of at LEAST 80 PSI while cranking the engine- check both front an rear rotors... any variation in the bumps by more than 1 or 2 PSI spells touble.
Oh- I wouldn't pay 6 G's right off the bat- Go there with 4500-5000 cash... 6 is a little high- unless it is right of the showroom floor.

 

yeah...
I hope it holds up, so I can get my honda running so the kid that's been looking at it will buy it and get it outta my yard!

hehehe

I don't have a garage, but if the weather is good, I've got no problem working on cars...
I think that when I get closer to knowing how soon the car will be available, I'll talk to you about coming down to look at it.
I'll have it e-tested and safety checked before I make an offer... if it don't past e-test it's not worth more than whatever I was thinking of-cost of making it pass.
It's not right off showroom floor, but pretty close.
Except for smoker ick, minor wear on the leather seats, and a few dents, it's pretty close.
Once I talk to him, and the bank, I'll get into contact with you.

 

ok...

I spoke with seller (well, actually, seller's mechanic, apparently the seller doesn't want buyers knowing his phone number, but whatever)
Car's price is Make An Offer
Last summer, he was driving it, went to a stoplight, and the motor stalled.
He started it back up, and it was running really rough (like it was missing). Drove it to mechanics, parked it there. (less than a mile away)
Hasn't been moved since.
He thinks it's a coil, but I convinced him that an apex might be gone.
BamBam - I'm going to message you, I'd like to see when you can look at it with me
I'll do compression testing, and go from there as to what I'll offer. If it tests poorly, (an apex is gone or something) I'll offer around $1200 I think
if not, well, maybe I'll still offer that... . I might get lucky!
hehehe
What's a good motor rebuild cost?
Does porting (light street port) affect gas milage significantly? I'll be making a 4000MI trip early this summer in the car (winnipeg meet) and a 3500MI trip later this year (moving out west)

 

Buy it.That's a really good deal for a 10th.I just got mine about 3 months ago and I had been looking for one for about 4 years in good shape.I love this car and I've owned 6 rx7's in the past 15 years.go for it!

 

if i were you i would buy it no matter what. if its clean. if the motor is blown talk him down if you can. you could always get a dealer motor.

 

yay my first thread!

I bought the 10AE :P

And even still own it.

wow 7 years ago, thats a long time.

 

I was reading this thinking go man go! Then i realized the thread was from 02. haha. Glad you ended up with the 10AE. Maybe some day i'll get one, or a TII for that matter lol. What have you done to it over the years? She still running hard?