250 wheek hp
 

what is it going to take to get 250 hp power to the wheels of my 87 turbo II. i have a 2.5 inch rb dp and i think it has a fuel cut defenser( how can i tell?) my budget is about 2.5k - 3k.
thanks guys

title is suposed to be *wheel*

fmic, fuel controller, upgrade rad, hybrid turbo, e-fan, more fuel.

cool anyone else

rebuild with streetport : 1200-2000
Hybrid turbo: 500-800ish
720 CC injectors: 400-500
AFC: 300
Full exhaust from the DP back: 500
Walbro 255: 100
Intake, manual boost controller, boost gauge: 200? you can peice this stuff together.

remove emissions etc...

Get the rebuild for reliability at 250hp, a tired engine won't respond well to upgrades. The fresher the parts are the more reliability you are going to see from the car. The fuel needs to be brought up when you raise the boost in the car.

agreed with the FMIC as well

engine only has about 30k on it jspec rebuilt

thanks guys i'm setting up the car for drifting so reliabilty is a must and power isn't but i also want a semi fast car! this is very helpful

First thing is you don't need an E-fan. There are countless debates on this.~$0

Secondly, You will need to upgrade fuel system, i.e 720cc injectors and a Walbro or FD fuel pump. ~$250

Thirdly, The racing beat turbo exhaust is your best bet. Racingbeat.com under exhaust. ~$780

Fourthly, FMIC. Greddy makes a great one for the FC. I don't have a link to a vendor for this, but it is a great buy. ~$700

Fifthly, a streetported, rebuilt motor. Rotary Ressurection (spelling) has great prices. ~$1400

That should easily put you into your power needs.

You may want a Haltech system also.

Lastly, all JSpec motors have about 30k on them. It was most likely not rebuilt, but came with those original miles.

EDIT: FMIC on rx7store.net for $975

where can u find an fmic for 700?

You don't really need FMIC for 250rwhp. I'm running around 290rwhp on stock TMIC.

Yeah I agree that alot of what is said is not needed to make that much power. you could probably get close to if not the hole 250rwhp buy

1. intake
2. full turbo back exhaust
3. safc
4. 720cc secondaries
5. fcd (fuel cut defence)
6. manual or electric boost controller.

You don't need to port your engine to get that kind of hp but it would be nice if you want like 300+.

If you build your own, you can do it for well under $700. I'm designing an FMIC kit right now, but it will not be ready for production for a couple of months (money is tight).

However, the intercooler design IS done, and in about two weeks, you should be able to contact my supplier directly, ask for the intercooler i had designed for the 2nd gen, and get it shipped to you for about 320 bucks total.

You'll have to fabricate you own pipe work, and buy the silicone couplers, but you should be able to do that for less than $380!


HOWEVER, for 250 HP, i tend to agree that the stock TMIC should be ok as long as you tune the fuel in well and don't do a lot of stop and go driving where the intercooler will heatsoak.

TMIC on a hot day will be useless. here in the colder months you are getting away with it but in 3 weeks you won't

anyone have any opinions on the apex'i GT exhaust remember people emissions aren't a factor

damn

how can i tell if i have a fcd?

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=273660

this is one way to get 250 hp.

What if I wanted to get 250 RWH in an N/A? any idea how to do this?

look at your pressure sensor by the intake, if theres a box coming off of it, you probably have a FCD.

I've got a couple extra ones if you're interested. (Send a PM)

sell your car and buy a turbo

You misunderstand, I want to keep it N/A. I am opposed to the use of turbo and supercharging in this case. All I want is sheer hp out of the engine.

In that case, buy yourself a v8 to put in.

no, YOU obviously misunderstand. ;) if its even possible to get that much power out of an N/A(2 rotor), you're going to need to get some higher compression racing rotors, do some MONSTER porting, and mod everything else so it can go to like 13k rpm :D

in this case, the motor won't even be remotly reliable, and will have NO low end torque.

Why are you jacking this thread???
Go start your own thread


-Ted

just ordered my exhaust got the 2.5 inch downpipe to a 2.5 inch bonez race pipe and then a 2.5 inch apex'i GT series exhaust with a 115 mm tip. hows that sound!
$633.45 ouch :(

what should i get next?

another job, a loan, a beer.

there's a way , falcon. think you can outnumber that figure. and it's called peripheral port.

but when you'v done this mod, make sure to give out free ear plugs to all your neighbors. hahahat.

No, but that doesn't mean it's not a very worthwhile mod. There aren't many mods that can improve both power and reliability. People need to realise that it's not the flow or cooling potential of the stock IC that's the problem, it's simply the location. Even a stock engine would benefit from the IC being out front, as proven by the fact that that's where almost all factory IC's are found.
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Your engine is considerably more likely to suffer death by detonation than one making the same power with a FMIC.

death by detonation.... just what i was going to say!

my exhaust should be here this week

a stock turbo should be able to make 250whp (thats about it) but a FMIC is a good idea if you go that route.

i feel the same way too.

STOCK FMIC is fine!
STOCK turbo is fine!
STOCK ECU is fine!

you need a the exhaust you already bought, TID mod, FCD, Walbro or Denso Fuel Pump, Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, and 15lbs of boost!

to get more power and be safer at the same time, you can rebuild your turbo to a hybrid, you can get a front mount IC, you can get 720 secondaries, and you can get a SAFC to control them.

Stock FMIC? :confused:

hehe oops

Lol

how hard is it to install the SAF-C? how hard is it top tune?

too* tune sorry

to* tune;)

its not that hard to tune to drive, but you have to be careful, don't want to lean it out too much. Its best to justr fork over the money and tune it to a wideband on the dyno...more power that way and a lot safer.

-Ben

how hard are they to install? are the instructions in english?

they are multilingual. To install it, pull up the carpet and flooring on the passenger side, pull off the ecu cover, pull out the connectors, read directions, find your car in the SAFC booklet, splice their harness into your ecu harness according to the colors they give you. In the end its basically stripping and soldering about 20 wires(or so...). It could be a little scary if you are new to electrical, so I'd reccomend a friend to watch you and make sure you don't do something stupid.

-Ben

holy crap guys the exhaust sounds so sweet!!!
i even got some flames. i took a bunch of pics of it and i'll post them up soon. i've been hittin high psi's and i want to know whats safe for me, if any can help i would appreciate it.

assuming you are running the stock intake and s4 turbo, you are probably running 7-9 pounds of boost. you are safe right now, but fuel and controller should be your next power mod.

my boost guage said eleven when i was pushing it in 4th!! thats 11!

also what is a " tid " thanks guys

wow...you need to get a boost controller and port your wastegate. A tid is "turbo inlet duct" so basically the piping between your afm and turbo, the stock one is black and s-shaped, and very restrictive.

how much is a good tid? were is a good spot to get one? and how hard is that to install?

2a+ron on the forum here sells them pretty cheap, but it is a home-made style. some guy on here made some welded up ones that were a little more restrictive but had the bling factor. your looking at 20-120 dollars depending on quality. its really easy to install