Alright, so my auxilary ports have never worked properly since I owned the car (wired open the whole time). The sleeves move just fine by hand. They are NOT frozen. The problem is that I can never get the actuators to physically rotate the sleeves. The previous owner had tried to use an electronic pump to open them, with no luck--he thought the pump didn't have enough output.

So I've made multiple attempts to troubleshoot this issue. I tried to see if it would run off backpressure when I used to have a cat and a very restrictive resonator installed. No luck--but in hindsight, the actuators could have used new gaskets.

So I've made my own attempt to wire up something electronic. I'm using a Corvette smog pump (I've made a thread or two about this endeavor). I finally got the pump running with the RPM switch, but the actuators still wouldn't open. I tried bleeding pressure off the main smog pump hose using a two-way hose barb, but that didn't work. I also tried using a fitting on the end of the smog pump hose, with a nipple for the 3/16" hose that goes to the manifold, and that didn't work either.

Now here's the kicker--the ports won't open when I blow into the manifold with my mouth. So I replaced the gaskets on the actuators with new ones from Mazdatrix. No luck. I thought the actuators could be shot, so I bought another set, applied new gaskets, and I still can't blow the ports open--it's like when you try to blow up a balloon and the air doesn't seem to go anywhere. Yet I can take the two actuators off and blow air into the manifold and then feel it coming out.

At this point I have no idea what's wrong... could there be something internally restricting airflow? I feel like I've wasted sooooo much time on this project, first troubleshooting my wiring and now with the ports themselves. I want these damn things to work. Is there any way I could use some kind of fully electronic system that doesn't rely on air pressure? Hasn't somebody done that before? My fabrication skills and tools are rather limited though.

I'm really getting sick of working on this project. I just want them to work... but I'm getting to the point of giving up for a while and just accepting that the ports will have to stay wired open.

 

umm......Theres lots of thread on electric conversions for the actuators. Ive done the electric conversion on mine and works prefectly, I post a thread on how to do it.

chris

 

I'm talking about bypassing the use of air pressure completely--not just electronically controlling an air pump, which is what your thread was about.

I have not been able to open the ports with air pressure at all.

 

http://www.zaxjax.com/electronicAPVS.htm

Well, looks like somebody's tried it and it probably won't work.

 

i have not wired mine open before, and as i understand you would lose some low end tourque, but is it signifacant? if you race and whatnot above 5k all the time and daily drive normally would you even notice? just wondering

 

it's a pain in the *** around town with them wired open, and 5th gear is completely lifeless on the highway. That being said, it's liveable. I'm just at the point right now where I started a project a long time ago and I just want to see it finished. I wish I had a rotary mechanic closer to me... I'm getting ready to open my wallet and make this somebody else's problem.

When I went to Virginia International Raceway I did found the lack of low end problematic at some points because the 4.10 rear does not keep you tached high enough on an n/a. There are points where you are nearly maxed out in one gear but still kinda too low for the next one

 

Remove them completely or buy new functioning ones.

 

well are they frozen or do they move freely?

 

The gasket mating surface has to be VERY clean - any small leak will let the air out and prevent the actuators from opening.

My method for getting my aux ports working (I assume we're talking about the S4 here, because the S5 is easier):

Remove the actuators, and make sure they actuate properly.
Using a good gasket scraper, remove ALL the gasket material from both sides. Then check it again. It has to be really, really clean.
Determine which side of the actuator will be receiving air (one side will get air, one side just needs to seal).
Using RTV, put a thin layer on both sides of the mating surface. Make sure the air hole is clear, but you can seal up the other side.
Put the actuators on. Clamp them down, but NOT TOO TIGHT - if you clamp them too tight, you squeeze the RTV out and it won't seal. I believe I went finger tight plus another half turn or so.
Let it dry.

If this doesn't work, make sure there are no other odd leaks. Pressurizing the system and using soapy water would be useful.

-=Russ=-

 

I tried my best to get the old gasket material off but I know I didn't get it all off. I used some PB blaster on it and a paint spackle type scraper thing, but there was definately some residue still. What is this gasket removal tool? The spackle was only marginally useful.

When you say both sides of the mating surface, you mean put sealant on both the actuator itself and where it attaches to the manifold right? I think I'm going to say **** the OEM gaskets and try your method the next time I get a chance to work on this, which could be a couple weeks...

Do the s5 actuators work on an S4?