Sonic

Rob at Pineapple swears by the FD motor. So I think I might end up going that way with an 87 T2. I'm sure it's been done before so I thought I'd get some opinions and advice on it.

I know motor mounts are an issue, not worried about that however. I am also under the impression that the T2 turbo manifold will bolt up with the FD engine with maybe a little port match work, nothing major.

Then with switching over sensors and what not from the T2 to the FD motor I can run the FC wiring and computer.

Anything else I should know about?

FC Drifter

in all honesty im not sure why you would want to do that. in my opinion, it just isnt worth the work. there are a lot of differences between FC and FD motors externaly, but on the inside, the 13BREW is very similar to the 89+ T2 motor. a well tuned 13BT can make just as much power as a 13BREW. i personaly have never seen it done, but it may have been done by someone here. i just dont see the point in it. my .02

AreExSeven

rob swears by alot of things though....

like a 12a can redline well above 10,000 RPM

IWNTA20B

Damn AreExSeven!! Now that's what I call an ***!!

IWNTA20B

You CANNOT use the stock ECU and wiring harness onto an FD engine. You're talking a whole new headache when it comes to vacuum diagrams. Now, if you plan on gutting everything and going single turbo and stand alone, that's something different.

Sonic

Well have you done it IWNTA20B? Or even tried it?

Rob showed me the port work he can do on a FC and what he can do on an FD motor. There is a MAJOR difference in space. And the parts prone to cracking on the FC motor too.

Rob made it sound pretty easy, nothing too crazy.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

So much to say about this...... #1, FD and series 5 have significant differences... rotors and seals are all about that share part #'s. #2 stock fc computer running it?? It won't run worth a pooh unless you get someone to burn you a new chip for it, even with all the "band aids / piggy back computers" it most likely still will have glitches. It probly will be more cost effective and WAY better to go after market ems. If you really are going to go through all the trouble of a swap like this,,, just get a Cosmo 13b-re 2 rotor. It has HUGE ports and a higher flowing intake manifold and throttle body set up. The cheapest and easiest thing to do is just go with a series 5 Turbo II motor, they can make in excess of 500 hp, pleanty for any street car.

vaughnc

Yeah having a Series VI Turbo II would be sweet.

I'm not sure about the motor mounts on the 13B-rew engine, but I've heard the similar series V j-spec 13B-tt cosmo engine motor mounts are sold onlinke. In fact someone just recently posted pictures of his TII with the 13B-tt cosmo in it I believe.

RETed

I'm not IWNTA20B, but lets turn the questions around to you, Sonic - have you tried it?

Are you talking about keeping the stock twin turbos on the 13B-REW and keeping the stock sequential system?&nbsp Stock FC3S computer is not going to control that.

Are you talking about converting the 13B-REW to non-sequential?&nbsp The stock FC3S computer is not going to control that either, because the stock 13B-REW doesn't come with an air flow meter, which the stock FC3S computer needs to function properly.

Are you talking about installing any configuration of the stock 13B-REW motor into an FC3S chassis without regard to the air flow meter&nbsp Not possible - see above answer.

There are several factors with the stock FC3S ECU that need to be addressed - the big one is the stock air flow meter.&nbsp It could be conceivable that you can adapt the stock FC3S air flow meter onto the 13B-REW engine, but that's a "hack" just to get everything running; I doubt you'll see the stock numbers of 255hp at the flywheel doing this - the stock air flow meter is that restrictive.

Now, this is assuming you can even get the 13B-REW engine mounted into the FC3S engine bay.&nbsp Yes, I have "tried it".


The FC3S (Zenki) engine is good to 400hp; have you any need for something that produces more power?&nbsp The 13B-REW gives you another ~100hp over that - maybe 200hp maximum.&nbsp Can you tune an engine that produces that kinda numbers?



-Ted

Sonic

I have not tried it, exploring options at this point. The TII body will be getting a quicky rebuild just to last a while for now. Until my main car sells and I can build a nice motor.

I was going to take the REW motor and put the TII manifold/turbo on it. Along with the TII wiring, air meter, and ECU. Using all TII sensors as I said to begin with.

Rob does talk to people as if they have endless income too. He said my biggest problem is mounts. And I don't think mounts are that big of an issue with something like this.

