75 psi compression rear rotor, needle doesn't move front rortor??? WTF
75 psi compression rear rotor, needle doesn't move front rortor??? WTF
Ok I did the compression test with a picton compression gauge....
I took out the bottom plugs on the rear and front at the same time then I screwed in the compression gauge in the bottom rear housing. Unplugged the egi fuse, floored the pedal and cranked it, at first it was at 50 psi then went to 75 psi. I then took out the compressor gauge from the rear bottom and screwed it into the front bottom. The needle did not even move a hair. I put the rear spark plug in and tried again but once again the needle did not even move. I then tried the top of the front some thing the needle did not even move. I guess I have a blown engine. My wife is very upset with me and wants me to sell the car. I really do not want to sell it. How much would it cost me to replace the engine in this vehicle? 1987 turbo II???
I took out the bottom plugs on the rear and front at the same time then I screwed in the compression gauge in the bottom rear housing. Unplugged the egi fuse, floored the pedal and cranked it, at first it was at 50 psi then went to 75 psi. I then took out the compressor gauge from the rear bottom and screwed it into the front bottom. The needle did not even move a hair. I put the rear spark plug in and tried again but once again the needle did not even move. I then tried the top of the front some thing the needle did not even move. I guess I have a blown engine. My wife is very upset with me and wants me to sell the car. I really do not want to sell it. How much would it cost me to replace the engine in this vehicle? 1987 turbo II???
Well, it's possible you have a stuck seal. But yeah, very likely you have a blown engine.
But..before rebuilding..
Put some MMO in the engine, spin it a bit to get to the next combustion surface/apex seal, put in more, repeat, repeat..spin the engine a couple times...wait overnight...and try again the next day.
Worth a shot, ya know?
But..before rebuilding..
Put some MMO in the engine, spin it a bit to get to the next combustion surface/apex seal, put in more, repeat, repeat..spin the engine a couple times...wait overnight...and try again the next day.
Worth a shot, ya know?
Yeah Man I have to be totally honest with you, I really like this car and I haven't even got to drive it yet. I just might have to get rid of it. My wife is very upset that I spent over $1,800 to have as she would say "this piece of $hit towed here, and it won't even run!" I am not sure I can even afford to rebuild or buy a new engine for this car. I would love to but I am not sure that it is with-in my budget. I am willing anything right now to get it running. I will try it tommorow. Thanks for the input. Did I do the compression test wrong maybe that is why I got the results I did????
where the hell did you get it towed from? That's one hell of a bill! But why get rid of it? If it needs a rebuild and you can't afford it yet, keep it, save up for the rebuild. That's what I'm doing. I spent $4500 on my FC, only to find out i'd have to throw a couple more thou into it because it needs a rebuild. It sucks, and I can't afford it, all my bread went into buying the damn thing. But I'll still wait, save... The car is worth it.
You won't regret keeping it, I think, anyway. But you might regret it if you get rid of it.
You won't regret keeping it, I think, anyway. But you might regret it if you get rid of it.
try the MMO in the spark plug hole as suggested and let it soak in, from the sound of it the engine has been sitting a while so the seals may be stuck but they usually stick for a reason so i am thinking a cracked iron... but good luck anyways with it.
Originally Posted by Karack
try the MMO in the spark plug hole as suggested and let it soak in, from the sound of it the engine has been sitting a while so the seals may be stuck but they usually stick for a reason so i am thinking a cracked iron... but good luck anyways with it.
when an engine overheats the thin walls on the coolant seal passages that hold the coolant seals tend to crack and break off causing the coolant seal to fail and force water into the engine and/or air into the cooling system causing overheating. water in the engine rusts parts and sticks seals.
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Originally Posted by Karack
when an engine overheats the thin walls on the coolant seal passages that hold the coolant seals tend to crack and break off causing the coolant seal to fail and force water into the engine and/or air into the cooling system causing overheating. water in the engine rusts parts and sticks seals.
i don't know of any in NY personally but i have heard of a few there just don't remember the names of any shops off the top of my head. there is a list of builders in the general tech section in a sticky there.
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From: San Bernardino County, Camp Pendleton, Kissimmee Fl.
Originally Posted by netfreakz
Ok I did the compression test with a picton compression gauge....
I took out the bottom plugs on the rear and front at the same time then I screwed in the compression gauge in the bottom rear housing. Unplugged the egi fuse, floored the pedal and cranked it, at first it was at 50 psi then went to 75 psi. I then took out the compressor gauge from the rear bottom and screwed it into the front bottom. The needle did not even move a hair. I put the rear spark plug in and tried again but once again the needle did not even move. I then tried the top of the front some thing the needle did not even move. I guess I have a blown engine. My wife is very upset with me and wants me to sell the car. I really do not want to sell it. How much would it cost me to replace the engine in this vehicle? 1987 turbo II???
