on my 87 t2 the EGR is practically hidden on the LIM on the firewall side.


Yeah, I want an N/A.
N/A Rotaries have the best powerband on earth! just not all the power that some people desire.

 

actually, I think I remember only the 86-88 having an EGR.. I don't think 89-91 had them.

and I just checked mazdatrix.. they don't show a replacement for the 89-91.. but every other year.. so I might be right on that.

 

Calm down, stop taking your aggression on your lack of knowledge, skills and ability to tune out on others prospect.

 

how many miles are on the engine. no point on getm upgrades when your only gonna get 20,000 miles out of your car. i would look into a fresh rebiuld that way u can handle any mods u throw at it

 

I'll let the dyno sheets speak for themselves (his tailpipe wideband reads a little lean, but my onboard one had the correct AFR's).

172 on SAFC

172 on Megasquirt (dynosheet on left), dialed in better but of course you can see the electrical noise... trying to run a standalone on a 18 year old wiring harness runs a risk of this. I never had any random problems or hesistations on the stock ECU. So what was I supposed to do, put in a new wiring harness? For what, the magical 10, 20, 30 whp that a standalone generates on an n/a? Is a perfect timing map really gonna do this? I took the MAF out too... I don't think that makes much of a difference on an n/a either.

As for tuning skill... I spent $400 at a local shop and spent hours upon hours reading the MegaManual. I learned a ton about how EFI systems work. I don't regret that at all. I feel so much more knowledgeable, but those were expensive lessons...

I kept my mouth shut about all this for a while because I didn't want to pick a fight with Tofuball etc. They make a good product and they know what they're doing. But for my purposes, extracting every last hp out of my setup, it didn't do the job, and I don't think it has much added benefit over an SAFC, especially given the huge time investment in just figuring out what every option on that thing does. I don't have any problem with them. I just think there are a lot of myths about n/a's that people don't understand--like this whole "you can make 200whp thing," like it's somewhat common, even though I've never seen a dyno sheet for one on here in the over two years that I've been around.

Of course there are a couple counterexamples to this, like Kahren's car (and he ran I think a Microtech with a new harness). But he's an exception... I mean he makes custom manifolds and stuff. That's sweet, but I just can't justify the time and money expense of going that for for 10-15 hp and 1 more mph in the traps. Better off putting it into suspension.

 

Well i have a similar situation as micaheli. I live in NYC, i want to have my rx-7 push out as much HP as i can without adversely changing her too much. So far these are the mods I will have done by summer 2007

Racing Beat Header/Presilencer
Racing Beat Catback
KYB AGX
Eibach Springs
Racing Beat Front and Rear Sway Bars
Racing Beat Sway Bar Endlinks
Powerslot Rotors
Hawk Pads
SS Clutch Line/Brake Lines
K&N Intake
Greddy/Trust Front STrut Bar
NEW OEM Front Differential Mount
Complete Energy Suspension Bushings
Falken Ziex 512 Rubbers

I know the exhaust is what will be giving me a few more ponies? HOw much HP would u get outta this for a s4 na RX-7. I am the third owner, car was automatic, bought it with 76k, own it for 5 years and it now has 84k miles. Engine is strong, and pulls all the way to redline. Only issue is at idle , i have to keep her idling for a few seconds before she can take care of it on her own.

But im big on suspension and braking. A nice clean suspension will help put down/keep that power your producing.

I keep hearing about SAFC (Aif Fuel COntroller). What are the benefits and how difficult is it to set up? Is it that benefical for an FC?

Jason NYC

 

So, my car has 146k original miles.. its an old beast, but it pulls REAL strong still.. Idles only OK, has a little hard time starting hot... I'm thinking a complete vaccum line overhaul would be a good idea. And probably a TPS... but, yeah.. I've been thinking about the rebuild since it does have a whopping 146k.. but.. its still feeling like my last S5 with a rebuild...

However, if I got a rebuild, I'd feel weird bolting a rebuilt/street ported engine up to stock everything else.

 

The big differences in ECUs are the map resolutions and ins/outs and ability to control extra little doohickies. Meaning the smoothness drivability quality and ability to run certain accessories and whatnot
Not to mention the amount and type of bugs the ECU has.
The ability to control timing super accurately is also an issue on some. Especially w/ rotaries having their split timing

Timing and fuel is timing and fuel. Unless you run out of pts to map out the fuel and timing then I don't see how the maximum power is affected.

