3k rpm idle
#3
well, i would say.. use the search and read around. not just on the forum, but maybe google.
and depending on how cold the weather is, the AWS(accelerated warm-up system) may take a while longer... especially winter times...
and depending on how cold the weather is, the AWS(accelerated warm-up system) may take a while longer... especially winter times...
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i tried that it went down to 1000 and keep going up and down from 1000 to 1500 wont go lower i was told i could be a vacuum leak. also what is the pressure sensor? what does it do.
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one way my friend always uses to find a vaccuum leak is to turn the engine on and spray carb cleaner and if its revs at any time it sucks up the carb cleaner and that means there's a leak... another think is your gas cap is pressurized so if you unscrew it and you hear no hissing from it, there's most likely a leak
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oh, if it is a bouncy idle then it is the TPS because thats how i fixed mine... one way to tell with a bouncy idle is to push the end into the TPS to see if that will stop the idle... if when you push anything into the TPS and the erratic idle stops then you know its the Throttle Position Sensor
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here is the thing tho when i push it all the way down it idles at 700 but soon as i let it go it goes back to 2000 and i fixed the bouncy idle it was as you guys said the TPS.
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My s5 turbs idles at a steady 1500 at start up, but sometimes, say when im starting up for my drive home after work, it can start at 1500, drop to 700 (which is awesome because the Brap Brap sound is very deep) but then lift back to 1500 when she feels the need to, then its a steady idle. its like it has a mind of its own and it never happens regularly, only when she wants to remind me i have to much money.
I have also had a situation that in one particular shopping centre carpark, it doesnt start straight away, i have to coax it and talk lovingly untill she decides that its time to leave..
i heart RE's!! eeehee
I have also had a situation that in one particular shopping centre carpark, it doesnt start straight away, i have to coax it and talk lovingly untill she decides that its time to leave..
i heart RE's!! eeehee
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#23
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Answered in other thread.
Look in the FUEL AND EMISSION section of the FSM. It outlines a procedure on testing the sensor. Isn't too hard to test.
Doubt it unless the the vacuum hose connecting to the sensor is ripped. I've unplugged my boost sensor (the electrical connector to it) and the car idled the same.
Look in the FUEL AND EMISSION section of the FSM. It outlines a procedure on testing the sensor. Isn't too hard to test.
Doubt it unless the the vacuum hose connecting to the sensor is ripped. I've unplugged my boost sensor (the electrical connector to it) and the car idled the same.
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More then likely your cold start cam is sticking, or the coolant lines to the thermowax have been disconnected.
No, NO NO! NEVER, EVER start messing with adjustments like this unless all other problems are eliminated. Trying to fix the idle by adjusting the idle screw (do you really think that such a screw could suddenly be adjusted wrong out of absolutely no where?) is just going to compound the issue until the real problem (described above) is fixed.
No, NO NO! NEVER, EVER start messing with adjustments like this unless all other problems are eliminated. Trying to fix the idle by adjusting the idle screw (do you really think that such a screw could suddenly be adjusted wrong out of absolutely no where?) is just going to compound the issue until the real problem (described above) is fixed.