2 question , pulsation damper, intake cleaning
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2 question , pulsation damper, intake cleaning
87 N/A automatic here,
Ok I am going ot replace the pulsation damper with a banjo bolt. I already got it. I know you have to depressurize the system and then take out the bolt. My question is this, looking at it, is it nessecary to remove UIM? Me and a buddy were looging at it and saw that it lookst like you can jst remove the white plastic cap and then the pulsation damper. Is this correct?
Second question is , I was looking at the Gum out product for fuelinjected cars, will this do our cars any good to clean out the intake ? I got a custom exhauyst so stock cats are already gone, I replaced it with a high flow Corvette cat.?
Thanks to everyone.
Ok I am going ot replace the pulsation damper with a banjo bolt. I already got it. I know you have to depressurize the system and then take out the bolt. My question is this, looking at it, is it nessecary to remove UIM? Me and a buddy were looging at it and saw that it lookst like you can jst remove the white plastic cap and then the pulsation damper. Is this correct?
Second question is , I was looking at the Gum out product for fuelinjected cars, will this do our cars any good to clean out the intake ? I got a custom exhauyst so stock cats are already gone, I replaced it with a high flow Corvette cat.?
Thanks to everyone.
#2
I'm not sure if you need to replace the dampner in your N/A. I always thought it was only a problem on the TII's. Either way you would need to remove the upper intake manifold to access it.
The corvette cat.... This is not a good idea. Cats for rotarys are designed to take the higher heat that a rotary produces. A cat designed for a piston engine won't last to long.
The corvette cat.... This is not a good idea. Cats for rotarys are designed to take the higher heat that a rotary produces. A cat designed for a piston engine won't last to long.
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It'd be pretty difficult to get the PD off without removing the UIM. Even if you remove the cap on it there is still a lip on the end of the PD where the cap snaps onto, so good luck getting a socket on (wont fit). You'll need to use a wrench, and that wont be happening unless you remove the UIM.
Also, n/a and TII PD's are the same part, they can fail the exact same way, so it doesn't matter if it's a TII or n/a.
Also, n/a and TII PD's are the same part, they can fail the exact same way, so it doesn't matter if it's a TII or n/a.
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I was trying to avoid that having to take the upper intake off. looks like you haveto replace gaskets right. Man that sucks. There are a lot of hoses too.
About the GUMOUt, I was refereing to the Spray and not fuel injector clearner. I was talking about the stuf you can spray in the thorttle body or I guess intake as the car is running. Says it can harm the cats.
I went with a Crovetter cat cause I was guessing it puts out a lot of heat too, more than hondas and such. I only got it so that if i got pulled over I have somthing on there.
About the GUMOUt, I was refereing to the Spray and not fuel injector clearner. I was talking about the stuf you can spray in the thorttle body or I guess intake as the car is running. Says it can harm the cats.
I went with a Crovetter cat cause I was guessing it puts out a lot of heat too, more than hondas and such. I only got it so that if i got pulled over I have somthing on there.
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IF you get a little hitch in the RPM band at light to medium throttle between 3 and 4k after removing the PD.... you'll know why the PD was there!!
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Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
IF you get a little hitch in the RPM band at light to medium throttle between 3 and 4k after removing the PD.... you'll know why the PD was there!!
According to the Mazda training/information manual (can't remember precisely which it was), the Pulsation Dampener is for dampening the noise created by the fuel injectors. As far as that Mazda manual lead me to believe, it was merely for sound reduction and nothing more.
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its not too terribly bad man. the hoses only go where they are supposed to and molded pefectly . also, the best thing to do is to nut un hook the wires for the aorflow meter. a beoken airflow meter will produce a bajillion headaches. anyways, it will be a good idea cus youll most likely find a buncha broken and or **** that will brak the moment something is moved a lil bit. its good to get a gasket, a bango bolt, so injector o rings and bungs, intake manifold cleaner, and rubber vaccume hose. also you might want to raplace the oil metering pump lines. its better to replace and fix everything under there so it wotn be a hassle in the future and require you to do a job you could have done now. trust me buddy.
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Man thats a lot of work. no way to get a socket in there to remove that bolt?
I guess it will have to wait a bit longer till I can get the rest of the parts. I just hope it dont go between now and then.
anyone ever try the GUMOUT spray?
I guess it will have to wait a bit longer till I can get the rest of the parts. I just hope it dont go between now and then.
anyone ever try the GUMOUT spray?
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Originally Posted by dDuB
According to the Mazda training/information manual (can't remember precisely which it was), the Pulsation Dampener is for dampening the noise created by the fuel injectors. As far as that Mazda manual lead me to believe, it was merely for sound reduction and nothing more.
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I don't know what manual you were reading, but the PD is not there for any noise-related purpose. It's there to dampen the pressure waves in the fuel rails caused by the opening and closing of the injectors, which can cause pressure fluctuations at the injectors and hence minor mixture variations.
At least, this is all he found on the subject.
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Ha, using my own info against me!
There's a few things in the FSM that I think get a bit muddled during the translation from Japanese. I've read about PD's in other technical literature plenty of times and I've never once read or heard about injector noise. Maybe the PD does quieten that noise, but that's definitely not the main reason it's there.