You should still be able to make similar maximum horsepower to what another standalone should.
Intake manifolds definately help w/ power and proper exhaust systems.


Just looked at your dyno sheet. WOW talk about rocky mtns. Is that because of the rpm resolution or what? That looks nasty


And please don't take what I say as any certain truth. It's just a bunch of node babble and forum regurgitation.
This is why I'm leaving my ECU entirely to the tuner to wireup and fully tune.



Yeah, 200rwhp on a street N/A is not common in the slightest


As for the AFM, the s5 is less of a bottleneck than the s4 flapper type.

Why not try a newer style MAF from a bmw or nissan or vw?
-Ben Martin

 

arghx you proved my point your inexperience of tuning is to blame not the EMS. The EMS is a huge upgrade you did not utilize properly.

However I applaud your efforts of obtaining knowledge.

 

</hijack>
Okay enough of that..

 

can someone explain SAFC, i know you can ajust air/fuel mix along the rpm band. Do you need a laptop? SPecial programs

Jason NYC

 

So far we have one set of dyno sheets showing that a standalone has very little value added for total power on an n/a, and 0 (except a Kahren car) proving that it does actually add more than a negligible amount of hp.

Sorry about the thread hijack. I'll get off my soapbox now.

 

SAFC modifies the AFM signal to trick the ECU into adding or subtracting fuel, it's set using the screen and buttons, no external tuning device is needed.

 

No problem... Just be nice to people.

 

That that many miles you should spend the money on a rebuild and port, but thats just my humble opinion. I fyou go that route i highly suggest an streetport/ aux BP. After 5000 rpms my S5 NA with that port screams and it is on what is essentially a completely stock car. Only thing not stock is a catless exhaust. I just picked up an RB header and presilencer, going to get a y-pipe and muffler extensions then its off the the dyno for a before and after.


BC

 

Where's a good place to get a rebuild nowadays? My last one I got I drove up to Atkins Rotary and got me a street ported rebuild. I think it was 2200 bucks back then. I think the prices have gone up since.

Any other good places? Maybe cheaper? I did like that Atkins motor.

anewconvert: Whats an aux BP?

 

5th and 6th ports are bridge ported. this means that you keep a stock idle because the 5th and 6th ports are closed at idle and only open past 3200 (or 3800, can never remember) rpms. Lets you keep a nice car that can pass emissions, but at 5100 rpms when the VDI kicks in the car screams to redline building power the whole way.

BC

 

Oh.. all you had to say was "bridge port".... My rx7 acronyms are a little rusty.

However, I thought the term bridge port meant that you were bridging the intake ports together... but, I'm probably wrong. Sounds like a good option for a practical car with some bite.

EDIT: Okay, I think I need to hit the writeups again... I think I'm smoking crack.

 

the bridge refers to the metal that is left between the main port and the eye brow to keep the side seal in place.


BC

 

Thats it, I demand a fight! :P

 

micaheli - do alot more research and talk to the builders on here. Meany of them have different opinions and methods. When you decide what fits what you are willing to spend and who you feel is th best send it to them.

 

Pineapple FTW! And your in oregon so its perfect. Hell, you had to drive past them to get to Atkins.

 

Aight.. well.. I used to talk with a guy named "Ryan" over at Pineapple Racing.. and back in "the day" their rebuilds were 2500-3k for a standard rebuild with used housings, and no replaced bearings... If I wanted that, I'd do the rebuild myself. Which is starting to sound like a good option. Its not that hard, just time consuming... Also, Pineapple Racing from what I understand, uses Atkins rebuild kit... I'll give them a call though, their prices may have changed. But if they haven't, a good road trip to washington to chat with the awesome guys at Atkins is hardly asking much. Their rebuilds are 2100... new housings, used bearings (replaced as needed). I have previous experience with Atkins... bought one of these rebuilds on my last seven.. loved it.

Anyways.. I guess I'll go "do a lot more research".

 

I will give you my tip take it or leave it.

New housings complete and full OEM replacement parts. If you want more detailed information or so on pm or call me.

 

Wow..Arghx, you have so much mis-information to spread...

I almost want to applaud you, haha!


Not being able to tune an EMS? Winner!!


How can anyone sit down, and type, that an EMS doesn't improve driveability..without at least cracking a smile at how naive they are? Haha!