2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

7 keeps floding

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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:19 PM
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From: AZ laveen
7 keeps floding

my car starts right up when its cold but when my car warms up it will die an when u try to start it back up it folded 88na fc. i hace a rb header an thats it
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:22 PM
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Compression check?
Do you smell fuel?
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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From: AZ laveen
Originally Posted by LunchboxCritter
Compression check?
Do you smell fuel?
yes i smell fuel
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:48 PM
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S4 model?

You need to send your injectors out to be serviced, and possibly replace your pulsation damper. Immediately!

The FC's are notorious for burning up. We lost our first one in the mid 90's due to fire. It was an 87 TII, burnt up on Christmas Day, sad sad day.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:52 PM
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From: AZ laveen
yes it a s4
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 03:12 PM
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Do a search for 'hot start' or 'hot start problem', it's a pretty common problem. How many miles on the engine? They tend to do that as compression starts to go down. I have to use a fuel pump cutoff switch on my 202k-mile S4 n/a.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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Yeah man. My S5 t2 had the same problem. People have treated the symptom by installing a de flood switch that disables the egi fuse, you crank the engine with switch held/On and it can be used as an anti theft device too sometimes. But the flooding is caused from a combination of low compression and bad injectors. The un burnt fuel from failed starts builds up more and more. A temporary fix is to remove the egi fuse and crank it a few seconds, same principal as the switch.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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From: mass
Could also be the thermo sensor is bad. The sensor is telling the car its cold when its actually warm and the ecu is dumping extra fuel. Search around. Tons of info on the forum.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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From: mass
Also, a fuel cut switch takes about 15 minutes to put in if you need a "band-aid" for now. Be sure to mount the switch so that it operates with your left hand, leaving your right hand to turn the key.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 02:28 AM
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From: Springtuckey
i'm also going to say that you:
1. check the water temp sensor (under the alt)
2. compression test
3. fuel cut switch (this really is worth the time)
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 02:39 AM
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From: AZ laveen
when i take the egi fuse and crank it still wont start i have to leave it an come back in like 10-15 mins an try to start it an it starts right up.check the how do i cheek the water temp sensor
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:02 PM
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Are you cranking it with the EGI fuse out and expecting it to start? If so you're supposed to crank it without it in (to clear out excess fuel), pop it back in and start normally. Not sure how well I explained it last post (was on mobile).
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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From: Springtuckey
Originally Posted by philly101
when i take the egi fuse and crank it still wont start i have to leave it an come back in like 10-15 mins an try to start it an it starts right up.check the how do i cheek the water temp sensor
i'm pretty sure there is a test in the FSM about what readings you from the temp sensor when it's cold vs warm. they are only like $10 if you shop around.

also, and this is just my experience, when i had flooding issues with my s4 just pulling the egi fuse never seemed to help. it would occasionally help me get the car started but not always. i wired in a cut switch, which only takes a 1/2 hour max (and i had a broken collarbone at the time) and was able to feather the fuel feed enough that i could always get it started.
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