Hmmmm. Interesting dates on the Rtek! Your car is fueled by Satan!
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Haha, I'd noticed that before, can't hurt right?
Crappy old TID and newer leak free intake w/o cold air box, at this point the TMIC has been bypassed w/ PVC for troubleshooting: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/101_3159.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3374.jpg TB. UIM, LIM and turbo Removal: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/101_2369.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3462.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3470.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3474.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3479.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3476.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3481.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ownpipeoff.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3484.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3484.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3492.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3491.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3497.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3501.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...90928738_0.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3508.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3583.jpg |
so while we were fixing the idle I was getting more concerned about the overall quality of rubber hoses, wires, seals in the engine bay and thats what pretty much made me decide to redo the entire engine bay. The car has a new motor installed when I got it but all of th other wstuff was still from '87. Plus my MC was leaking onto the frame rail and ate the paint off, the trans also needs to be replaced so this was just the right time to remove the engine and rebuild from the frame up in the engine bay.
So I plan on redoing just about all of the vac hoses, oil lines, coolant lines, gaskets, grommets, inspect/repair harness, turbo is going to BNR for Stage 1 upgrade, NGK F/Fx and Greddy bspec will go in then. General Condition: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3570.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3568.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3574.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...100_3618-1.jpg Stripping: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3627.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3650.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3656.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...100_3658-1.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...100_3663-1.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3665.jpg This is my first attempt at major work on this TII. I have swapped motors in American cars but this is the first rotary restoration for me personally.:fingersx: |
Nice!!!
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Threads like these make me drool!
Keep sharing! |
Thanks guys!
When I brought it home it had just had the freshly rebuilt (by Mazda) engine installed, it had the straight exhaust and an intake but the rest was bone stock. I initially just wanted to keep it all stock but replace what needed to be replaced and improve on the fuel system for preventative measures. But like I said, once I was done with the minor repairs, I couldn't help but be paranoid of a what was going on where I couldn't see. I didn't want an oil dline to let go or the stock turbo to die and kill the new motor so I started this project to get down to the bottom and build back up. I have a bunch of new parts that are waiting for the right time to be installed, but I am only able to work on this car on Saturday afternoons ans Sundays so it takes me a minute to make some progress. New TB, UIM and LIM: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3516.jpg |
$$$
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^
What about it? I use $$$ the same way everyone else uses it, I work 6 days a week and then blow it on my cars. Hahahaha. but seriously, The TB, UIM and LIM I got for $120 shipped to my door from a forum member. I should have said, "Like new" or "reconditioned" as they are used, and still almost 20yrs old, just blasted and cleaned real good. My LIM was starting to peel inside and I couldn't pass up the deal on all three. My Old Peeling LIM: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3438.jpg Good thing all those flakes came off when I hit it with compressed air when it was removed from the car huh?? So this is what I got for the engine bay - Tal Strip, Duplicolor Ceramic Primer and Low Gloss Black Paint,and some Rubberized Underspray for the trannsmission tunnel, I was curious as to how the rubber spray would work, figured I'd test it out: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3590.jpg Some new parts - OEM Front and Rear main seals, Atkins solid thermal pellet, OEM MOP vacuum spider, OEM rear iron to TB coolant line, Block off plates, double belted alternator pulley: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3673.jpg I still have all of the new gaskets, grommets, o-rings, OEM MOP lines and OEM thermostat on their way from Mazdatrix.......also I just bought my first Mig welder as well. it's like Christmas in July for me only it's really a gift to me from me for my B-day in two weeks...I'll use whatever excuse I can... |
Looks fantastic so far. How fast does that paint stripper start working?....do you have to strip it in stages/ multiple applications of it?
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This is the first time I have used Tal Strip and I learned real quick that a thick layer of it works better than a thin layer. I just brushed it on generously and with in 10 mins it's bubbling and by 20 the paint is falling off almost by itself. You must use enough to keep the surface wet throughout the process. It was $30 for the jug and I think I'll have plenty left over after this.
