nopistonsPWR

yeah i was wondering can you make a 89 na up to about 300 horses with an extend port. i know you got to get racing radiator, intake system, cat back, headers and what else.. to make it 300 horses allmotor non turbo with extend port. a good extend port should increase 50 hp..

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

but increasing the HP 50HP from 160 won't get you 300, it'll get you 210. At the flywheel.

nopistonsPWR

but can their be any other tun up to increase the hp

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

add a turbo.

forced inducted fd dude

i have a 87 n/a and i was thinking this would make it ******* powerful:
aluminum rotor housings
aluminum upgrade for the iron plates
light waight racing beat rotors
rx8 e-shaft ( its a half pound lighter)
porting
msd ignition system
holly top carb/intake system
light waight flywheel
racing beat water jacket process to the housings
upgraded fuel system
koyo radiator
aluminum drive shaft
and i cant think of anything else at the moment but pretty much a lighter motor and drive train would help, im not sure but all this will be on my wish list as soon as i have 100% everything ill need

nopistonsPWR

nah im not trying to put a tturbo on it. just want it to be all motor and so people can under estimate the motor and how fast it is..

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

P-Port is the only way.

contactsysadm

Just note that if you go all-motor with headers, no cats and a huge port job, the car is going to be LOUD.

Valkyrie

Dream on... or get nitrous. Either way, it's not going to be cheap.

A 300-HP P-port would also be undriveable on the street (it would probably idle at like 2000 RPMs).

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

learn to spell please . . .

the lighter parts arent going to gain you THAT much power . . sorry, but no . . .
and the water jacket mod is worthless unless its an all out race motor they happen to state that on the page for that service, its pretty much useless.
aluminum driveshaft? haha have you weighed the stock one? its not heavy by any means

NZ_87_TURBO

bullshit. People drive PP's roundin NZ all the time on the road.
And its more likely to idol at 3000RPM but who gives a ****. thats what a PP is all about.
it is the only way your gona get 300rwhp out of a NA tho, either that or a mean J port or super awesome BP.
eitherway your extended port will only just get you to 200.
it will be easyer and cheaper to do a turbo swap id say.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

by undrivable he means extremely unpleasant to drive. of course anything that moves is technically drivable on the street, but would you enjoy being stuck in stop and go traffic with a power band like that? you'd burn up clutches like butter...

not to mention alot of people have to pass emissions tests. something tells me a PP with straight exhaust is not going to pass with flying colors.

edmcguirk

Since very few mods besides a turbo can increase the Torque, all you have to do is figure out how many RPM you will need to turn 140 TQ into 300 HP.

You will need to be able to make the engine breathe and survive 11,000 RPM at a minimum. More likely you will need 13,000. (5250 *300/140=11,250)

An engine that can do that is not going to be a sleeper. You would spend less money and get more stealth and drivability with a turbo.

But it's your money...

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

you could break 300 with a properly set up supercharger and a mild streetport, just dont buy the camden S/C kit, its retarded crap.
i'm playing with the idea of supercharging the atkins rebuilt keg i'm dropping in my '88
with standalone ems a good tune and the right setup i'm sure i could squeeze upwards of 250whp and still have it emissions legal and very driveable

MetalX7

but a 13k rpm revving car must be fun to drive on a track =)

NZ_87_TURBO

Id say it would be dam fun to drive on the road to.
people have this misconception that a PP has no power down low. you can still drive it round just fine granny shifting if you want. its just that your not gona have 300rwhp at 5000 kinda like you would if you had a turbo. also dont forget a PP revs up very quickly so your not left waiting around for it to get into powerband

Valkyrie

+1

Also, there is a pretty big gap between having maybe 250 flywheel horsepower (for a mild PP) with an NA and 300 at the rear-wheels with an all-motor PP (race PP)...

I don't consider a 3000-RPM idle to be something you could call a street car, either.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

He wants a rotary, not a piston motor.
And a p-port isn't that bad on the street, but thats for one that puts down maybe 230 at the wheels. To get one that puts out 300 to the wheels, its going to need to rev to 11k and will have so high of an idle that it is basically undrivable on the street. Also, it will be any but a sleeper. You could have a monster turbo and be more a sleeper than with a p-port. The second anyone hears it they will know you have a serious engine.

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Not to mention in the FAQ there is a fairly lenghty a thorough thread call "How to make a beefy NA" I would recomend checking it out.
Also if you want a sleeper look, an FMIC can be tucked just before the rad by moving it back a little bit. A BOV does not need to be loud, get a muffled one the recirculate it back into the system. You can have much more power and TQ this way while keeping an NA sleeper look/ sound.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

This NA POWUH bullshit happens in every platform pretty much, and its annoying as ****. No one actually goes through with it and if some wierd idiot wanting to be "different (*special)" actually does, he will feel stupid at the end after having wasted money on a worthless project and get the top model (TII in this case).

Boost = power. If you want to spend more money and less power, then stay NA.

Eternal_Gamer

iTrader: (10)

give it up and get a Turbo or shoot for 200+ whp only. Turbo is gonna get you to 300whp easier and will be much more reliable than a 300 whp na. Think of what you would have to do to the car to get 300whp. ****, 300hp to the flywheel is hard enough. lots of money gonna be spent over $10k+ and if you pay someone for labor, god only knows how much. good luck on that. lets say you get 300hp to the flywheel and let's say you spend $10k on it, and I wil spend $3k on a rebuild, bnr stage 1 turbo at 15psi, fmic, and my current mods, I gurantee you I will defeat you every single time without a t4. why waste ur time and money on it. 200whp na is doable and not too expensive, but 300hp is out of the question.

calrx7

if ur gonna go 300, go turbo.

ur ***** gonna be loud, wont pass emmisions, A TRUE RACE CAR HAAHHHAHAHA

or u can go 3 rotor, thats like ez 300 hp right there

sniperstevedave

What I plan on doing is tuning to get the max performance out of the na. That means exhaust, intake, fuel, and haltech, etc. Then consider porting options. When I can't get any farther, supercharge at 6 to 8 psi. Still use the stock na motor (with just enough modification to handle the low boost pressure), keep it quite, streetable, reliable, but increase the torque and power, especially at the lower end, getting a wider power band. Then more tuning. Overall, lots and lots of dyno time (spread out so I can afford it). But don't aim for a specific figure, just keep pushing the envelope, going at it systematically and scientifically.

Someone said camden supercharger kits are POS. Why/on what grounds?

RETed

I believe this kit requires you to abandon the stock fuel injection and go carb.


-Ted

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

They have an EFI setup, but it costs a good bit more. From what I've read, there is nothing wrong the camden setup, its just that people see the price and want more peak hp than it puts out. What you get is an engine that was excellent mid-range power and is perfect for the street driving most people do in 7's. You don't get the kit for peak power, you get it for overall power and torque.