There's a few things in the FSM that I think get a bit muddled during the translation from Japanese. I've read about PD's in other technical literature plenty of times and I've never once read or heard about injector noise. Maybe the PD does quieten that noise, but that's definitely not the main reason it's there.
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I asked my autotech teacher about it and he said its basically just for noise reduction. That it may slightly affect pulsations, but it's more the fuel pressure regulator's job to smooth pulsations and keep pressure even. But, he used to work for Mazda, so I expected him to say the same thing.
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I was also told that the pulsation damper was to stop cavitation in the fuel rail. I replaced mine with a banjo bolt and didn't seem to affect anything what so ever.
By the way the ONLY reason I did replace mine was my very first RX-7 sprung a fuel leak at the PD,(had me a little fire ) I've never trusted one since.
Ray
By the way the ONLY reason I did replace mine was my very first RX-7 sprung a fuel leak at the PD,(had me a little fire ) I've never trusted one since.
Ray
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Originally Posted by RXSevenSymphonies
I asked my autotech teacher about it and he said its basically just for noise reduction.
Originally Posted by The Ray
I was also told that the pulsation damper was to stop cavitation...
...my very first RX-7 sprung a fuel leak at the PD,(had me a little fire ) I've never trusted one since.
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AHH YES but...the fuel rail is fed by a pump No really I do agree with your previous post reply.
I would trust a new one but I would feel gun shy about it,granted the problem I had would probabally never happen again (just check to make sure that little screw is tight every now and then)
I would trust a new one but I would feel gun shy about it,granted the problem I had would probabally never happen again (just check to make sure that little screw is tight every now and then)
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
If that were the case then all those who'd eliminated the PD should've noticed extra noise, but I've never heard anyone say that.
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I'm 100% in agreement that the document means noise in the fuel supply. Not audiable noise. Its job is to smooth out the fuel flow. Think of a capacitor for fuel.
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could someon go back to my questions about the PD and GUMOUT?
Has anyone replaced it without changing everything ?
Has anyone used GUMOUT in the intake as a spray?
Has anyone replaced it without changing everything ?
Has anyone used GUMOUT in the intake as a spray?
#20
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well, no. i just sprayed a lil wd40 in everyting and or carb cleaner and electrical contact cleaner in there to get everything all cleaned. its smoked a shitload but after all the crap was burnt off it was ok.
the thing about pulsation dampeners, its all theory. a 15 year old part or a 3 year old part can and will fail. a banjo bolt has never failed. a pd has failed. plain and simple. id rather replace something complx with something simpler and get slightly risky. but the risky factor has increased form about 20% to about .00000001% that means out of the millions of people with banjo bolts inplace of pulsation dampeners, the only one that have experienced failures of the banjo bolt have done crazy fuel related things such as using rising rate regulators or are fitted to extreeme race vehicles.
at anyrate. dont sweat it. infact, doing all this will indeed fix most any problem you have with idle or a vaccume leak.just do it, and do it properly. nothing to lose and everything to gain.also once you get the manifold off, stick some socks in the intak tracts so no **** falls in there. infact, you can probobly reuse the gasket if you can manage to get it off in one peace. infact, i made mine out of a carboard box laying around.
the thing about pulsation dampeners, its all theory. a 15 year old part or a 3 year old part can and will fail. a banjo bolt has never failed. a pd has failed. plain and simple. id rather replace something complx with something simpler and get slightly risky. but the risky factor has increased form about 20% to about .00000001% that means out of the millions of people with banjo bolts inplace of pulsation dampeners, the only one that have experienced failures of the banjo bolt have done crazy fuel related things such as using rising rate regulators or are fitted to extreeme race vehicles.
at anyrate. dont sweat it. infact, doing all this will indeed fix most any problem you have with idle or a vaccume leak.just do it, and do it properly. nothing to lose and everything to gain.also once you get the manifold off, stick some socks in the intak tracts so no **** falls in there. infact, you can probobly reuse the gasket if you can manage to get it off in one peace. infact, i made mine out of a carboard box laying around.
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I am only replacing the PD cause I want to provent a fire from happening.
As for the GUMOUT , I dont have any idling problems. ITs just a bit hesitent to starting. But either way I thought sprying some of that in there while running, would bet rid of any carbon build up.
Do you take the cone filter of when running the car and spray the WD40 or carb cleaner in the intake piping or what did you do?
As for the GUMOUT , I dont have any idling problems. ITs just a bit hesitent to starting. But either way I thought sprying some of that in there while running, would bet rid of any carbon build up.
Do you take the cone filter of when running the car and spray the WD40 or carb cleaner in the intake piping or what did you do?
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There are several documents in the archives that cover the pulsation damper. One deals with how to replace it with a banjo bolt, and another covers the pros and cons of doing so (and launches a great deal into how the damper works and why it is necessary). Anyone unclear on it's function need to read those topics.
As for intake cleaning, there are several products designed to do this. However, since you will be removing the upper intake to get at the pulsation damper, you can get some carb ceaner and a long brush and do it manually.
As for intake cleaning, there are several products designed to do this. However, since you will be removing the upper intake to get at the pulsation damper, you can get some carb ceaner and a long brush and do it manually.