You've proven my point Krazykoncepts. You need to do a bit more research and lay out a solid plan for the vehicle instead of asking blanket questions. You notice how varied some of the answers are but generally in the same arena. This is because you've given no specifics. Trying to help but being real about it. Keep it realistic..

Now, what are your ultimate plans for the car?

 

right now i have my drag 2nd gen gtu to 2100 w/o motor

 

you could always but yourself on a diet.

 

Where the hell did you find this thread!?

--Gary

 

I got an S4 GXL down to 620 Lbs once.

 

i on a diet!!

subway!!! EAT FRESH!!
no serious though...i wouldnt sacrafice my 7 for a few pounds..

 

there is so much "random crap" that you can remove.

my 10AE has a full interior (or looks like it does anyways) and sits higher than stock on 1.5" lowering springs, to give you an idea of how much I've removed.

some ideas:

headlight washer tank
brake cooling ducts
power steering cooler (loop the lines, remove the p/s entirely in fact)
a/c condensor
the indash a/c crap
airpump muffler
the misc. crap under the car that does nothing anymore (extra supports for exhaust you don't use, etc
extra heatshielding
tar on the floors and other sound deadening (big one here, if you have the dash out get rid of that giant firewall pad it's heavy as hell!)
air pump and emissions crap
charcoal canister, the lines for the charcoal canister
single exhaust = lighter than dual
stereo crap is heavy, you won't be able to hear it anyways after you've gutted the car, so out with it!
since you have it gutted anyways at this point, why bother keeping the door/hatch seals?
power antenna
I never did figure out what the seat was for that's on the other side of the car, how are you suppossed to drive from there? So yeah, it can come out too.. I think they leave it in from the RHD cars.
since you have no seat there, ECU kick panel becomes useless
popup headlights are heavy, convert them to manual for 5lb savings - gut them entirely and don't drive at night is always an option too.
lighter wheel and tire combo!
after that
get out the holesaw! if it's just going to be an autox car or something anyways, there's a lot of stuff that has a whole lot more metal than is really necessary in it.


you really have to decide what you want from the car though, gutting the interior will ruin it's daily-driverness..

 

dont the ajustable shocks the gxl comewith have more wight than the regular ones, sorry not sure if it was mentioned before

 

Do you realize that you only gain a tenth of a second for every 100lbs dropped? Who wants to ride in a skeloton with an engine. (not fun at all)

 

^^matter of opinion

 

That is so wrong it's not even funny. 1000 lbs off a car does NOT get only 1 second off...

3000 lb : 300 rwhp
10:1

2000lb : 300 rwhp
6.66:1

Hm, make a lot of a sense, does it? Sorry, NO.

People need to stop spreading lies about this; It's getting rediculous.

 

^ People need to learn to read?

He said 100lbs not 1000lbs. And I'd agree, 100 lbs is round about a tenth of a second... thats a big generalization but it's close.

His point was basically that if you're doing an autox/street car, leave your stuff in your damn car... riding around in a skeleton with an engine sucks and you're gonna gain a max of less than half a second on your overall times.... 99% of the people out there could make up for that time by just driving better.

--Gary

 

Get an FB. ; )

 

And WOW, I didn't realize how old this thread was.

 

heh, old thread...

but for those of you who say not to remove the tar, i don't think you understand... if you want to remove the heavy *** foam backed carpeting, you leave the tar exposed. When the tar is exposed, especially in sunlight, it gets soft and sticky... anything that touches it gets tar on it and its disgusting.

so, you generally have to remove the tar if you want to remove the carpet, unless you want everything getting tar on it.

 

get rid of the stock wiring harness...

 

everything but important systems out.



everything that doesnt control an engine function is gone.



just basic control's here

 

yeah... 1/10 for 100 pounds is 1 second for 1000lbs...

I think thats a bit off though, id think more like 1/4-1/5 per hundred pounds... That would be closer cause 500 pounds off I can easily see dropping a second off your et.

 

Get rid of your abs and put it direct brakes from older cheaper fc. That thing weighs about 15 to 20 pounds...

Besides it makes you a better driver=D

 

lol @ weight reduction . . .

 

i disagree with most of the posts on this thread, i had a 1990 gxl also, and all i did was gut the rear interior, put a single exhaust on it and i got it down to just over 2200 pounds, not sure of the exact number but it was under 2300 for sure. but the lexan rear window will help alot, and if you have a sunroof, taking that out and just leaving the skin will help alot, also get aftermarket bucket seats, the are alot lighter than the stock seats which i believe weigh in at 30 lbs each

 

dude....... how can removing carpet that weighs no more than 50lbs and took out no more than 50 lbs of piping make you car go from nearly 2700 lbs to 2300lbs...

I dont see it. I need proof. go weigh it at truck station or something.

 

The interior is more than just carpet, there's door panels, glove box, center console, headliner, etc, etc, etc. But I also have a hard time beleiving 2200lbs with just gut and exhaust. That's about a 600lbs weight removed.

Seriously, the best lightness mod, go on a diet if you're not already thin.

Here's a site of someone who religously lightended their Miata, and they weighed everything after. It'll give you an idea of what a part might weigh.

http://ww2.lightweightmiata.com:8080/

 

I call BS too. Show us a video of it on a certified weigh station (truck station, city dump, etc) with the weight displayed and then I'll start to believe you.

 

i weighed at 2420 i think with no AC PS airpump, rear seats and carpet removed,spare tire.