I am going to avoid using a stand alone system at any cost. That's more than what I want to spend.

But as you said... Do I NEED that much power? NO! I'm building a daily driver here and want it streetable. Streetable with a reasonable amount of power.

I think with all this talk I'm just better off with a 13B TII motor built nicley 3mm Apex seals and all the other works. Then have it fine tuned at Excessive Motorsports (Portland area Oregon). That should get me a nice running powerful streetable motor I think....

Thanks for the help guys.

bcty

why dont you just take all the computers from the 3rd gen and put it in the 2nd gen... it shouldnt be to hard... probally better if u want to avoid stand alone..

vaughnc

Sonic,

I'm planning a supercharged 13B or 13Bt series V 2nd gen motor with a "flat" goal of 250hp/ft-lbs of torque. Boost below 2500 rpms helps give that larger engine feel and a flater torque/hp curve makes it much more streetable.

Just a thought. The 13b-rew setup has twin turbo's that accomplish something similar but not as affective.

Yes RETED 250HP is all I want to make on the vert.

HN

"Just a thought. The 13b-rew setup has twin turbo's that accomplish something similar but not as affective."

I had the twins working perfectly "sequentially" and had no loss of toque down low. the only thing i didn't like was accidentally hitting the switch over on the second turbo on a turn. with the haltech it was either on or off at whatever rpm you were at if the first turbo was already at boost.

RETed

You could sell that 13B-REW engine and buy two 13BT J-spec engines.&nbsp Hell, you can sell the 13B-REW engine and get enough money to buy a pretty good rebuild.

I guess some people are just stubborn...


-Ted

soul assassin

well here is my .02 cents. use a 89-91 plates with FD housings and FC low comp rotors. then swap over to a FD mani and t.b and waa laa depinding on what port you use you will be over 350whp easily! if your so concerned about strength throw a couple extra dowel pins in there.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Yep, I'm doing it just like Soul says (didn't get the 93+ housings though :-( )- with Rob's help. Let Rob know your total budget for the engine/system and he will know whats best.
Stand alone is pretty cheap now ($800 for Haltech E6k) I wouldn't bother w/ stock 3rd gen computer, it sucks for modding (map system isn't adaptive to changes in VE-unless you can tailor the maps like w/ stand alone!)- if you are running a 13brew "block" for its ability to port large and the mods to match, the stock 3rd gen ECU would only be a liability.
I will be running large street port 89+ "block", 87 rotors, 3mm seals, 93+ to 89+ intake manifolds, a 89+ turbo w/ T04B 60-1 compressor w/ "O" trim exhaust, NPR IC and Haltech. Should deliver over 300HP to the wheels. Its comming together-slowly...Ian

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

BLUE TII I keep bumping into you..lol.. I'm building pretty much same motor :O but I'm running a Wolf 3D 89-91 rotors (higher comp, lighter, lower comp not nessary unless poor tunning or EXTREME boost levels, like 17 psi or more) 2mm, 93+ housings.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I'm going for RELIABILITY (5yr warranty spec rebuild w/ oiling mods in that Pineapple rebuild too), thats why I chose low comp rotors. I will try to keep boost low, thats why I have conservative HP goals for large SP, 60-1 compressor and no emmisions.

Sonic

Yes, with my little experience modifying rotarys I think I'll just hand Rob parts and a wad of cash and say "here, do whatevever you feel you need to" Tell him what I plan to do with the car and what not.

I guess we'll see. I don't even own the car yet.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

I hear ya!! Im after reliability also, Im having a lot of internal coatings done and am going to run conservative boost levels also (all i want is 300-350hp) and hope it to last 100k miles. It *might* be possible with CAREFUL attention to toleraces, picking propery componates and a good oiling system. i want to make every aspect to be as efficient as possible so I dont have to run extreme amounts of boost. I can go on and on about my plans...lol. look at my other motor I *had* built https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=82141

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Nice NA 13B RacerX! Yeah, I'm trying to boost VE to gain power instead of running high boost. We'll see how it works. If its too laggy for me I have a Millenia S SC I will toss on to twin charge it. 3 1/2" JIC exhaust and horizontal mount IC should help cut lag though. Feel free to PM me for details and we can bounce ideas off eachother-Ian.