Sometimes the paint that is in really good shape might need a second application for the tough spots if you use too little Tal Strip, so I went back and just did some spots over. I'd lay it down on one fender and then go to brush it on the other fender and scrape( w/ a screw driver or putty knife) the first while the second was bubbling. Here's a tip, have water nearby so you can rinse your hands/arms/face off when you get it on you. It takes a minute or two for the burning to start and then it kinda kicks up to "Ouch!!!" real quick. I imagine I could've used a full body suit and face mask but I found that a jug of water and a wet rag seemed to keep me from getting chemical burns, it was just funny at times burning but trying to get more done before running for the hose. I just rinsed the surfaces with water and then carb cleaner to make it safe to touch again. I am also glad that I laid down plastic under the car to catch all of the paint peelings and scrapings, probably not good stuff for my well water. I'd highly recommend using something along these lines for this type of work, might not be necessary but I am confident the results will be of a higher quality than if i didn't strip it all first. It also allows you to check the condition of the metal under the paint, in my case there are only one or two spots that need to be wire wheeled due to some surface rust (under the batTery tray and where the MC was leaking on the frame rail). |
thats looking real nice. 4 bolts and the wiper motor will come out. arm pops off the back...like a ball and socket. dont get paint on the wiper wire harness connector. the heat shield above the down pipe comes off pretty easy too. might want to shine it up (its aluminum) paint that area and undercoat it. it will help prevent rust and help deaden engine noise. might want to weld up all the seams while you have them bare metal. sorry if i said anything u already know. post more pics of your progress! cant wait to see what that engine bay looks like all done up and pretty like
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Don't be sorry for saying anything. I was gonna try to remove as much as possible from the bay, I just hadn't taken the time to finish yet so thats good info for the wiper motor and shield. I also want to get that power brake booster thing out of the way- looks like a cotter pin and four bolts from under the dash will do that. That'll clear most of the junk out of the way and make the job easier I think.
I'm open to input on what do do here, I actually have some questions for you guys if you'd like to chime in constructively. 1) For the engine harness, I was planning on doing a general inspection/repair/rewrap and was curious what tape you guys had the best experience with wrapping the engine harness. I was thinking about this stuff: Self-Fusing High Heat Engine Harness Wrap 2)Also when removing some emissions items, I was planning on keeping the twin scroll solenoid and the fpr solenoid from the rats nest , as well as the pressure sensor and some other little things, but i was curious as to where a good spot to tuck these out of the way would be. I'd like to have the bay as easily accessible and simple as possible whilst still maintaining proper functioning of the engine. Other various things to do when reinstalling engine - rewire fuel pump, new battery terminals, boost gauge, all new fluids in everything.... I don't know if I have a concise list of current/ planned mods but I'll get that together for ya. |
I had originally posted this in your Idle thread, so I pasted it here in case it's useful to you:
Just a side note, I noticed you still have the a/c liquid line and evaporator still installed. If you wanted to tidy things up a bit, you can remove the evaporator case from under the dash, remove the evap core, put the case back in and use rubber plugs to cover the holes on the firewall. It's very easy to do and takes about an hour to do all that. Just remove the glove box, lower dash trim panel, evap case screws and the case comes right out. And if you haven't already done it, you can remove the condenser and dryer too. A little weight saving here and there adds up. |
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ircledblue.jpg
Liquid line and low pressure return, right? So if I drop the glove box, remove the trim panel, theres a case with the evap core inside of it? If I'm already removing the core, why would I reinstall the case? Is there any use for the case after the core has been removed. I guess I'll see when we dig into it. And when that core is removed it'll take those two line ends with it? Sounds easy enough and there's no reason to have those open line ends on the firewall. Thanks for the tip. Thats the kinda stuff I'm looking for. |
Yes, the lines will come out with the core. You will have a better understanding about the system once you get the case out. There are 3 main sections to the hvac unit.....the blower case which houses the blower motor and recirc door and to the left of that is the evaporator case, and to the left of that is the heater/ distribution box which houses the heater core and mode doors and actuators. You will see when you get it apart that without the case in place, the air from the blower would not reach the ducts for distribution. The evap case comes out separately without having to remove the others. It's easier than it sounds. Once you have the case out, just remove the clips and screws holding the 2 halves together, remove the core and re-assemble. Piece of cake. Then you can make a trip to the hardware store and grab a couple rubber grommet plugs to cover the holes in the firewall.
