Cars named FOURRE I believe.

4 rotor N/A > 20B turbo for shock value and uniqeness. But then again fabb'in gets me hard so the less bolt in/on the better.

 

Yep that's the one. I love that car.

Oh and it's no longer red.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2...29e1746d52.htm

 

I'd like to watch your girlfriend try to seduce you. Taking you out to the garage, she flips on the welder.......then starts to hacksaw some 1/8" aluminum plate.....grabs some filler rod and welding helmet.........

 

Why do you think I married her

She just IM'ed me about a few projects for this w/e and I nudged her a little to get with her GC friend/fathers employee about designing a 10'x12' shed in the backyard

 

Wtf!? Hes running an semi-auto tranny? It looks like he doesn't even shift!

impressive.

 

I need some alone time now.

 

this thread is a little old but iirc the owner of mazdatirx has a 4 rotor fd

 

No.

There's so much bullshit in this thread, I dunno where to start...
You guys like starting rumors or something?
Mazdatrix owns a 4 rotor? Where?


-Ted

 

I met the owner of Mazdatrix back in June when I was in Cali and went to their shop... I saw his personal car, and it does not have a 4 rotor.

 

whoa relax, thats why i said iirc, its not something i was sure of, just something i heard

 

 

Thats quite the large shaft you have Aaron...I'm a little intimidated. Do you think you can make it fit?



rofl

 

do it!!!! I'd love to see aaron's 4 rotor build thread. and i don't know if I've been out of the loop for that long, but I like your in that pic better than all black. keep us posted on the 4rotor idea..

 

It will be a while before I get started on the 4 rotor engine. That shaft is just a prototype and likely will never see the inside of an engine that runs.

 

Doesn't look like there's no center support bearing...
Made for a pair of 13B's?

Firing order 1 - 3 - 2 - 4?


-Ted

 

It's two 13B shafts combined at 90 degrees. There are two end bearings as in a stock config, and a center bearing (kinda' like a stretched 20B). The idea is to feed oil to all three bearings using a modified (Guru style) center plate with a double ended stationary gear and slightly shortened Mazda bearing. Since the oiling system will be dry sump it will easy to plumb it anywhere I want.

 

Aaron if you get that engine made.... damn the potential of it.

 

At this point it is far from if. It's basically when.

 

Looks more like 1 & 4 then 2 & 3

edit, are they phased 90*? its hard to tell from the picture

 

If anyone figures out how to assemble the 4 rotor engine kit from that web site, then let me know. I have 12k$ to spend on cars, and had planned on sinking about 2-3k$ into my '89 Saab 900S. I definitely have all the time to build, and the money for the kit. I also have two RX7's, an 86 N/A, and an 87 N/A. I also have an emaculate (did I spell that right?) 88 GXL body [besides the few rusted lines, like the rear brake line that busted getting off the freeway the other day {talk about fun!}.] I had planned on doing an all out 13b-re w/ standalone and single setup.

P.S. - Yeah, I know, I'm probably the only one on these boards that knows a bit of grammar and actually practices it.

 

you give me cash money, i fast you car!

seriously though, can a 4 rotor be had for 12k?

 

ROFLMAO!!!!! awesome! Stick it; to GraMMar Man! Stick IT HaRd!!!!


seriously though..... highly doubtful.

 

And to think I am only an hours drive from this beast and have never seen it. Just got back from morgantown today.

 

for 12k, you can have a 4-rotor engine. you won't have a car to put it in, or any accessories to go on it, but you could have a sweet short block!

 

For $12K US, you might be able to get the block built.

Kiwi RE sells their 4 rotor kit for $9,500 NZD, which is about $7,039.75 US.

You are still going to need:
-4 rotors (figure about $50 each): $200
-4 rotor housings (about $400 each from Mazda, plus machine work to peripheral port at an additional $150): $2200
-Apex seals, o-rings, all other internal seals for 4 rotors: ~$2500
-Misc. build supplies: $100

So for $12039.00 you could probably have a 4 rotor short block.

Of course it will be useless because you still need to:
-Fabricate the dry sump oil pan (less then $100 if you can do it yourself)
-Set up the oil pump and tank ($2000 worth of parts)
-Mount the engine ($100 or so worth of metal and misc)
-Build a cooling system ($300-$600 aftermarket rad, $100 in plumbing for hard piping)
-Install oil coolers (2 cheap used FC coolers, $200-$300 worth of stainless line)
-Install aftermarket flywheel and clutch ($600)

Now the engine is in the car. It won't do anything because there is no way to control it nor is there an intake and exhaust:

-Standalone to run 8 injectors and 8 ignition channels ($2000)
-Large aftermarket fuel pump, injectors, line, regulator ($2500)
-Custom intake manifold with 4 ITBs, 8 injector bungs, sensors, airbox, etc. ($Not even worth it if someone else is being paid to do it...price varies wildly if you do it yourself depending on what you choose but figure $500-$3000)
-Custom medium length 4 into 2 header ($300 to do it yourself, $1000 for a shop to fab it)
-Catback with resonators, dual ($300-$400 if you do it yourself, $600-$800 for a shop)

Then there is tuning and debugging time, etc. And I didn't even mention anything about converting to the TII transmission.

If you have to pay a shop to do the work, you're looking at a $60,000 project. If you can do it yourself, a lot of those costs can be cut because you can choose parts based on price, availability and such. Labor being the largest cost then becomes "your time".

I'll be doing all the work myself but then I've also decided to go for some extras as well. For example, your $12K would almost cover the RB aluminum "irons" I am planning to run. Hence my budget for the project is "whatever it costs".