87 FC TII Fuel issues
04-11-13, 09:41 PM
#26
So my fcd worked fine... Now doesn't work at all. There was a fuel cut switch installed before for when it's flooding and I fear it might have screwed up my fcd. But it still seems like it's passing through power wise. Like the boost gauge came back and the the relay still runs through the fcd, but it isn't doing what it's supposed to.
If there is 12v there, that is f*cked up.
The BAC does nothing for boost problem. It's a step motor for accessroies to help idle.
Highly doubt it's an ECU problem unless someone did something stupid . You could open the top and look for burnt transistors.
04-11-13, 10:50 PM
#27
I was going to get an rtek 1.7 and a walbro or fd fuel pump.
My car has a full exhaust and stock intake, so i want to use bigger secondaries, ill complete the setup before the end of breakin. I'd still rather have the bigger secondaries as a security measure since my exhaust is 3" and I see no reason to get another set of injectors cleaned that really aren't what my setup needs.
I want to run 10 psi , and later 12 after I get a fmic.
To start though as little as possible since I only have a fcd and bigger secondaries, like 7-9psi Max.
04-11-13, 11:12 PM
#29
I was going to put gsl-se secondaries and use stock primaries, but my car won't be seeing past 4000 rpm until after break in.
I was going to get an rtek 1.7 and a walbro or fd fuel pump.
My car has a full exhaust and stock intake, so i want to use bigger secondaries, ill complete the setup before the end of breakin. I'd still rather have the bigger secondaries as a security measure since my exhaust is 3" and I see no reason to get another set of injectors cleaned that really aren't what my setup needs.
I want to run 10 psi , and later 12 after I get a fmic.
To start though as little as possible since I only have a fcd and bigger secondaries, like 7-9psi Max.
I was going to get an rtek 1.7 and a walbro or fd fuel pump.
My car has a full exhaust and stock intake, so i want to use bigger secondaries, ill complete the setup before the end of breakin. I'd still rather have the bigger secondaries as a security measure since my exhaust is 3" and I see no reason to get another set of injectors cleaned that really aren't what my setup needs.
I want to run 10 psi , and later 12 after I get a fmic.
To start though as little as possible since I only have a fcd and bigger secondaries, like 7-9psi Max.
I wouldn't waste money on a limited rtek. An old Haltech E6k, proven and solid, will do wonders.
Get a Walbro. It's cheap and works.
I've got 1000cc on all fours and went from SAFC to Haltech E6k to Haltech Plat.
HUGE difference. 390hp at wheels is worth the headache.
An E6K is simple map wise compared to a newer Haltech.
04-11-13, 11:29 PM
#30
You're going to hit 1 bar easily with turbo back exhaust. Only way to keep it low is with your foot.
I wouldn't waste money on a limited rtek. An old Haltech E6k, proven and solid, will do wonders.
Get a Walbro. It's cheap and works.
I've got 1000cc on all fours and went from SAFC to Haltech E6k to Haltech Plat.
HUGE difference. 390hp at wheels is worth the headache.
An E6K is simple map wise compared to a newer Haltech.
I don't have a huge budget, I just want a good safe and reliable setup, the car isn't even all put together yet. I do plan to port the waste gate as much as possible.
Im just trying to figure out my best options, from my research more than 10 psi is ineffient to run on the tmic because at that point it doesn't keep intake temps down where you want them to be.
Im just really paranoid so Ive been trying to.figure out what I'm going to do since there's numerous variables to consider.
Plan to run it as low boost as possible initially, 7-8 psi if possible..but I don't see it happening with a full exhaust...maybe with extreme wg porting
04-11-13, 11:47 PM
#31
I'm only running a stock s5 Turbo, the most power I'd get out of it is 240-250whp @12psi.
I don't have a huge budget, I just want a good safe and reliable setup, the car isn't even all put together yet. I do plan to port the waste gate as much as possible.
Im just trying to figure out my best options, from my research more than 10 psi is ineffient to run on the tmic because at that point it doesn't keep intake temps down where you want them to be.
Im just really paranoid so Ive been trying to.figure out what I'm going to do since there's numerous variables to consider.
I don't have a huge budget, I just want a good safe and reliable setup, the car isn't even all put together yet. I do plan to port the waste gate as much as possible.
Im just trying to figure out my best options, from my research more than 10 psi is ineffient to run on the tmic because at that point it doesn't keep intake temps down where you want them to be.
Im just really paranoid so Ive been trying to.figure out what I'm going to do since there's numerous variables to consider.
I'm sure you're close to that hp mark. ..maybe about 10-15 off the 240 mark.
When I had open filter, SAFC, 720cc sec., Racing Beat full exhaust/FCD, Walbro, I hit 227.
A lot of guys here have been there... done that. Ask if you're not sure before you spend money on something.
Make sure you take care of fuel first.
Your base boost is your base boost. No way around that. Even with porting the wastegate, you will get boost creep. More so on cold days. I've hit 17 psi.
Good luck .
Important note on the Walbro. Make sure it's not a fake. A genuine has metal gears and you can see it through the fuel inlet side.
04-12-13, 12:10 AM
#32
You don't need to spend a lot of money for reliability.
I'm sure you're close to that hp mark. ..maybe about 10-15 off the 240 mark.
When I had open filter, SAFC, 720cc sec., Racing Beat full exhaust/FCD, Walbro, I hit 227.
A lot of guys here have been there... done that. Ask if you're not sure before you spend money on something.
Make sure you take care of fuel first.
Your base boost is your base boost. No way around that. Even with porting the wastegate, you will get boost creep. More so on cold days. I've hit 17 psi.
Good luck .
Important note on the Walbro. Make sure it's not a fake. A genuine has metal gears and you can see it through the fuel inlet side.
The highest its suppose to go is 12 psi
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