Its smooth but very low. Its an 89GXL and the mix screw is all the way out and the TPS is adjusted 98 percent perfect..What can I look for next... I dont have the ACV and everything is capped off. I also dont have the 3000start up crap or cruise control. I do not have A/C and the bac valve is still on but seems to be good condition. Whats up? Does anyone know? I cant think of anything else.

 

this is kinda what happened to mine before and it turned out that i had a cracked manifold

 

Wich manifold. I sprayed carb throu everything and thier was no idle change. And if thier was an intake leak wouldnt it make the idle low and jumpy...Mine is just low

 

Intake leak...doesn't mean the idle will be jumpy.&nbsp jumpy idle just means the BAC is trying to readjust idle.

Where did you spray?



-Ted

 

Could it just be the simple screw that gives the car some more gas at idle

If the idle is smooth but just low

Sorry if I missed something and I am way off

Btw how does it run otherwise

 

seveninphilly...Thnx for replying but u r way off. I already said my mix screw was out but your reply is greatly apreciated anyways (excuse my frutiness).

My Bac is working so if their was a leak then it should shake because the bac is readjusting just like u said..
Seems as though u contradicted yourself. (no offense).

Is thier any way I can raise it back up??? Tighten the throtle mabey?

Yes it does run very good. 15,000 on rebuild. Very strong engines indeed. I did unimaginable things to it and it keeps rockin. The low idle and poping when cold is my only beef now.

 

I gave up, and tightened my throttle. I have to keep it at 1200 RPM, cuz if it drops below 1k, boom, down it drops to 200 all over again.

 

Have you checked the timing? A late spark will do that.

 

If the timing is spot on, and you've checked for vac leaks, why not have a go at checking your gap on the throttle plates and the setting of the idle stop screw. Heck, the idle stop screw turned just a fraction will open the throttle plates and incease the idle speed. By the way, has anyone ever thought about the consequenses of capping off the injector bleed air and the oil injectors? It seems to me that those two items are a supply of idle air, and if capped off should result in a decreased idle speed. Never did it myself, just thought about it and the consequenses. Bottom line for the question: turn the idle stop screw just a tad and all should be well. EDIT: The idle stop screw is on the front of the throttle body(n/a), and is tiny in size with a 8mm size jam nut on it. Screw is approx 1/4 inch long in length. Just to the left(lookin aft now) of the tps. Real tiny screw, not to be mistaken with the tps screw. EDIT TWO: The popping in the exaust is because you removed the acv which has a anti-afterburn feature that dumps fresh air into the intake manifold during rapid deceleration.

 

mine does it too, does the air pump need a filter where the tubing went into the stock air box? somenoe told me that the air flow is 'too' fast and acting like a vac. leak. i have weird idle...200-750 is what i get when its below 1k.

 

Sureshot...If I had a late spark I would imagine that it wouldnt be smooth right? Anyways my timing seems to be advanced it anything. The nut on the CAS is just over half way to the top.

Rico..Sounds like a bandade and not a fix to the problem

Hailers--Thnx for your post. The poping was way worse when I had the ACV on and my car is an 89 GXL so the idle mix screw is on top of the TBody. I WILL go see what your talking about next to the TPS sensor. If anyone has any pics of this post them...THNX ALOT EVERYONE.

 

Check plugs and wires while you're at it. A bad wire that has current running on the outside can do strange things.

 

VON...it kinka bothers me what you said about the cas. You really should usea timing lite to set the timing and not depend on the relative location of the attach fastener. Picky, picky. Really does not have to be and expensive lite to just set the timing. I'd borrow one if I did not have one. Turning the cas in a clockwise direction advances the timing by the way, just in case.

 

This pic http://www.rhichome.bnl.gov/People/s...rottlebody.jpg and just about two thumbs width down from the letter E in the word SCREW, is the idle stop screw. Its just to the right of three blank holes that are aligned one above the other. The screw in this pic has gook on the head and does not look too much like a screw. Ther will be a 8mm wrench size jam nut on top of it. Loosen jam nut and just barely turn the screw cw. This throttle body should be similar, but not exactly like yours. This body is out of a 88 or so car. I stole the pic from a site.

 

WOW...thnx again hailers...couldnt of been more specific.
Like rotories for dumies or somthing. I have the same thing on my 89 so I will try it tomorow.

 

By the way hailers..Do u know where I can get that intake elbow replacement. I have been wondering how I can do this for a wile.

 

Junk yard for the intake elbow. Hope the idle stop screw helps. Did not help another guy on this forum, but his problem is just the opposite. He has extra high idle and when he backed his screw all the way off the idle remained high. Some kinda jam problem or air leak problem. Yours is just the opposite and you should be able to tweak it in just a tad to jack the rpm up.

 

THnx. I tried it and worked. Got my idle up to 750.

Junk Yard? Can u hook me up with one if u know how or tell me who I can buy one from. I will pay top doller...hehe

 

Are you looking for the entire plastic from the TB to the AFM?

 

YES..but the one in the pic looks aftermarket or custom. Hailers said he got it from a junkyard??? The pic is right above us. Look at it and someone tell me where I can get one please. I noticed big gains between my old intake with the ribbed part and when I took it off and used a hose. So my guess is a streight threw desing like that would work very well. I have been trying to figure out how to make one for a wile.

 

That picture I stole from a site. The guy has a supercharger connected to his throttle body, thats why it look different from yours. I understand you need the large ribbed duct that goes from the throttle body to the afm. Ryde or Dye thought you might have meant the small elbow that is on the bottom of that large black duct. I don't have a spare large black inlet duct. Sorry. Glad the idle stop screw got you there.

 

Hailers. Its definatly not the camden supercharger. Can u direct me to his site please.

 

So, did adjusting that screw hlep out von? I am gonna try it tomorrow.

 

I think there is a problem with the jpg that I copied in an above post. Now I stole that off a web site and it had some yellow writing on it telling someone where this and that are. The screw that I am talking about is NOT circled in that picture and I think someone might think I'm talking about the tps screw. I am not. So I have the following picture below on a jpg that I circled the area of the screw with a purple circle to define the area. P.S. I think it was von who pm'd me that it did work for him.

 

I think there is a problem with the jpg that I copied in an above post. Now I stole that off a web site and it had some yellow writing on it telling someone where this and that are. The screw that I am talking about is NOT circled in that picture and I think someone might think I'm talking about the tps screw. I am not. So I have the following picture below on a jpg that I circled the area of the screw with a purple circle to define the area. P.S. I think it was von who pm'd me that it did work for him. EDIT: SORRY, THE JPG DID NOT TAKE