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thanks for clearing that up scrip. I'm learning a lot about my car as we progress through this. I appreciate the help.
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Yay!!
More new parts arrived. Here are the OEM metering oil pump injector lines, both lower and upper injector grommets, coolant o rings, UIM to LIM gasket, LIM to Engine gasket, and OEM thermostat.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3676.jpg I was planning on getting some work done tomorrow afternoon after work, but we'll see if it's pouring or not. I was hoping to at least get primered by Monday.:dunno: |
Keep at it :D
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Do you intend to use your blower if you remove the evap core? There is a small electronic doohickey on the evap core casing that needs to stay plugged in! Otherwise unplugging it result in a relay click and a blower not working.I pulled out my evap core and found this out. I then opened the case, pulled the actual core out and reinstalled just the empty case, plugging the small device back in. Everything then worked.
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Great work so far! Did you crimp your injectors or solder them? I can't tell from the picture but it looks like you crimped and then heatshrunk? If that's the case, you will want to go back and solder. That heatshrink doesn't have an adhesive lining so it's going to allow water inside and then trap it, which will attack the crimps.
That stripper looks very impressive. Instead of black and white, next time go for sepia. ;) |
Looks great!
A tip with the paint stripper....run over the areas with a rough sand paper (40grit) before application. This will cut through the layers and allow the stripper to penetrate faster and easier making the tough to remove areas (the ones where you needed a second coat) come off in one coat. |
where did you get the injector plugs?
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Originally Posted by beefhole
(Post 7180403)
Do you intend to use your blower if you remove the evap core? There is a small electronic doohickey on the evap core casing that needs to stay plugged in! Otherwise unplugging it result in a relay click and a blower not working.I pulled out my evap core and found this out. I then opened the case, pulled the actual core out and reinstalled just the empty case, plugging the small device back in. Everything then worked.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 7180623)
Great work so far! Did you crimp your injectors or solder them? I can't tell from the picture but it looks like you crimped and then heatshrunk? If that's the case, you will want to go back and solder. That heatshrink doesn't have an adhesive lining so it's going to allow water inside and then trap it, which will attack the crimps.
That stripper looks very impressive. Instead of black and white, next time go for sepia. ;) Soldered connections with dielectric grease and small individual heatshrink: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/101_2468.jpg Additional heatshrink tubing: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/101_2467.jpg Connected and clip onto new injector: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/101_2469.jpg All four Venom 720cc injectors rewired, soldered, greased and heatshrunk tubing: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/101_2470.jpg I also used new rubber fuel line in the engine bay, I;m trying to do this the right way. As for the stripper (paint), Tal Strip will remain a useful tool to me even after this particular project, I just love it. We'll see about that sepia.....
Originally Posted by classicauto
(Post 7181014)
Looks great!
A tip with the paint stripper....run over the areas with a rough sand paper (40grit) before application. This will cut through the layers and allow the stripper to penetrate faster and easier making the tough to remove areas (the ones where you needed a second coat) come off in one coat.
Originally Posted by RotaMan99
(Post 7181455)
where did you get the injector plugs?
