Yup I read it wrong, posted the pages from fsm so were all straight! Help him too

 

The BAC is just a duty controlled valve that allows air to bypass the throttle plates, the reason I have people disconnect it is so that it's not operating helping the car to 'idle', and that the mechanical idle speed is set to normal, this gives the BAC a near full operation of it's duty cycle to maintain the idle, where-as some cars idle using say 50% DC of the BAC, and can't keep up with loads. The initial set is supposed to take care of this, but I've seen cars still running on the BAC even with it grounded, thus why I prefer to disconnect it all together.

 

Cool, good info. I posted the pages for testing and adjusting all that. I just messed with my timing and tps and the car runs a lot smoother but still idles low with things such as wipers and blower running, I might re do it with your method and see what I get.

 

There is no vac leak. You would be surging and/or the idle would be high. Fully warmed, if you turn the lights off, does the idle increase? That could be the BAC. Have you tried adjusting the throttle stop screw? Turning it in a little will increase the idle (do this when fully warmed). despite a weak sounding crank, your car still started and is idling. Not a bad starting point

 

Well it's all fucked now the TPS screw aas and variable resistor were the he'll do I start now as I messed all of them?

 

So there is a coolant leak I can see it on the skid plate under the clutch fan and as far as setting those screws I fucked that up and now I'm sure the car doesn't start when hot either. So are there factory settings for theses screws. And I'll search up the hot start problem and coolant leak and see what the deal is with that

 

The variable resistor (the one mounted near the AFM) you should've just left alone. The TPS, get the car entirely warmed up, hook up a digital multimeter and get it near/as close to 1v as you can. Hot start issues are pretty common with RX7's, I wouldn't consider it too much your fault just yet.

 

Your possible coolant leak could very well be the waterpump seals, check to see if the weephole is wet.

As for the screws, the screw on top of the TB will increase idle with more screw visible, and decrease idle with less screw visible.

The TPS screw is trickier but the FSM and Haynes manual both have the procedure listed for setting to stock.

As for the throttle plate screw (the only screw that you need an 8mm wrench and a smallish flat head to work, usually has some epoxy over the screw part to keep you from messing with it), that one you can back it off the throttle linkage entirely and then carefully screw it back down into place until it just cracks open the throttle plates (as in 'just' moves the throttle stop assembly).

At this point you may also want to deflood the engine as that is probably why its not going to restart (too much fuel before it could fire), and I suggest cranking with a fully charged battery (or cranking with a jumper box/battery) to keep a full charge going.

 

I always thought were not supposed to touch the BAC adjustment screw that's what

 

I always thought were not supposed to touch the BAC adjustment screw that's what I've read multiple times. And the ECM is supposed to bump up idle for electrical loads being activated. Another common problem you'll find is the 2nd gen alternator doesn't put out enough amps.

 

Be careful about the gas smell S4 Rx7's have been know to leak fuel and Burn up !!
Check your fuel line by the Pulsation Dampner ...thats where it usually is. there are many articles in the forum to correct this issue.

 

I don't think that the pulsation dampener is leaking just the exhaust and maybe thought it was too rich but I thinking will be able to get some sun today and be able to work on it. I'm picking up a Haynes manual after work. Question about tps do u unattach the connector to read volts? Anybody know how many turns out approximately to set AAS

 

You can't check volts if it's disconnected, you would have to check ohms. 1k ohms works and should get you close.

 

Got TPS set but the air adjust screw only screws out so far and idle won't increase I think it is stuck in there with epoxy prolly?? Just a guess tho. the AAS is damaged now so Im picking up another one is it safe to take the old one out and put in a new one btw the old got damaged cause it wont screw out CCW?

 

Hot start problem doesn't seem to be very often I think I just had the initial set coupler still jumpered when I tried to start it not flooded tho so that's good

 

What are you calling the AAS? Anyway, screw the air bleed screw half in/closed then adjust the mechanical idle by adjusting the throttle stop screw. Do as was said above.

 

AAS air adjust screw on top of throttle body tsp is good why is this other screw your talking about? Tps screw is good now too. Sorry I'm a little confused

 

On another note I got a free tinted hatch lol

 

The other screw has a 8mm nut on it and functions as the throttle stop, hard to miss if you look at the linkages.

 

Thought that was the TPS screw

 

So the idle was acting weird kinda going between 1000and 1500 when warming up and I moved the carand parked it went back at it today and it would start then I got it started and shot to 2000 and then died.
Things I did today was change the belts a/p and alt belt
Possibly messed with AFM while I dropped socket wrench on skid pan and was reaching under there to grab it. But I don't think I messed anything up grabbing it
Also thought I was running out of gas when it was surging so I put 10 liters in

Also I bough a door panel for a gxl and modded it for the manual window and am working on hooking up the stereo they did a sad job of installing

 

I also found the screw with the 8mm nut that was mentioned and will try to adjust it when I get the car started again

 

Hhhm after lots of searching I'm unsure about this new sympton of the 2grand rev and die on start up. I can't get the car to run even if I use the petite just backfires and dies. If I use the fuel connector jumper will that just prove the AFM is bad if the car starts and continues to run??

 

Yes, that would indicate a faulty AFM. How long does it run before dying? Also, in your fist video, it seems low on gas. Have you put some fresh gas in there?

 

Yup put in ten liters as I can't get the car to the station for a fill up but I'm sure there is gas . It revs up to 2 grand then dies and if I give it gas it bogs hard but try's
To stay alive then dies. It's also -20c but it happened before the temperature drop and before this happened When It was warming up it was going between 1000 ad 1500 the. Next day tried to start it and it only starts once every Ten tries revs hard up to 2000 then quits and this was before the -20c weather. Should I try the fuelcheck connector first before looking elsewhere