87 NA Daily Driver possible fuel problem?
#1
Rotor>Piston
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87 NA Daily Driver possible fuel problem?
Ok so I am a newb when it comes to mechanics. Got this fc to learn on and drive back and forth to work 3 days a week. It has some problems that I really need some assistance on. It is an 87 NA, ghetto duct taped intake, 2 1/4 dual straight pipe exhaust, otherwise stock. First, it seems as if the ignition is going. Sometimes it clicks, sometimes turns over slow, sometimes starts right up. Other day it was being extra stubborn, and after a while, I noticed the negative cable to the battery (relocated to the rear) was smoking.
Second, when I start it up at first, sometimes it idles fine, sometimes it fluctuates between 1k and 1500 rpms, and when I give it gas, it only revs to 2000 and dies back down to 800, almost seems like its gettin no gas and just dies down. after a while of givin it gas and playin with it it seems to just break free and run fine. sometimes it doesnt do it at all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, Ive had this car for a little over a month and it is time to get my *** motivated.
Second, when I start it up at first, sometimes it idles fine, sometimes it fluctuates between 1k and 1500 rpms, and when I give it gas, it only revs to 2000 and dies back down to 800, almost seems like its gettin no gas and just dies down. after a while of givin it gas and playin with it it seems to just break free and run fine. sometimes it doesnt do it at all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, Ive had this car for a little over a month and it is time to get my *** motivated.
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Where to start! OK first verify that the engine and battery grounds are making good contact to bare metal. There is a thread in the Archives I think that helps with the location of the several grounds you will need to work on.
Then verify that there are no vacuum leaks. This can be a real pain and no one likes to do it, but its important. Vac leaks can really play hell with the engine's idling. Besides the vac lines there are the seals at the throttle body intake and at the injectors.
Verify and adjust the TPS and set the idle speed to 750-1000. Again look in the Archives for methods and how to's on setting the TPS. There are at least 3. I use a voltmeter and adjust the TPS output to 1.0 volt at idle with the engine up to operating temp.
Take care of all these and then see if the engine idles better.
The RX7's engine is designed to idle high until the engine warms up. Then it should idle steady at 750-1000 RPM.
You may have to enlist the help of knowledgable folks on this forum as you proceed. Make sure you search for help first. Probably most of the help you need has already been discussed in other threads before.
Then verify that there are no vacuum leaks. This can be a real pain and no one likes to do it, but its important. Vac leaks can really play hell with the engine's idling. Besides the vac lines there are the seals at the throttle body intake and at the injectors.
Verify and adjust the TPS and set the idle speed to 750-1000. Again look in the Archives for methods and how to's on setting the TPS. There are at least 3. I use a voltmeter and adjust the TPS output to 1.0 volt at idle with the engine up to operating temp.
Take care of all these and then see if the engine idles better.
The RX7's engine is designed to idle high until the engine warms up. Then it should idle steady at 750-1000 RPM.
You may have to enlist the help of knowledgable folks on this forum as you proceed. Make sure you search for help first. Probably most of the help you need has already been discussed in other threads before.
#4
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I know I'm asking for alot lol. I spray bombed it today. Haynes manual will be here tomorrow, along with fuel filter. First thing tomorrow I will attempt to tackle the grounds, and vaccum lines.when it gets warms, it idles around 800-900 constant. As for check engine light, its not on, but idk if it is even hooked up, as everything in the cockpit is half *** thrown together. I will post more tomorrow after I quit for the day. Thank you for all the info you dont know how much you helped me. tryin to save a big *** shop bill by doin this myself. Just hope I dont create more problems.
#5
Sharp Claws
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s4 didn't have a check engine light, make the test lamp to pull codes and see if there is anything stored in the computer. the idle issue sounds like minor vacuum leaks in conjunction with lack of maintenance and improperly set idle, TPS and possibly ignition timing.
the RPM cut issue usually is a symptom that the car needs the cobwebs knocked out of it and simply needs to be driven more.
the RPM cut issue usually is a symptom that the car needs the cobwebs knocked out of it and simply needs to be driven more.
#6
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Got called into work today, wasn't gonna go but the extra money will be nice. If it is just cobwebs they will be cleared soon. The previous owner said it didn't run when he got it due to sitting. I know it runs really rich, to the point of flooding once.
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So before work today I had a couple minutes of free time, found the wire coming from the starter was bare at the end and didnt feel too tight. it did the usual clicking it always does. after wiggling around that wire it started right up. so my next free time I'm going to get underneath it and see if I can make the connection any better. got the fuel filter in that is next on my to-do-list.
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