Scroll down to Grommets, there are two different ones needed for each injector - upper and lower, you might want to get the o-rings too, I already had new ones. Thansk for all the great input guys. I'll post back later today with my progress.:icon_tup: |
The evap core and it's 3 lines were removed, this took about 20 mins::icon_tup:
Core case still in car, had to remove glove box and lower dash trim to get access. There are three bolts, two duct clamps and two wires that need to be disconnected. Then just pull out. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3695.jpg Case and core separate http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3700.jpg Clamps have to be secured properly to reinstall: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3701.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3702.jpg So after that was done I removed the brake booster and clutch master cylinder as well as the wiper motor, got all the old paint off with a lil more Tal Strip and then wire wheeled her clean, scrubbed with carb cleaner., rinse and dry with towels: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3712.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3711.jpg Plastic taped and ready for paint: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3714.jpg First of many light coats of Duplicolor Ceramic Primer: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3715.jpg Pretty much done primer: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3718.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3729.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3728.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3727.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3726.jpg:wink: next is paint, then check and repair wiring harness. |
gah your at where i am at in my project..the wireharness...i get turned off everytime i look at my extra wire harness on the floor ready to get redone.
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Where exactly in NJ are ya? Catch me on AIM at driftbrigadenj.
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Nicely done so far Greenbudd.
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come to miami and do my car. lol i need to pull the whole motor out as well. Previous owner completely rigged the motor up and although its run really strong, it looks like crap and very fragile. i gotta do the same thing :(
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Wings,
Yeah the harness will be tons of fun i am sure, I'm honestly not looking forward to it but I consider it to be just as important as any coolant, gas or oil line so it will be checked out and repaired if necessary. Drifted, I'm in Northwest jersey on the border of Sussex and Warren counties, by the Delaware water gap. Scrip, Thanks man. Snack, I'd be happy to come to Miami but I gotta work for the next 30yrs as far as I know, so we'll see if I get a vacation....haha. I'm gonna install the block off of the manifolds tonight after work, maybe finish painting the engine itself. |
Okay, so i went over the primer w/ ceramic engine paint in a low gloss black duplicolor. here's the process:
Nice Paint Booth- http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3773.jpg Finished Primer- http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3768.jpg Getting Stated- http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3774.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3775.jpg Getting There- http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3777.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3781.jpg Just About Finished- http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3789.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3791.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3787.jpg Detail- http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3779.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3786.jpg Didn't turn out to bad as far as I'm concerned. It looks better than: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...100_3618-1.jpg I just bought a FMIC and piping, gonna be going custom setup rather than $1000 GReddy. We'll see how that comes out as well, might get to learn to weld aluminum. |
you need more coats of paint . . .
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Originally Posted by staticguitar313
(Post 7206188)
you need more coats of paint . . .
but looks nice |
also, did you do anything to treat the rust on the driver's side frame rail?
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Yeah I actually used a whole other can today to go over to finish up. I tried to everything in multiple light coats and it sees to work well overall.
The rust was removed with a wire wheel and then the metal was cleaned with carb cleaner and treated with Metal Ready to inhibit future rust. Just spray it on and leave it for 15mins, then rinse with the water and dry, then you paint it and no worries. There is some pitting where the rust was but i don't think it'll be a problem again. I used the same process for the rotor housings on my motor but I used POR15 for that project. Actually I think I'll go finish painting the front cover right now. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3560.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d/100_3565.jpg |
so your putting engine paint on the engine and POR-15 on the actual engine? am i reading that right?
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I'm used Por-15 Engine Enamel for the rotor housings and I used Duplicolor Ceramic Engine Paint for the engine bay.
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cool
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Thanks.
