I have a 86 rx7 gxl na and i pulled my original engine out to put 1 in with 88k on it in the car. well doing so i also got a tuned stock greddy computer put on, blocked the egr, zero temp, acv, and bac, i also got rid of the omp and am running premix. The car has a port and polished tb and pretty much the rest of the emissions stuff is gone. no solenoids or cats. full exhaust. My problem is that in doing most of that when i put the engine in now i have to pump. i replaced the fuel pump and still no chime.....! Any clues? ive tested everything on the damn car the only thing i can think of is that the circuit opening relay is opening. The egi main relay and fuse click and when i use the check connector(short circuit tester connector) the pump turns on but wont pressureize still. Thanks

 

The FSM states that the airflow meter activates the fuel pump. I have seen many post on here where the AFM isn't working properly or isn't connected correctly and the fuel pump doesn't activate while trying to start the car. Give this a check...

 

You installed the fuel lines on wrong. Either at the hardline from the filter to the engine or somewhere else down the line. Like under the intake manifold.

***** i put the engine in now i have to pump******* You have to pump what/??????????

 

i know the afm has connections with the fuel pump but it worked fine on my other engine the car only sat for maybe 6 months but i guess thats possible. Thanks

 

all i did was get rid of the metal hoses and vacuum lines. And just ran a hose from the primary injectors to the fuel filter and a hose from the secondary to the return line going down near the tranny i guess. Im thinking the fuel filter could be clogged maybe. So like most other cars the pump should be on when the keys on correct? Thanks

 

The fuel pump on a 1986 will not run by turning the key to ON.

The fuel pump will turn on if the key is put to ON and the yellow two socket fuel check connector is jumpered. YOU said you did this and the pump runs like that. Engine does not have to be running for this to happen.

The fuel pump runs when the engine is running and pulling the vane inside the afm aft at least a 1/8". This causes a small switch inside the afm to *make* and put a ground on the circuit opening relay. When you jumpered the yellow two socket connector, you simulated this act. When you jumper the yellow connector, you are jumpering one wire that goes to ground, with another wire (brown) that goes to the circuit opening relays coil. Goes to the negative side of that coil. Causes the pump to run.

That's why when I wrote my post above I did not say it was Circuit Opening Relay or afm related. BECAUSE you say the pump works with the yellow connector jumpered.

Here's what you do. Swap the two lines at the engine. I mean swap the pressure and return lines. This is a common fix for people who install JDM engines in USA cars.

Or remove the RETURN lines rubber hose and leave it off. Then key ON, and jumper the yellow connector. Pump will run. FUEL should flow out of the HARDLINE on the engine if it is truly the Return line. Fuel should flow thru the rails to the pressure regulator and then to the return line. Catch the fuel coming out of the hardline and be fire aware.

Oh. If the wiring has not been messed up tooooo bad, the fuel pump will run if the key is HELD to START. Like I say, HELD to Start. Pump turns off when the key is returned to ON and engine not running.

A LOT of people say the SERIES FIVE pump will run for a moment when the key is initially put to ON. I can't verify that one way or the other. I've no way to prove that right or wrong.

IF it's a stock USA car, the LAST thing in the fuel system before the Return line, is the FPR. FPR has to be the LAST item.

 

Thank you so much i thought that but im not a rx7 mechanic but im getting to know my way around them so far. something told me it didnt have to be on with the key on since the connector turned the pump on. alright yeah i swapped the regulator out and i did verify that the hoses are correct so maybe im not giving the engine a chance. i clear flooded it a couple times cause it sounded like **** and now it sounds like it wanted to start. Thanks for the help really. These cars have any real problems with fire? Coils or anything like that i should look out for? THanks

 

The fire safety warning is common sense since Hailers (real name anyone?) said to remove a fuel line.

As far as prone to fires, RX-7's weak point is the pulsation damper, which you can see at the front of the primary fuel rail. It has a white turned yellowish plastic round piece attached to it. If this part is leaking or you smell gas fumes coming from it, replace it IMMEDIATELY or put a banjo bolt in its place. Search "pulsation damper fire" and "pulsation damper banjo bolt" to read more. I think info is also in the 2nd. gen. stickies or archive.

 

already removed it. Thanks

 

Sounds kinda, sorta flooded maybe. Try a can of starter fluid. Spray into the air filter for two seconds and try to start with the fuel pump disabled (don't pull EGI fuses or it can't start).

And as you know you shouldn't try to keep a RX running by spraying starter fluid continuously into the air filter. Knock, knock be bad.

Another thing that MIGHT make it difficult to start cold, is the water thermo sensor circuit being open to the ECU. Check pin 2I (green/white) for 2-3 vdc if the water is cold or if you get it running, for a half volt at pin 2I.

If you see 4.5 to 5vdc on pin 2I, I guarantee the circuit is open b/t the sensor and the ECU.

Or another thing is if pin 3B does not see the Start signal when you HOLD the key to Start, the ECU uses the afm for fuel amount instead of it's built in Start Map, which is richer.

 

alright ill see what i can find out. Heres a up to date status of the car. i go to start it and it just cranks everything rotates fine but it sounds like its flooded and doesnt attempt to even start at all? Any ideas? Thanks

 

Look at the tach needle when cranking the engine over. It should make small tiny bumps as you try to start. If it does, that means the ECU and coils etc are getting power.

And or make sure the ENGINE fuse in the interior is good (powers the fuel pump and Main Relay).

IF your fuel pump still runs, don't bother looking at the ENGINE fuse because a running pump means the engine fuse is good.

EDIT: Whoa! I'm HAILERS again and not HAILERS2. Fixed my laptop which has HAILERS as the user when using this forum. Ignore this. I'm just pleased my laptop is up and running again.

The two EGI fuses power the ECU, fuel injectors and coils thru the Main Relay. Those are the main players in starting, along with the ENGINE fuse which pulls the Main Relay in to pass power from the two EGI fuses to the injectors, coils, ECU.

 

im not to sure if the pump runs with the key on yet. I know the egi fuse works cause it clicks and its fairly new the egi main relay has almost 300k on it but clicks with the key on. It just cranks and cranks and never tries to start at all. I did do the old way and pulled 1 wire off and put it on metal and i am getting spark from one wire atleast. the cas would make no spark correct if that was bad? Thanks