13bturborx7

iTrader: (34)

Hey guys im in the process of building my s4 tII engine. Im looking to get somewhere in the 450 hp range. Need a few pointers. Im using a gsl-se shaft. Fd oil pressure regulator, pinned the engine, bridge ported.

Are fd stationary gears and bearing recommended for somthing like this? Would i need to use the front counterweight and thrust bearings?

Also rotor bearing. Should i use the fd bearing also?

Just trying to make a bulletproof reliable engine. Any pointers or upgrades info would be great!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The FD stationary gears already come with windowed bearings, better than your S4 stationaries. Someone else can confirm though that if you use the FD front stationary you need to use FD front stack (Torrington bearings and such) parts. I can't remember.

There are competition deep grove rotor bearings. In general rotor bearings don't fail. If you are going to see bearing failure it will be with the stationaries.

With the S4 irons, you're going to want to check the lower spark plug side cooling jacket area to make sure the wall is not worn thin nor the o-ring grove wall cracked. Very common issue which can break under high power due to a thin casting in that area.

I'd recommend moving the turbo oil feed line off of the front iron and simply plugging that hole with a steel bolt/oring. Reason being that is the location front cover cracks tend to start. In my opinion aggravated by installing aluminium fittings or tapping to NPT. You can pull oil from the filter pedestal.

Beyond that, and I'm sure others will add some stuff, it is the standard stuff. Keep the water and oil cool. Big intercooler to keep IATs down. Over build the fuel system with quality components. And above all there's the tune.

My experience has also been that at those power levels, a CDI box on the leading coil is very beneficial. Helps lighting off those rich mixtures under boost especially if you are using some aux injection. And the bonus being that it makes it very difficult to flood out the engine during tuning/breakin. And you can run your plugs much longer.

13bturborx7

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the pointers. I was wondering becuase i have tons of fd stationary gears. I prob will just get a set of 3 widow bearings for some s5 stationary gears that i have i know they are hardened as opposed to the s4.
The irons are in really good condition. No wear at all around the water jacket grooves.

Thanks though i do appreciate the help on the oil feed and cdi box. Im jumping over from the fd grounds for my first gen lol

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Aren't MSP gears hardened, cheap, and good for high hp builds?

13bturborx7

iTrader: (34)

Msp?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

He means the 13B-MSP or Renesis.

13bturborx7

iTrader: (34)

Ohhh i see. Not sure i never really did too much research on those rx8 engines. I know the eccentric shaft is cheap and light but i dont want to use the rotors. As for the gears i dont know. I have a set actually

lduley

iTrader: (1)

you don't have to use the rotors, the only difference in the stationary gears is the rear one doesn't have an o-ring cutout, you have to RTV it for normal 13b's

I do believe they are better than FD gears though, but I could be wrong, going off of what I have read through the forums

13bturborx7

iTrader: (34)

Im pretty sure you have to use the rotors with the eccetric shaft. I can be wrong but i read a few different times about it..i think im going togo with the s5 gears with 3 widow bearings.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if you have the FD gears, just use those. multi window bearings with hardened gears. also just use the FD oil pressure regulator, its cheap $35 new.

make sure the ignition wires are new, and the trailing wires are separate from each other, and the leadings. crossfire is a problem, and avoiding it is vary easy.

once its tuned you will want colder plugs. it is perfectly acceptable to use cheap plugs to tune the idle/low speed stuff.

start with low boost and work your way up, and you should be in really good shape.

i have seen a lot of builds fail, and usually its for something really dumb. for instance 500hp car with NA spark plug wires from 1987, or tuning it up to 450hp and then switching from a 2.5" exhaust to a 3" exhaust and not retuning it (2.5 to 3" should be at least a 50hp/10% difference in power)

keep it simple and spend your money on new parts you actually NEED. these things never break stationary gears. why spend money on that, when to get to 400hp you need all kinds of other things.

Nitrometano

1. For the Apex Seals, use one of this 2 brands: Super Seals or Power Seals. I like the Power Seals.

2. For side seals and his springs, corner seals and his springs and apex seals springs use FD (twin turbo 13B) engine seals and springs.

3. Water seals: South Coast Rotary (SCR) seals or OEM. I like the SCR Seals.

4. Spark Plug Wires: MSD Custom Fit 8.5mm Super Conductor Wires

5. Spark Plugs: NGK 105 or 115 depending on your application. I like NGK 115.

6. Pre-mix oil: For street use: Quicksilver or Amsoil Synthetic. For racing: Castrol Maxxima 927

7. Racing Beat Front Pulley

8. Dual belt alternator pulley

9. Billet Fuel Rails with -8AN steel braided hoses and fittings (See this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/142349921343...84.m1555.l2649)

10. 1,600cc Fuel Injectors. I liked Bosch 0 280 150 846 or 0 280 150 842.

11. Walbro 450 in tank Fuel Pump or Bosch 044 external fuel pump with -8AN Hoses.

12. Ported and matched upper and lower manifold.

13. Ported stock throttle body or 90mm Universal Throttle Body