I really want to get a paint gun for the body, but i really don't know much about which kind of gun to get. I just need it to spray paint decently mostly for me to learn with on my project cars, not show quality type stuff ya know...just better than it is now. I'm just looking forward to trying a whole bunch of new things coming up in this one. |
nice thread you got going on there man, im very impressed with your project.
i'd like to own a TII someday and i will subscribe to this thread so i can follow what you've done.. as stated earlier... "These type of threads make me drool" |
Stuff to buy tonight:
-Vacuum Lines and caps -Fuel Hose w/ clamps -Alternator Belts (2) -Radiator Hoses -Self-Fusing High Heat Engine Harness Wrap -Battery Terminals Already done: Intake and TID Blitz SS BOV Racing Beat Downpipe 3” Straight Exhaust to Dual Tips NGK Wires Rtek7 Stage 2.0 ECU Upgrade (4) Venom 720cc Injectors w/ new connectors 255lph pump (new lines in engine bay) KYB AGX’s Various small repairs(wiring, de-gunking, regular maintenance) Needs to be installed: -Throttle Body -UIM -LIM -GASKET INTAKE CENTER -LIM to Engine gasket -Fuel Injectors grommets -Coolant O-rings -Oil metering pump lines -Thermostat -Front Main Seal -Rear Main Seal -Thermal Pellet Upgrade -Vacuum Spider -Thermowax Hose -Emissions Block Off Kit -Double Belted Alternator Pulley -Mallory Hyfire 6A CD Ignition kit -GP Sports Body Kit - Custom FMIC Need to buy: BNR Stage 1 or 2 Turbo Upgrade Aeromotive FPR GReddy Profec B Spec II NGK A/Fx Monitor Kaaz LSD Rebuilt Transmission Exedy Clutch and Flywheel Tanabe GF210’s Rear Camber Adjuster Link Tein Pillow Ball Mounts Koyo Radiator My main focus now is to get the turbo out for rebuild and upgrade, I have noticed that i can feel a very slight amount of play in the shaft on the turbo if i force it by hand so ...might as well go Stage 2. I want to get the harness checked over and repaired, get a new clutch, get a used tranny for the motor and get this thing back together soon... |
damn you got a lot of stuff you're gonna do to it..... keep it up
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It's all eventual, can't do it all at once but little by little it'll happen. I have no idea where this is all going but it's fun to watch it progress.
Though, I think I'm gonna stick to the BNR Stage 1 for sure though, this is my first turbo project and I'd rather start small and work up to something bigger as I learn more. I was really tempted to go Stage 2 for the little bit more $$$, I figured I could just keep it low but I would rather go the safer route of the Stage 1 for now. It'll be bad ass as hell anyways. |
I didn't get to do it the other night though, today I actually bought some more parts:
2 Rolls of Self-Fusing High Heat Engine Harness Wrap- 1" x 12yards in length Car Cover for the TII A Set of New 4 ply silicone Radiator Hoses A Set of New OEM Ball Joints I'll post updates, pics of the progress as they happen. |
Originally Posted by NJGreenBudd
(Post 7206616)
Thanks.
I really want to get a paint gun for the body, but i really don't know much about which kind of gun to get. I just need it to spray paint decently mostly for me to learn with on my project cars, not show quality type stuff ya know...just better than it is now. I'm just looking forward to trying a whole bunch of new things coming up in this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._promot_widget And if the auction ends before you get a chance to get one, check back with the seller. He relists it every couple weeks or so. I have been watching this listing for a couple months. |
I'm looking into devilbiss now, thanks for the tip.
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If you're doing all of that stuff might as well do control arm bushings and maybe even engine/tranny mounts.
Looks good. |
Originally Posted by TehMonkay
(Post 7217909)
If you're doing all of that stuff might as well do control arm bushings and maybe even engine/tranny mounts.
Looks good. Keep'm coming guys, what else am i forgetting? |
dude im doing the same exact thing lol im waiting untill im done to post it up :) 87 hardtop base model to 91 t2 conversion <3
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Have you polished your FTP lenses and turn sig/ tail lenses? It's simple and looks like new when you're done. I used 1500 grit wet-or-dry paper with lots of water as the first step, then used a drill-mounted polishing ball and plastic polish to buff it all out. The tails shouldn't require sandpaper, just plastic polish and either a polishing ball or soft wax applicator. I had my instrument cluster out the other day to swap out a bad temp gauge and I polished the clear lens with the buffing ball and drill and it looks like brand new.
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