hey if any of u guys can help i got a 88t2 and i put 720cc secondaries and now wen i drive it and warm it up and then shut it off it floods and then i have to take the fuse out and crank it to take all of the fuel out then put the fuse back in so that it could start up .. any thing thats u guys think it could be and wat i can do about it???

 

did you replace the injector O RINGS when you changed them? did you forget to put them in? or mabeye you dropped on of the injectors and cracked that thin cover on the end. , you may ahev a leak, so you turn off the car and it leaks fuel while sitting. if you drive it and warm it up, is it flooded immedialty after you turn it off, or does it only flood when its cold? sorry about the questions, but my friend had a similar issue so im trying to get details to see if its the same thing

 

If not mistaken, you need some kind of fuel mgmt for that size and larger injectors.

 

secondaries shouldn't be firing on cranking anyway. whats your compression?

 

after it warms up and i drive it awhile and boosting like 10 psi then i let it sit for like a min then turn it off and then i have to flip a switch to cut the fuel pump off and then crank it and while crankin it i flip the switch back on then the car starts ... thats wat ive had to resort now today i was goin thru the gears first and sec are nice wen i get to third the car is like bogglin like its starving and now i got a idle problem and the engine sounds nasty ..wat can that be
im checkin the compreesion today ill see wat it is wats a good compression anyways?

 

Anything over 85 would be a good/useable compression reading.

I haven't checked mine yet but the guy that sold me my TII said it was getting 60 psi across both rotors. It runs great and boosts fine, but I also have to use the fuel pump cut switch to get it to start on a hot start.

 

install injecter cut off switch in the car so you don't have to pop the hood ;-)

 

ok thanx i did all that but now this mornin the car doesnt wanna stay on only if i gas it it will i did the compression test and the rear first read 90 then i checked it again it went down to 60... dont know why .. theres little metal shavings in the oil stick and i get boost on neutral wen i rev it 7grand i get 10pounds... wat the hell is wrong wit my car????

 

you have low compression and possibly leaky injectors.

 

There is METAL in the oil?! This is bad. It means that your bearings are being ground away by lack of lubrication.

STOP driving the car and pull apart your oil filter. Is it full of metal? If so, then the engine is hosed. If not, then change the oil and filter, drive a little and then make sure there's no more metal.

The flooding could be a number of causes. One of the injectors could be defective, there could be a vacuum leak, the engine could be dying, etc.

Does the oil REEK like gas? If so then the car is running very rich and you could be thinning your oil to the point where you have damaged the bearings.

If the engine is eating itself internally, there's nothing you can do but to stop driving it and hope there's enough left to rebuild.

 

Bump? WTF? Did you do what Aaron Cake said? That is very important to check right now. If you have metal shavings on the dip stick something is wrong... Some quick questions, is it a rebuilt motor, does it have emissions or OMP, and did you do your compression test when it was warm?

The secondaries aren't your problem, like stated earlier they only come on when under load at 3800rpm, so if your letting your car idle before shutting it off then that is the Primaries only and if they are still stock it should be fine. It sounds like a low compression issue, and along with the metal shavings it is sounding like a toasted motor.

Dane

 

am having the same problem but my engine is fine the only the it's flooding and i guess its becuase of my fuel pump and how the switch is setup can any body tell me how not to make it run rich???please help i don't want to be poping the hood and taking aout the relay all the time to get it to start

 

How is you switch set up? If it's the cause of the problem, then simply remove it.

If the car is running rich all the time, do a search for "running rich". It's been covered before. Generally you start with full tuneup and then check the operation of the TPS, water temp sensor and air temp sensor.

 

i have the problem, right after start up it always smokes like crazy.. but i have a SAFC II, im not sure of the tuning though, since i did not install it.

 

If you have a harsh fuel leak it could have managed to work its way into the oil making the oil lose lubcrication benefits causing the metal shavings you have now...

 

Did we get confirmation that he had some sort of fuel control? Or was he just firehosing with those 720s?

 

every time i turn off the car and then what to try to turn it again it won't start cuz it floods i have to let it rest for like 45 min or so or do the flooding trick

 

Are your primary injectors leaking? Compression?

 

Secondaries don't matter on start. He needs to check compression and see if his primaries are leaking like Aaron said.

 

Common now, in ANY fuel injected car if it has a leaky injector it can cause a problem regardless of if the injector is even plugged into the wire harness or not.

 

Ok, common sense here, warm up the car and run it up the road high enough to kick in the secondaries. Park it and release the fuel pressure on the primary rail and see if you have your start problem afterwards. Then drive it up the road again and release the fuel pressure on the secondary rail and see if it still has the start problem. If either one helps the start issue you've probably isolated where the problem is.

Also I've seen charcoal canisters satureted with fuel causing the car to flood on startup when it purges. This is usually caused by people trying to squeeze every last drop of fuel they can in the tank when they fill up instead of letting the cut off work at the pump.

Just throwing out some other ideas, I see a lot of posts with the same stuff in there.