Hey guys.... I am a fresh new member that has currently lost all hope for a recently picked up 86 non turbo.... For a period the coolant was overheating in the overflow and then out the overflow but the inside gage would not over heat.... So a new thermo went in.... and a new fan clutch went in.... same deal... just got it back from the dealer and supposedly there is a exhaust gasses leaking into cooling system which after some hose rerouting by dealer to return to stock from previous owners rigs now temps up on gage and overheats.... my question is short of rebuilding are there any good ways to solve.,... . and does any one have or can suggest a place to pickup a crate motor at a resonable price to throw into this bad boy......

----- Otherwise this biatch might be going to the chopping block -------

 

nope, sounds like you lost a coolant seal inside the engine. it is gonna require a rebuild. u can find engines in junkyards on or the forsale section on here for anywhere between 400-800 for a jspec.

 

Before you get radical, try the "block weld" coolant feal fix.

The seal between combustion gasses & water jacket is a rubber O-ring in a groove all the way around the engine.
If it leaks you get coolant in the combustion chamber and overheating symptoms, just like a blown head gasket in a piston engine.
I have had this happen, and was able to patch it with radiator stop leak.
I caught it early, before there was too much erosion of the O-ring.
The short version:
Hard to start, catches & sputters, blows white smoke, then clears up & runs OK.
To fix:
Good coolant flush, add half the stop leak, idle warm up to full temp, shut off & cool down cold, (repeat)
Do a search under "block weld".
Many have had good luck with that product & there is a good write up on the forum using it.
No guaranty, but it can’t hurt to try..


My 91 NA had Barrs Leak in it for a year when I sold it to get the turbo.

 

Your coolant seals are fried. Try the block weld trick, but a rebuild is the optimal choice. Keep in mind that on S4s, (86-88), 1/4 way up the temp gauge is normal operating temp. Anything above that is not good, and anything above 1/2 way up is detremental and should be shut off immediatly. Overheating and rotaries don't mix well at all.