I took out the bottom plugs on the rear and front at the same time then I screwed in the compression gauge in the bottom rear housing. Unplugged the egi fuse, floored the pedal and cranked it, at first it was at 50 psi then went to 75 psi. I then took out the compressor gauge from the rear bottom and screwed it into the front bottom. The needle did not even move a hair. I put the rear spark plug in and tried again but once again the needle did not even move. I then tried the top of the front some thing the needle did not even move. I guess I have a blown engine. My wife is very upset with me and wants me to sell the car. I really do not want to sell it. How much would it cost me to replace the engine in this vehicle? 1987 turbo II???

Hey I had an engine lose commpression in both rotors from just sitting 6 months, zero psi in both rotors and got it back to 95psi so its possible thats all your problem is, put some engine oil or ATF into the rotor housing and have someone pull start you around let the engine turn and heat up a little it will gain commpression again if nothing was already broken even if its not running, after a few minuets of this, check the compression again and see if you gained any maing sure to keep the rotor housing lubricated
Originally Posted by fc3stech
Hey I had an engine lose commpression in both rotors from just sitting 6 months, zero psi in both rotors and got it back to 95psi so its possible thats all your problem is, put some engine oil or ATF into the rotor housing and have someone pull start you around let the engine turn and heat up a little it will gain commpression again if nothing was already broken even if its not running, after a few minuets of this, check the compression again and see if you gained any maing sure to keep the rotor housing lubricated
I will try it, not like I can hurt anything. Thanks for the advice.
Originally Posted by netfreakz
My wife is very upset that I spent over $1,800 to have as she would say "this piece of $hit towed here, and it won't even run!"
Forget a rebuild if the engine is bad - if you can squeeze out a couple hundred more, you can get a used engine, preferably still in a smashed rotted out junker, and swap it out. The rotary engine is notoriously lightweight and a couple of regular guys can pick it up out of the car with the right chain, 2x4's and breaker bar. Plus you'll have the benefit of a parts car.
and when using ATF, a little goes a LONG way.
good luck ~rich
Ok I want to try to put engine oil in not atf and try to build the compression before i decide to order a rebuilt engine. I have one problem. The car is not registered and I live on staten island which is a city. Stop signs on every corner and stop lights. I won't be able to pull the car to try to build up the compression. The funny thing is when I checked the rear rotor at first the needle was only bouncing to 50psi, then after a few more cranks it went up to 75psi! When I tried the front rotor man I was so dissapointed the needle didn't move for shyt!!! Not even a hair did it move. Is there anyway I can inject the engine oil and try to build the compression just by cranking it over? Or will that NOT work?
Last night I injected some atf so soak the seals I turned the engine by hand trying to inject the atf into each chamber. Tonight I am going to see if I can get it to build some compression by pull starting it after trying to get some of the atf out by starting it with no bottom plugs in. I will let you know how it turns out.
Ok Just out of curosity... I have an engine I can buy for $1,500 from a friend of mine in fl. He has over $4,000.00 in the engine it has 6 thousand miles on it. He is willing to sell it to me because he is putting in a 13-bre tt in from the cosmo. Is there anyway I can drive my car using the rear rotor and housing only by somehow disabling the front housing and rotor?? I just need to drive it back to Florida so I can get the engine installed. Roughly 1200 miles.
Originally Posted by netfreakz
Is there anyway I can drive my car using the rear rotor and housing only by somehow disabling the front housing and rotor?? I just need to drive it back to Florida so I can get the engine installed. Roughly 1200 miles.
Originally Posted by n/a-luvr
Uhaul has great rates on car tow dollies (~$45 a day) and even trucks to pull em if you can't find a friend with a truck who wants to go... Doesn't amtrak have a car hauling train down to florida? ~rich
Ok I just got in. last night I injected ATF into the bottom two spark plug holes. Let it sit over night, and tonight I had a buddy of mine pull start me. I had it running and even drove it in reverse and 1st, 2nd, & 3rd. I could keep it running as long as i did not let the idol drop below 1 rpm. I had to rev it high and let the clutch out slooow and I could drive it. But the car was really really slow to move. My buddy told me I was shooting plames out the exhaust. The car was smokin pretty bad and I parked it and kept it running by idoling it with my foot. I had to stop and let it die after 15 minutes because the driver door was open and passanger window but I could NOT breathe. Smoke was coming from between the passanger seat and hump for the differential shaft! I put my hand between there and man was it hot! After I let the car die I got out went to the passanger quarter panel and leaned on it for a second and I almost burned my hand!!! The passanger side quarter panel was sooo hot I could not believe it. In the morning I am going to go back to the car and check the compression again to see if by any chance I did build up some compression! Can anyone tell me how to remove the valve in a piston compression gauge so I can use it properly with my rotary engine? Everyone thanks for all your help and input on this. If my compression in my front chamber is still zero then I know I need an angine. But if it has some compression now then I will try again with atf to get it running and build up some more compression.
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